Water-proofing the basement -- tips/recommendations

My basement needs water-proofing.  Terminix tells m “the termites are following the water” into my house and that there’s not much they can do for me unless I address the water problem.  It’s seeping in from the backyard.  I have no idea what’s involved in solving this problem, so I’m afraid that whoever I call for help would take advantage and sell me things I don’t need to have done or do a slack job and I wouldn’t know the difference.  Any tales of experience, tips, or contractor recommendations would be greatly appreciated.  I don’t even know who to call!

Swampmouth

in Cellar 13 years and 9 months ago

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josh_1 | 13 years and 9 months ago

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haiderbk is also known as Mr. Millad. whom dave in bedstuy referred him to come to Brownstoner.com/forum to self promoting his business. Should we ask “Dave In Bedstuy” regarding this issue. or Mr. Brownstoner? Millad your quality of work is garbage. tell your buddy dave to hire you again. we dont need your service.

bk1lnite | 13 years and 9 months ago

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You’re right to be skeptical of the shill postings… bogus semi-literate recommendations for roofing, waterproofing, kitchens, bathroom, mason…Look at all the hits for that phone
http://www.google.com/search?btnG=1&pws=0&q=718-669-8305+site%3Abrownstoner.com
or search on this if the link doesn’t post correctly…
718-669-8305 site:brownstoner.com

brucef | 13 years and 9 months ago

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Forgive my sceptism, but notice that the contractor recommended above  – ctg? was recommended by the same poster as a great roofer to a post a few posts up in answer to a different query.

Hey, I’m great, but I’m not great at everything.

brucef | 13 years and 9 months ago

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Swampmouth,

I would start in your basement trying to locate and understand your main waste line, the 4-5″ cast iron pipe that slopes down towards the street.

If it is exposed (as opposed to buried in the floor), then there should be waste y’s coming into it in the vicinity of the back yard.

If you can confirm this, and also let us know if there is a patio with a drain in your back yard, then we can steer you to a drain cleaner (Roto-Router type) that charge for clearing drains. Their fees aren’t that expensive, and they usually are fairly matter-a-fact.

If none of this corresponds to your reality, you need to get someone experienced in these matters who is NOT going to be the vendor you ultimately choose. There can be no intermingling between a consultant who is paid for their independence and knowledge, and a contractor looking for a job.

Where are you located?

haiderbk | 13 years and 9 months ago

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Bruce has given you great suggestion. I can’t say more than that but I can complete his comment by giving you a good contractor information. Call ctg construction at 718-669-8305.

brucef | 13 years and 9 months ago

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Water from backyard has to go someplace.

During a heavy rainfall, there can be quite a bit of accumulation.

The backyard accumulation can be made worse by roof rainfall adding to the problem.

Apparently the water has chosen a path of least resistance and is travelling to the rear of your basement.

A common historical solution involved a central floor drain in a paved patio that funnelled the rain water into a waste line connected to your main waste line ultimately exiting to the street. It would be important to determine if your home was configured in this common layout.

If it can be determined that this common layout is in fact what you have, then the proper functioing of the pieces must be verified. Oftentimes the rear patio drain is blocked with debris, or needs to be snaked, or has even collapsed and needs to be repaired.

Rain water (and all othe water) follows gravity, seeks its own level, and involves no rocket science.

A cement patio should be impervious, meaning water will run across the surface in whichever direction is downhill.

When seeking to correct unwanted water in the basement, the flow of water must be directed where you desire.

In a more suburban environment, sloping away from a house is usually all that’s needed to move rain water off the roof, down the gutter/downspouts and away from the foundation where there is enough permeable ground to absorb the run-off.

Soil has a variable ability to absorb and retain water depending on its makeup (Clay, loam, etc). Till it reaches its capacity, it does an OK job on absorbing, within its capacity overall and its rate of absorbtion.

Normally your roof gutters should be plumbed into a functioning waste line as described above. Oftentimes the waste line from the patio drain Y’s into the same line as the gutter drain.

If you have no patio drain, then it is feasible to have a fench drain, or drywell. This is an excavated hole filled with gravel designed to absorb a lot of water quickly. Once full, like after a heavy rain, it can absorb additional water ony as fast as it can seep out of the dry well into the surrounding soil.

With a dry well approach, the further from the house the better, and it is still necessary to direct the water to the drywell, and not let it go down hill towards the house.

I hope this primer on back yard water helped. Do not rush into a vendor’s solution. Don’t reinvent the wheel, fix what you have.

Bruce