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The Brooklyn Paper has an article this morning about the gentrifying effect of upscale food establishments. The artists might get to a new neighborhood first, say the article, but in recent years, a new cafe or thin crust pizza restaurant is the sure sign that a neighborhood has hit its tipping point. “Food is the new art in the urban cultural experience,” said Sharon Zukin, author of Naked City: The Death and Life of Authentic Urban Culture. “You used to have artists moving in and opening galleries, now there are foodies moving in and opening up cafes.” The examples are legion: K-Dog in Prospect Lefferts Garden, The Farm on Adderly in Ditmas Park, Northeast Kingdom followed by Roberta’s in Bushwick, Saraghina in Bed Stuy. Even Kensington made it only the foodie map recently with the opening of Brancaccio’s Food Shop. Of course, not all pioneering restaurateurs are met with success: Abigail’s proved too pricey for Crown Heights and Bread Stuy’s recents problems have been well publicized. Another other good examples you can think of? Surely the L Cafe in North Williamsburg and Diner in South Williamsburg deserved mention. Others?
Foodies Now Leading the Gentrification of Brooklyn [Brooklyn Paper]


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  1. Oznot’s in Williamsburg preceded them all, I think, but there were other for decent food (Teddy’s for one – not a “foodie” destination, but it always reminded me of places like Walkers or the Ear in Tribeca/south Village area). Likewise, L Cafe was not a “foodie” establishment, but it was a neighborhood place with decent food for the locals and newcomers. (OK – definition time – no one was going TO Williamsburg just to go to Teddy’s or the L.) Another early food destination was Planet Thailand, when it was on Bedford and didn’t suck. People would travel from Manhattan to go there.

    Black Betty was quite a bit later, but was also an early entrant, particularly for that part of the neighborhood.

    Diner was at least the second (if not the third) try at a destination restaurant that location.

    And, of course, we always had Luger’s and Bamonte’s – both brought people TO Williamsburg.

  2. quote:
    rob has never been to most restaurants other than the 7-11.

    see, that’s the definition of an elitist snobbiness from the ghetto. if you want to hit below the belt, then so will i. grrrr 🙂

    also, when high end restaurants hit underserved neighborhoods they tend to get away with being nothing more than mediocre at best.

    *rob*

  3. Funny thing about Jackson Heights. It’s a model of diversification, but has not gentrified in the way were talking about here. My theory is that’s because the building types didn’t attract artists, and those non existent artists didn’t open cafes or restaurants.

    That’s fine, but when I lived there, I really wished there was just one decent diner and/or Dumont-style restaurant where a single person could eat. It was inconvenient.

  4. ” it seems like some people think that by paying more you are a higher class of person and are actually getting more, both of which are patently untrue, but that’s a discussion for a different day i guess.”

    Yes, paying more for tira misu or creme brulee than for some shit is a wrapper at the bodega makes me feel like a higher class person.

    : (

  5. no you’re right, my comment was a little bit blanket and perhaps could come across as not very sensitive, but i think you and everyone knows what i mean when i say that.

    definitely more of a class issue whereas it seems like some people think that by paying more you are a higher class of person and are actually getting more, both of which are patently untrue, but that’s a discussion for a different day i guess.

    *rob*

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