A Greenpoint Feast Fit for a King

Photo by The Porkchop Express

Years ago, Chef Krzysztof Drzewiecki left Nobu’s renowned kitchen to open his own restaurant, one that Polish people would not be ashamed of. On a damp and chilly evening, we found sanctuary at his Greenpoint eatery, Krolewski Jadlo, which translates to King’s Feast. The dining room was humble in size and length. The furnishings of sturdy wooden high back chairs and tables were far from ostentatious, but just the same, I felt as though we were dining in the great hall of a modest palace. The space exuded a certain dignity — long tables were set with delicate china, deep and earthy colors set the tone of the room, and brick walls framed paintings of deceased Polish royalty. This sense of stateliness was also evoked by the proud, solemn, and attentive wait staff.

We shared a banquet for kings that night at a pauper’s price. Every dish was carefully prepared and the ingredients were fresh and of excellent quality. We started with homemade borsht ($2.25) that succeeded at being both light and filling with subtle tomato flavor. The soup course was followed by a sumptuous array of appetizers, starring traditional pierogi ($4.75), warm and chewy pillows of the potato, cheese, mushroom, and cabbage varieties. Bacon wrapped prunes ($4.25), were far superior to the more commonplace scallop-centered bacon bite; and my favorite dish was the royal king’s potato pancakes ($4.75), crisp patties of fried potato goodness topped with herbed crème fraiche and smoked salmon.

Although we were completely full by the time the main course was served, our curiosity spurred us on to partake in the stuffed cabbage rolls ($6), the daily special of slow roasted pork ($8), and tender rolls of chicken stuffed with spinach and walnuts served in an apple vodka sauce ($8). The cabbage rolls were the table’s favorite. They were light, delicate and tasty; a far cry from the bland and limp cabbage rolls we’d sampled at other Polish restaurants. A generous and complimentary offering of savory potato wedges, red cabbage, sweet cucumber salad, and bright beets accompanied our main course.

I’m not a smidge Polish myself, but from my first bite of the king’s potato pancake, I was sure that he’s accomplished his goal to make his fellow countrymen proud. — Mary Cheely

Krolewski Jadlo is located at 694 Manhattan Avenue in Greenpoint, and is open from 12pm to 9pm every day for lunch and dinner. Friday and Saturday evenings the kitchen closes at 10pm.