Since moving into my brownstone, I have removed this insert in my bedroom fireplace any time I wanted to make a fire. It is tedious removing this cast iron insert. I would just have it removed, but it looks far better than the brick fire box. Any suggestions on an easier way to manage this?


What's Your Take? Leave a Comment

  1. During the standard, pre-purchase inspection of my house, the inspector assured me that it was perfectly safe to burn wood in my fireplaces, including this one. Prior owners had the chimneys relined and had a professional make sure all could be used for wood. The cast iron panel was left as a decorative element, though the vent does work and can be put back in place after a fire is started. I have been burning wood in this fireplace for over two years with no problems. But thank you for your insight.

  2. Do not assume because you can see brick that you can use the fp for wood burning unless the work outlined above has been completed – you are risking a serious fire.

    The cast iron insert is identical to those on my fireplaces. They were gas fired. There was an insert inside that produced flames – somewhat similiar concept to gas logs that you see in restaurant fireplaces. My inserts were gone but the gas valves to turn them on located next to the fireplaces were (are) still there.

    I lined my flues (terra cotta), installed dampers and rebuilt the fireboxes with firebrick. Expensive and messy. The firebox is really too small for a nice wood fire but a Duraflame log with one or two pieces of wood for effect works nicely.

  3. To the helpful posters: thank you. I had never heard the term, “summer cover,” but I think you are correct. The fireplace HAD been changed over to coal decades ago, but prior owners removed the inner workings of the coal fireplace. They left the lovely front. There are no ducts or other components for forced hot air in any of my fireplaces. When I remove the central panel, I have a typical brick fire box for WOOD burning. I guess I will need to have some work done on the brick back so it looks more attractive when the cast iron panel is removed.
    And by the way, I really miss the good old days when brownstoner was not a safe haven for psychopaths.

  4. Just googled and found the following:

    “Summer covers, or summer doors, were originally used as a means of closing off the fireplace and chimney before dampers were invented. The door allows you to seal off the fireplace when a fire is burning down to embers, or when the fireplace is not in use to help prevent heat loss up the chimney.”

    To the What: what was your address on Hancock St? Just curious.

  5. I second the reference for Manny. We got a quote from him for some chimney work and, although we had to put the work off, he seems to know what he’s doing. Struck me as honest. He sells stuff and does the work. He woul dbe a good guy to check out your existing flues to see if you are good to go or need some work.

  6. The cover is suppose to come off for the winter if you have a properly functioning wood-burning firepalce.

    If you want, and I do this sometimes, take the cover off, start the fire and put the cover back on. This assumes your vents can open and air can get in to keep the fire going. If the vents on the cover don’t work, the lack of oxygen will kill the fire. If that is the case, you need to get a screen to cover the firepalce while in use.

    Dave/Architect: I just had 5 fireplaces reopened and relined to be wood-burning. As you state, achitect, the process is extensive. I did find a person who did all of the work you state, which saved me from getting two people in.

    Dave: I know someone who sells mantles, covers, end irons, screens, et al in Brooklyn. His prices are reasonable and he is in Greenwood Heights. His name is Manny Lasalle. I can give you his number if you are interested.

    I hope this helps you, bheights.

  7. You really have to make sure the firebox behind the cover is meant for wood burning. My guess is its not.

    A properly-dimensioned firebox for burning wood is important so that smoke doesn’t fill your house. These proportions need to be deeper than what is traditionally on offer in many brownstones in the nineteenth century (many were for coal .. in my experience early hot air risers for heating were in separate voids in the party wall, not in the chimneys themselves, but anything’s possible).

    In order to make it functioning you would need to
    • reline the chimney, typically with a new stainless flue (this means breaks into the chimney breast at each floor above). This is mandatory.
    • possibly rebuild the chimney outside on the roof, including a flue cap
    • rebuilt the firebox to a dimension that corresponds to the size of the new flue liner (which is probably not going to be more than 8″ ovalized)
    • install a damper
    • reinstall the marble surround, or devise a new treatment (like tile) for the firebrick now showing in the smaller firebox.

    Totally do-able, but not the cheapest work, as it involves the skills of two different trades.

  8. It may be a summer cover, but that may also be an insert for a coal fireplace — this may not be built as a woodburning fireplace. I have a coal fireplace apartment very similar to this.

  9. Sorry to the OP from the collective here. This is a fair enough question and you should get a good answer. As I don’t have any functioning fireplaces I don’t have any info for you. But this post is exactly the kind of thing that this forum is supposed to be for so for your sake I hope you get the info you need and don’t need to be subjected to another episode of What vs Everyone Else!

    Sounds like Dave got you started on the right path though.

1 2