A Feast for the Eyes at Palo Santo

Tucked into an otherwise residential block of Union Street (between 4th and 5th Avenues), Palo Santo is easy to miss. There’s no sign or bright awning or sidewalk tables — only a glowing, red-glass light near the door would make you look twice at the set-back entrance. A warm front room with a wood-burning fireplace opens up to a bright atrium in the back, with high ceilings, a picture window, and plenty of thick, rustic tables. The restaurant, which bills its food as “eclectic Latin”, has managed to create an ambiance that is exactly that — with requisite burlap sack wall hangings, mismatched dishes, and colorful murals. Chef and owner Jacques Gautier has gone out of the way to infuse the décor with attractive ethnic/artisan touches, but the food suffers from this “eclecticism”, and the result is a mismatched, mediocre Latin experience…

The cactus quesadilla ($7) listed on their menu drew me in for Sunday brunch. Salty, snappy Oaxacan cheese and ample bits of cactus were wrapped in a homemade tortilla and served with red and green chiles, and it was by far the best dish I had. Next to that, a generous plate of French toast ($8) with whipped cream and sautéed peaches respectably held down the other end of the brunch spectrum.

The rest of the menu is a gathering of lackluster sides. The corn chowder ($5) has a lighter, brothier base than the typical coat-your-throat chowder, but despite plenty of fresh corn nibblets and cilantro, was served tepid and lacked any spicy Latin pizzazz. A slice of zucchini banana bread ($2) had plenty of banana flavor, but the crunchy sugar dusting on top was overkill, and the result was more soggy-sweet cake than brunch loaf. Five strips of applewood-smoked bacon ($3) came sliced ridiculously thick — about a quarter-inch wide — and were practically inedible at 90% fat. Seems like the bacon budget went to the applewood chips rather than to a quality cut of pork.

And the coffee… well, it is strongly advised that you grab your morning cup of joe on the walk there; both cups of coffee — the first returned with grounds in it — were unforgivably watery and flavorless. Chef Gautier would be well advised to punch up his brunch with bolder Latin flavors and spices, and for chrissakes, to brew a decent pot of coffee. — Katy A

Palo Santo is located at 652 Union Street, and brunch is served Mondays through Fridays from 7am to 3pm, and Saturdays and Sundays from 10am to 4pm. Dinner is served Wednesday through Sunday from 6pm to 11pm.
Palo Santo [Homepage]
Photo by katypang