The Painter's Corner: Paint Brushes
Ok, you’ve finally chosen your paint for your DIY paint project. That’s just step one. Choosing the right paintbrushes and painting tools are as important as the right paint. This is not when you decide to balance the budget because you bought expensive paint. It really does make a difference what paint brush you use….

Ok, you’ve finally chosen your paint for your DIY paint project. That’s just step one. Choosing the right paintbrushes and painting tools are as important as the right paint. This is not when you decide to balance the budget because you bought expensive paint. It really does make a difference what paint brush you use. A typical room project usually calls for a combination of brush and roller applications. Brushes are used to cut in along the edges, next to ceilings, baseboards, and moldings, where a roller can’t be used. Some surfaces are too small for even the smallest roller, and most importantly, paint needs to be carefully applied to trims, moldings, doors and windows. The idea in all of these situations is to apply the smoothest and least amount of paint to these surfaces, creating a smooth coating that covers the surface well, without drips, lumps or obvious lines. (Decorative effects are a whole other topic) You spent the money on good paint. Why muck it up with a cheap brush? There are three types of bristle brushes on the market, synthetic, natural and a combination of the two. Foam and other kinds of brushes and rollers will be discussed in another column.
Most DIY’ers use water based, that is, latex or acrylic based primers and paints, so the brushes mentioned here are for those paints, specifically. Natural bristle brushes lose their stiffness when softened by the water in acrylic and latex paints, so paint manufacturers and professional painters alike recommend only synthetic brushes for water based paints. Synthetic bristle brushes are made of nylon, polyester or nylon/poly blends. Most of the brushes available are the latter, the nylon/poly blend. Brushes come in varying degrees of softness. A stiffer brush is recommended for cutting in on interior walls. These brushes hold the heavy, thick paints and primers well, and are designed to release it smoothly. For a more enameled and smoother finish on doors and other woodwork, a softer bristle brush is recommended. Brushes come in different sizes and shapes as well. In general, painters recommend a three inch brush for general cutting in and large woodwork areas, and a smaller one and a half inch brush for detail work. Special angled bristle brushes called sash brushes are available and are effective for detailed cutting in around window sashes. A steady hand and a good sash brush can minimize the need to tape windows while painting.
While price is often a good indication of quality, it never hurts to know what to look for in a good brush. Purdy makes some of the best brushes, easily available to the DIY market. Other manufacturers also make good product, so take the time to educate yourself as to a quality product. If you spread the bristles, a good brush will have many split ends, called flags. These hold and distribute the paint. Unlike human hair, the more the better, here. The ferrule is the metal band holding the bristles to the handle. A good brush will have a non-rusting tightly placed ferrule, and will retain its bristles, so tap the brush against a hard surface. If a lot of bristles come off while you are examining it, don’t buy it. There is nothing more frustrating and time consuming than trying to get stray bristles off a painted surface. You should also see if the brush has a good sturdy smooth wooden or plastic handle that is comfortable in your hand.
If taken care of and stored correctly, a quality brush will last for years, and can be used for many projects. Brushes can be stored overnight, or for a few hours, mid-project, by wrapping them in plastic wrap. For long term storage, clean the brush by painting it dry on the wall, and then washing in water, making sure to get all of the wet and dry paint from between the bristles, especially near the ferrule. This is worth the time it takes to do well. Then wash with soapy water. Slap the bristles against your hand to realign them, and shape the brush and let dry naturally. Wrap in a paper towel, and store carefully.
Photo: Hall Co. Paint
The Painter’s Corner: Paint 101, part 1 [Brownstoner]
The Painter’s Corner: Paint 101, part 2 [Brownstoner]
Thank you MM for another great article — Happy year of the Tiger to all.
the finest brush made in America is made right here in Brooklyn. Check this out :
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=GT-SHEBRU.XX&Category_Code=TFB
They are amazing. I have of the synthetic badger hair brushes for water-borne products, but they are still in the prototype stage.
I’ve had the same brushes for years – one set for latex, one for oils and one for shellac (really, one for each solvent type – water, mineral spirits, alcohol). If you clean them well, they’ll last for years, which easily justifies paying more up front. The only disagreement I have with MM is that I leave the brushes to soak overnight, and then shake them out and let them dry.
Also, only use soapy water for water-based paints, not for oil-based or shellacs, etc.
Great post! thanks.
This was suppppppppeeerrr informative
see this is the type of thing Brownstoner.com needs
very cool Montrose
hope to see more of these types of articles
I’m a crazy vegan, so I only use synthetic brushes. That being said, I always manage to get paint in my hair. Perhaps I could invent a human hair paint brush?
Purdy (and better brushes) do make a difference, but I don’t use them with primer because it’s too difficult to clean and the brush is never the same!
*rob* has them practically jumping in the boat today.
Great article (per usual) MM, printed for future reference.
lincoln, i use the cheap brushes and throw them out afterwards, and usually use more than one. but im sure my idea of a stellar paint job is very different than others anyway.
and ew wtf is MILK based painted? can you say coocarachas?
*rob*
rob, any professional painter will surely disagree with you. How long do these cheap brushes last you? i worked for a painter one summer and he gave my brother and I one brush for oil and one for latex and said they had to last us the whole summer. And they did. The quality is much better and it’s actually cheaper to buy an expensive brush. All you need is a wire brush to clean and a spinner.