To Dip or not to Dip? Need tons of wood stripped
We are closing on a gut rehab soon and have pretty much purchased a shell. The only thing left in the entire house for the most part is the original staircase, BUT the owner has kept a full floor of the house which contains all the original moldings, mantels, etc. Ideally we would like to strip all of this wood, although it isn’t painted, and bring it all back to life. It is a 4 story brownstone and i feel like there are miles of this stuff. What do you all suggest to do? I really don’t want to buy new. Should I hire someone to do this work manually day in and day out? I would imagine it would take someone months to do all of this work and cost us a pretty penny. Or should we take all of it to a place that dips the wood and strips it such as Dip and Strip? What is the general consensus here?

stuyheights
in Brownstoner Renovation 10 years and 11 months ago
22
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ParkSlopePS | 10 years and 10 months ago
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The main consideration in deciding about restoring the original wood vs buying new, is that the older wood is most likely from old growth forest, and will have a look and patina that cannot be matched by newer cultivated forest millwork. If that is important to you, then definitely try to keep the original. A further plus to restoring the existing woodwork is the impact on the environment. With existing you won’t add to the landfill/waste stream, nor need to cut more trees. If your woodwork is clear-coated and not painted, it is relatively inexpensive to have it stripped professionally. One priviso- do not have it stripped using caustics, or hot tanked. Cold solvent is much better. www.WeStripWood.com

stuyheights | 10 years and 10 months ago
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yes. this is my point. We haven’t even closed on the house yet. We are closing next week. We are purchasing the house in this condition. As is- in need of a gut rehab. The current owner has removed everything. its neat and looks somewhat organized but not labeled. I personally had nothing to do with removing anything. Just trying to figure out if its worth keeping or starting from scratch. Its a big puzzle.

sethamin | 10 years and 10 months ago
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I hope you labeled which moldings come from where. I made the mistake of not doing that, and it can get very difficult to figure it out after the fact.

stuyheights | 10 years and 10 months ago
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Thanks for the replies everyone. Just to clarify, ALL of the moldings, doors, etc, have all been removed already. Nothing at all is in place, other then subfloors and the original staircase. All of the moldings are neatly organized on one floor of the house. Putting this all back together will be one hell of a puzzle to figure out.

BobMarvin | 10 years and 10 months ago
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I disagree “rh.” While your video editing skills could, as you admit, use some improvement, I learned that there are better stains than the Minwax ones I’ve been using for years. Also, you discuss Howard’s Restore a Finish, which I found out about a few years ago, but wish I had known about much earlier.

Rick | 10 years and 10 months ago
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+ 1 for not removing the woodwork because you will damage it and you will have tons of plaster rebuild work. You are super lucky it wasn’t painted, if it has an original shellac finish it will be very dark brown now but will clean up very easily. I’m convinced people often painted their woodwork because of that low luster brown shellac. It was easier for most to paint than strip. I stripped lots of woodwork in my house. It was painted and was awful difficult work. Under all that paint was pretty cherry woodwork, and that’s what kept me going. If it was “paint grade” wood I never would have bothered removing all that paint. You are in a much better place having unpainted woodwork. Even paint grade wood can be finished with quality stains and finishes making a world of difference. There are plenty of wood stripping services that can strip the woodwork in your house. Make some calls and get some bids.

rh | 10 years and 10 months ago
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Bob Marvin, the video may be hilarious but I’m not sure anyone can actually learn anything from it. Thanks for the plug though! 🙂

metalwork | 10 years and 10 months ago
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Suriesh 1 917 443 0218\. One of the best, when it comes to wood restoration. mention core solutions for a good deal. All the best

presidentstps | 10 years and 10 months ago
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I spent a ton of time and money trying to strip and reuse original baseboards, door and window moldings etc on my renovation. After seeing how damaged they were, I ended up just tossing them all out, taking profiles to Adriatic Wood and they replicated everything perfectly using mahogany (and poplar when painted) for a ton cheaper. Even complicated moldings are usually just several different profiles put together. I wish I had done that from the beginning. . We ended up keeping and refinishing stuff that wasn’t easily replaced, like the stair newel posts, 9ft pocket doors, etc. Everything all looks great now. . Keep in mind that if you use some of the original wood along with new stuff, you will probably want to stain it all a bit darker so you can’t tell the difference.

catboot | 10 years and 10 months ago
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If you decide to just rip it out and replace it with new, can I have the old stuff?

sethamin | 10 years and 10 months ago
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Those square cut nails are a bitch to pull out, too. I ended up cracking some of the casings while trying to get them out all the way. If you go that route (which I still don’t recommend), pull the casing/molding out a little and then cut those nails off with a sawzall.

daveinbedstuy | 10 years and 10 months ago
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sethamin makes a good point. These moldings and casings were installed with large square cut nails and their removal leaves gaping holes that need to be filled and never look right.

cate | 10 years and 10 months ago
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If it’s not painted, you don’t need to strip it. Removing or refreshing varnish and shellac is super easy. Don’t replace this stuff with new — it won’t look as good.

sethamin | 10 years and 11 months ago
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I would advise against trying to remove the moulding and then reinstall it later. It’s difficult to do it without damaging it.

BobMarvin | 10 years and 11 months ago
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BTW, although varnish is considerably harder to remove than shellac, there are effective methods to clean it up, short of full stripping. Try simple cleaning, with something like Murphy’s Oil Soap, possibly followed up by waxing. If something more drastic is needed try a product like “Howard’s Restore a Finish” that partially melts and re-amalgates old varnish and is MUCH easier than stripping and re-finishing. BTW “rh” has a truly hilarious video on her “Reclaimed Home” website about furniture restoration that could partially apply to your woodwork.

rh | 10 years and 11 months ago
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Listen to Catboot and Bob Marvin. If it’s not painted, it doesn’t need to be dipped. It’s not that big of a deal to get some varnish off, especially if you’re lucky enough to find that it’s shellac.

stuyheights | 10 years and 11 months ago
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Hmm. So assuming we try salvaging what we have, whats everyones take on this dipping procedure? Im going to have someone take a look at it in the next couple of weeks when we close but it definitely needs some love. I searched old threads about the best way to go about this but didn’t have much luck. I guess ill get an estimate to see what it would cost to bring this stuff back to life by hand, but i would imagine it would be very time consuming. Something to be said for dropping a truck load of it off at a place that dips and picking it up looking great. Maybe too good to be true though?

slopefarm | 10 years and 11 months ago
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We did not face this problem, as our wood moldings were painted and we had a lot of plaster detail in the LR, so we just went with white trip all around. But i agree that matching old molding at Dykes is difficult. All that stuff looks machine-cut (which it is, of course).

BobMarvin | 10 years and 11 months ago
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If you’re very VERY lucky the original shellack finish on the wood hasn’t been varnished over in which case it can be relatively easily stripped with denatured alcohol. [I wasn’t so lucky].