Tudor Front door restoration

Hey Everyone, hoping Steve at the Tinkers Wagon or anyone els Steve at the Tinkers Wagon e can help or lead me in the right direction! I recently purchased a 1933 Tudor home on Long Island and the front door needs some TLC, looking to refinish, change or replace the weather stripping and also get some new hardware. Please see pictures attached. Best, Joe [3C54B876-13E2-4E35-93D4-2AA4336C723F](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:aghT:3c54b87613e24e3593d42aa4336c723f.jpeg.jpg) [ED392979-768A-4251-AF13-DB8F88F730E4](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:vx4y:ed392979768a4251af13db8f88f730e4.jpeg.jpg) [8AEE274A-4C7A-4101-91EC-860ADD6D1FC0](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:elTH:8aee274a4c7a410191ec860add6d1fc0.jpeg.jpg) [39EB9DD8-49C4-47D1-BB85-2975EFC076C2](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:60AT:39eb9dd849c447d1bb852975efc076c2.jpeg.jpg)

jtemplenyc

in Doors & Windows 3 years and 4 months ago

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justinromeu26 | 3 years and 3 months ago

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So when we use insulated wood strip from randall products (we now make our own) we buy flexible door stop molding in the same profile as the wood strip and put it in the arch.. no insulation value in arch.

justinromeu26 | 3 years and 3 months ago

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So does the old metal weatherstrip still work? It is difficult to replace. The manufacurer of it is still in like rye or mt vernon or new rochelle. We use insulated wood strip but it can not be bent around the gothic arch.

In so far as frame, i am not sure if it oak or not. Even if it is oak, it may have old damage that can not be repaired without great expense. So i would keep it painted but epoxy any splits and reprime/paint.

justinromeu26 | 3 years and 3 months ago

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And this: if you have a baldwin lock body inside that door and want to put another thumb press style handle on there with a knob and rossette and thumb turn for the deadbolt, a new handle should work. A thumb press even one made by another firm. An old corbin which is what i thought that was. You have to setyle on a lock because if you kerp switching baldwin in and out, this will get pricey with no benefit

jtemplenyc | 3 years and 3 months ago

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Ok, what about the weather stripping? And the actual Frame?

justinromeu26 | 3 years and 3 months ago

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I know what is under there: partially decayed and cracked facing. I did write on here to someone else that it is possible to stabilize it a little but if you manage to put some sealer on it, it might help stop it. Add a storm door even better.

My fear is if you remove that plate and begin tugging at that wood, it will all begin to come off and where does it stop?

I have seen some people cut 4″ off the bottom and epoxy new 1/4″ veneer on and finish it to look like the door. I wont do that myself, but you can. If you really push, i will say deliver it to me and i will reface the entire door and stain it darker and varnish it but in truth, i am not sure this is neccessary.

Also, how dark do you with to go with color? A liittle deeper in same orange brown or even a darker brown can be achieved by toning top coats. This is easy when done carefully with the proper tints.

jtemplenyc | 3 years and 3 months ago

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Should I try to remove the strip to see what’s under there? My house is going under construction in a month, I’m really looking to have this work done professionally. I want to change all the hardware on the door and stain or paint the door a darker color. The mortise lock was change when I moved in a few months ago, the hardware on the door is Baldwin and I want to change the look and finish on it.

justinromeu26 | 3 years and 3 months ago

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OP, i have looked at all photos. your finish looks good but a little dull. when marine varnish dulls, it is time to overcoat. please read what i say about overcoating or maintaining wood doors here on my Tinker’s Wagon website: http://www.thetinkerswagon.com/untitled2.html

please be aware that i mention General Finishes on my website. some years ago we discovered that General Finishes Exterior Clearcoat (405? i can’t recall; i threw it in the trash) , when used in exact accordance with the directions fails. we no longer use it nor recommend it. it will last two years in the sun and its life can be extending by overcoating, but it has to be done frequently. Marine varnish which what is probably on your doors can last 3 years in strong sun, maybe more if you really build it; it can be over coated every two or three years and will last indefinitely if so maintained.

so i did mention that someone put that black strip of iron there to hide damage to the wood facing. i would not recommend rebuilding or stripping and refinishing these doors at this time. the issue you have is on the bottom, where the wood wicked moisture up. that is why they put the plate there. ideally, this door would have had a sweep there to stop the water from getting in but it will be hard to put there with the iron there. but there is something you can do: if you over coat those doors with an oil base varnish like epifanes or petit (the west marine in the shopping center where the ace hardware is on long beach road carries these product; also that ace hardware is one of the best hardware stores i have been in) do this: take some varnish. pour about 1/4 cup into a cup and add an equal amount of mineral spirits to that varnish. take a rag and put some of that varnish mix on it and run it on the bottom of the door to seal it. do it when it is dry so it picks up the varnish. you can also do this with linseed oil. if you can do it twice even better. this will slow the damage. if you can stop it and properly maintain this door and can live with that black steel, maybe you never have to do the door over???

if you can raise the steel, perhaps you can put a nice looking wood capped sweep there. we make our own. MD Hardware makes some. Randall Products in Newark might make some.

so tell me about the lock, the hardware looks good. but is the lock “lazy”? i can tell you that a real locksmith can put new springs in to tighten it up a bit but i can also tell you that they make lock bodies work with that thumb press (marks and baldwin make them) and if you are at all handy, you can figure this out yourself. the only issue i see is if you break a part or lose something the local hardware or locksmith may not have it. but this is easy stuff.

feel free to ask more.

the post is by Doorsby writing under a new screen name.

justinromeu26 | 3 years and 4 months ago

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Ok. You have damage under that strip of black metal on the bottom. That is why they put that strip there. The door otherwise looks good, maybe an overcoat. I would delay restoration.

I will look at this in the morning and give you more details. Read about overcoating on my tinkers wagon website.

I am busy in my shop and have to keep at that. People i owe doors to are watching.

jtemplenyc | 3 years and 4 months ago

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Thank you

jtemplenyc | 3 years and 4 months ago

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[E49B2E2F-2387-4E6B-904F-25C542E2C6A5](//muut.com/u/brownstoner/s3/:brownstoner:liAM:e49b2e2f23874e6b904f25c542e2c6a5.jpeg.jpg)

justinromeu26 | 3 years and 4 months ago

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Op, you have a beautiful door and i will get to this later or over the weekend. See if you can get us a picture of it taken straight at it, closed.

Tudor Front door restoration

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Tudor Front door restoration

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