found cut joists when we started bathroom remodel

http://cdn.brownstoner.com/4e25b4f786543-.jpg

We start just started what we thought would be a pretty straight forward bathroom remodeling on the parlour floor of an 18′ wide 1890s brownstone (i know, i know) to discover that the installers of the previous bathroom had made major cuts in several joists to run plumbing. See photo. We have decided all existing pipes should be removed and new pipes installed _**below**_ the joists.

We are now faced with several choices:

1) screw 3/4 ply over the top of the whole mess and say “hey it worked for the past 50 years, why not the next 50?”

2) sister existing joists with LVL or 2×8 lumber

3) sister joists plus install support beam over 16 ‘ span running perpendicular to damaged joist in ceiling below, in which case we need help calculating beam needed to support floor above and bathroom (no load from top floor) with the least penetration into room below.

Any ideas???
Anyone know an engineer who could help?
THANKS

ojonyc

in Brownstoner Renovation 13 years and 10 months ago

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eman134 | 13 years and 10 months ago

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maybe it is the vent fron the toilet

eman134 | 13 years and 10 months ago

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but replace all the water supply with copper ..looks like black now…also , why does the drain pitch up?

eman134 | 13 years and 10 months ago

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those are joists, not beams…zero load a bit of metal track across the cut and all is okay

shahnandersen

in Brownstoner Renovation 13 years and 10 months ago

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Never leave a plumber unattended to install something. They will destroy your home.

dancingclown | 13 years and 10 months ago

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also, you can’t use PVC piping in NYC. has to be all copper, i believe.

edifice-rex | 13 years and 10 months ago

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PS the sistered joists do not have to be full length but it wold not hurt if they were

edifice-rex | 13 years and 10 months ago

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If the notches are very close to the bearing wall and are notched on top it is a fairly easy repair because most of the load is in shear. You don’t need a full joist and the top of the joist is in compression so it is much easier than if the bottom was notched, especially near the center of a joist.
So fill the notch with solid wood and polyurethane construction adhesive then sister each side with a full depth, 2×8 or 10 with adhesive, nail every 6″ with 16d nails then 3/4″ SHEATHING, not UL plywood, subfloor on topwith adhesive and all will be well

CGmodern | 13 years and 10 months ago

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welcome to the club. butchers/plumbers cut out a major support joist….we had to throw in a column underneath…lucklily we could hide it in the wall during the reno.

daveinbedstuy | 13 years and 10 months ago

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What a mess!!! Typical plumbers handiwork.

Sister the joists. LVL will work.

pigthree | 13 years and 10 months ago

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Hi,

Found the same in my house. Replace six joists with similar size salvaged joists from NY timber.

Engineering charts are available on line for new and old timber. Most old homes in this area used Fir for floor and ceiling joists.

I would say not to go with option One. But you do not necessarily need an engineer and definitely do not need an architect.

found cut joists when we started bathroom remodel

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found cut joists when we started bathroom remodel

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