I posted a few weeks ago about leaking windows and the problem is, as suggested, that the windows do not have sufficient flashing. Turns out they don’t have ANY flashing (gut reno 3.5 years ago). There is a concrete block wall, then a brick facade with brownstone on the ground floor level only. There is no flashing between the lintel and brickwork. The suggested remediation is to remove about 5 courses of bricks from above the window, remove the lintel, install waterproof membrane, replace lintel and brick. So, my questions:

1) Has anyone done this and if so, how did it look afterward? (I am worried that the facade will look terrible)

2) Does anyone have a recommendation for a company to do this?

3) Any idea on cost?

4) Any alternative suggestions for remediation?

THANKS in advance for any suggestions.


What's Your Take? Leave a Comment

  1. Like Bond was saying you shouldn’t see water coming out. That condition is a bigger issue than just waterproofing at the lintels. If you have a good contractor exterior work like this should look fine. The contractor should be able to carefully remove, retain and reinstall brick with no problems. Work like this should be supervised by Engineers/ Architects. Staging the work, details about the work and what the contractors are doing should be submitted, reviewed and approved before any work is performed. All waterproofing, flashing, end dam details and issues can be resolved is this stage before work starts. If the contractor has no direction from professionals they will just do the work and leave the coming year problems up to the owner and the next contractor. Please make should end dam are installed too. Good Luck.

  2. The front of the house was rebuilt from the 1st floor up with concrete block and then regular brick with a gap inbetween. Windows were put in afterward with insufficient caulking. That’s been redone, but water is still coming in.

    I’ve done a few emergency fixes and have had lots of conflicting recommendations. Kinda need someone to give me an overview of the entire situation and then prioritize the “must fix now” items.

    Structural engineer recommends new roof, lintel remediation at front, sealing bricks at front, thorocoat at back and sides. I haven’t got the budget though.

    Thanks for help.

  3. Here is someone who did similar work for me on a few of my projects:
    Steven Reif
    Landmark Restoration
    (718) 937-5434

    He first opened a few areas up to determine what was the cause of the mositure infiltration. Those projects sound alot like yours, recent renovation and no flashing at the lintels.

    Jock deBoer, AIA
    deBoer Architects

  4. This is a great time to try and figure out what’s going on, the weather is cooperating. Masonry construction should be done with the assumption that some moisture is going to get in between the facade and the block wall, my only concern is that it really shouldn’t involve much water. Even with core vents, or weep holes, you really shouldn’t see water coming out. Is the facade full sized brick, or just facing? My last question would be do you know at what stage of the construction the windows were put in? If they were put in after the brick facing, they probably don’t have nailing flanges around the sides in which case it should be a relatively easy fix.

  5. Bond. No weep holes. I will do the chalk thing. Thanks.

    Jock. There’s nothing wrong with the lintels, other than they are rusty from the water. The problem is that the rain comes in through the brick facade and is not directed out again since there’s no flashing.

    There was also water coming in through the parapet walls, but they’ve been capped with metal and the roof has been flashed again.

    Turns out it was a “cut corners” reno.

  6. Not sure why you need to replace the lintel it the reno was only 3.5 years ago. Have you opened up one to really see if this is the problem and the condition of that lintel?

    Jock deBoer, AIA
    deBoer Architects

  7. I can’t quite picture what you are talking about. Is it possible to post a picture? What you are suggesting sounds very intrusive and I can’t picture it being done without being pretty obvious. Based on what you’re saying, there should be a block wall with a small gap and brick ties spanning that gap and being imbedded in the mortar between the bricks which would be in front of the block wall and then weep holes at the bottom of the brick wall, usually over windows and at the foot of the building.
    I guess my question is how is the water getting onto the block wall?
    I’m assuming that this is the problem based on the fix that has been recomended, that the water is running down between the brick facade and the block wall, ultimately hitting the top of the windows, and then migrating into the house. If there is no flashing, it seems like you could you just remove the windows and install a flashing strip on the underside of the lintel, in a “Z” shape with the “interior” leg pointing up to block any water that backs up and the “exterior” leg point down, acting as a drip edge. Make sure that you have weep holes in the front and then reinstall the windows. I would never recomend this option in wood framing due to rot and mold, but in a masonry situation it shouldn’t be a problem.
    I’m not totally convinced that this is where the problem lays however. Before I did anything, I’d take a piece of chalk and put parallel lines across the brick on the top inside of the window, wait for the next rain/leak situation and see how the lines have been smeared or washed away. This should tell you if the water is coming from in between the walls, or wicking around the corner and being pulled into the house that way, which would be a much easier fix.