Boiler problem - runs only intermittantly

I own an old brownstone with a gas fueled steam boiler. The house stays warm enough but I notice when I have been in the cellar (and the heat is on) that the boiler is constantly cycling on and off. I hear it fire up, then I see in the sight glass the water level bouncing up and down. Then it gets lower and the light comes on for the low water sensor and the unit shuts down. The water level then stabilizes and after about a minute the low water light goes off and the boiler damper opens and the boiler fires up again. But it heats only a minute or two before the water gets low and the process repeats itself. It has an automatic fill valve but I rarely hear it add water and I don’t see any leaks. The boiler was installed a little over a year ago and I have called the plumbers back a few times to look at it. First they said there was dirt in the lines and they flushed it out. It seemed to be better for a while but then returned to the frequent cycling. They also said the return lines that run along the cellar floor needed to be replaced to avoid having dirt in the system. I did see that some of them where in bad shape so I agreed to replace them. After doing that work it seemed to be better for a while but the problem returned. They tried flushing the system with a solution but I don’t think it is any better. Since the heat gets to the radiators eventually and the house is staying warm should I be worried about the constant cycling on and off? Is it normal? If not, what can be done to fix it? Thanks for any help!

MDR

in Boiler Repair 10 years and 1 month ago

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MDR | 10 years and 1 month ago

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The plug in the skimming port is more like 1 1/4″, but I cannot get it out. I used a pipe to extend the end of the Stillson wrench to get more leverage and bent the handle of the wrench. Is it possible to instead use the 3/4″ relief valve port temporarily for the skimming? Thanks!

eman134 | 10 years and 1 month ago

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the one on the left without the reset button should be set to 1.5 lbs with a ,5 lb differential

MDR | 10 years and 1 month ago

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Attaching the picture again…

MDR | 10 years and 1 month ago

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Thanks again for the info. I removed the knockout and found the plug there for the skim port. It has a 1 1/2″ diameter plug. I just need to find a socket to go on that big square head to remove it… The boiler has two pressuretrol devices. The one on the left seems to be at 5 psi, the one on the right at 10 psi. Which one should be at 1.5 psi? I took a picture of these – the boiler was not running at the time.

eman134 | 10 years and 1 month ago

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When your plumbers replaced the return, they probably introduced even more oil into the system…skim the fjeezus out of the system

Master Plvmber | 10 years and 1 month ago

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In your bottom picture on the right side of the boiler, the knockout in the jacket for the skim port valve is above the low water cutoff just about even with the relief valve. There is a plug in the boiler behind that knockout that needs to be removed. That’s the skim port. Also, the installer did a nice job with the piping but the pressure setting looks too high. A boiler that size goes in a not-so-large building that can be heated in 1.5 psi or less. You’re wasting fuel if you’re making more pressure than that.

MDR | 10 years and 1 month ago

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Thanks for your input. Master Plvmber, I don’t see a valve 1/3 of the way down. There is one higher that may be an overflow valve and one lower that is less than half way up. Can the skim valve be installed at this point or does it need to be done during initial installation?

Master Plvmber | 10 years and 1 month ago

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This condition is called “short cycling” and is most often caused, in new boilers, by oils used in manufacturing and installation laying on the top of the boiler water creating a barrier that the steam has trouble getting through. A new boiler needs to skimmed. Not flushed. Flushing doesn’t help. All new steam boiler installations must include a skim valve, provided and installed by the installing contractor, not the manufacturer. It should be located on the side of the boiler, about ? of the way down from the top, and it should be valved and plugged or at least capped. It needs to be at the minimum a 1″ fitting. You can’t use the relief valve pipe for this. It’s too small in diameter.

Arkady | 10 years and 1 month ago

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Put in a whole-house filter before the water gets to the boiler. They’re under $100\. at big box stores & are easy to maintain – you change a $16\. filter every couple of months. It helps w/ life expectancy of washer, ice maker, d/w, etc.