Custom Desks
I’m looking for a custom made computer desk. Really simple, a rectangular 67 x 20″ desk that is to be mounted in a wall pocket – i.e. attached on sides and back to “float” in the wall pocket. Would like the finish to be white laminated plywood with exposed plywood edge. As this is a…
I’m looking for a custom made computer desk. Really simple, a rectangular 67 x 20″ desk that is to be mounted in a wall pocket – i.e. attached on sides and back to “float” in the wall pocket.
Would like the finish to be white laminated plywood with exposed plywood edge. As this is a simple cut I’m looking for either a woodworking shop who would be willing to make this desk or a store that may sell pre-laminated plywood so that I can cut myself. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
use a nice piece of baltic birch, 1+inches thick-the edges look great, consider no laminate, just 2-3 coats of poly. Easy to clean, looks better.
use a nice piece of baltic birch, 1+inches thick-the edges look great, consider no laminate, just 2-3 coats of poly. Easy to clean, looks better.
you can go to any lumber yard and order a custom length counter top. Counters at 25″ deep run about $28, maybe $30 per running foot. I suppose 20″ deep might be a tad less?
once you have the counter though, you still have to support the underside with a piece of angle iron. I bought a piece 1.5×1.5x 6′ at HD and drilled holes in it every 6″ and screwed it to the counter with #10 pan head sheet metal screws 1.25″ long. Now, as I write this, I just thought of the downside to ordering a counter from a lumber yard and doing this; they will make the counter out of particle board and the screws holding the iron in will pull out.
I am not sure what to say. I don’t really make counters; I make them for my own jobs when a custom counter is needed and as you can see, I go through a lot to be sure it is done right. Maybe a lumber yard will order one made up of birch ply for a little more. Call Dykes and ask them. I could not really make one for the price the yards get and make any money on it (the sheet of laminate alone is 80.00; the plywood another 50.00)
Steve
http://www.thetinkerswagon.com
Thank you so much for a very detailed explanation. I think my tools (and more so my skills) would be limited to cutting something that is already laminated. So I’m looking for a place that could either do this for me or sell pre-laminated. Or even a desk of the finish that I want and just remove the legs and cut it up…
I just looked at your proposed dimensions. 1.5″ of birch will not span 67″ without sag. I made a counter span that lenght last summer by screwing a piece of angle iron to the bottom of it.
Steve
this is quite easy, but I think you have anticipated the most difficult part of the project; laminating formica to the plywood.
By virtue of the fact that you are thinking of doing this on your own, it sounds like you have some tools and skills, so maybe an inexpensive router to your collection and a laminate bit would serve you well? That’s all you need to cut the laminate after it is bonded to the plywood.
If I were going to do this, I would, at minimum, double up two pieces iof 3/4 inch birch; you will need that for the support (and you may need more or a cleat underneath). Before doing that though, use the bottom layer of birch as a template and fit it to the space; the walls may not be square to one another. Once you have the rough shape with the bottom piece, you can cut the top; that should fit snug. Then take these and using glue and screws, put them together. I would use 1.25″ number 8 screws; maybe no. 10. Put plenty of yellow glue on the plywood, spreading it with a brush and put the two pieces of wood together; the best side of the top peice of plywood should be on top to recieve the laminate. Drill pilot holes and make counter sinks for the screws by drilling the start of each hole with a larger bit. Start placing screws in the middle of the wood, from the bottom, working toward the edges one direction at a time; this will pull the wood tight, leaving no bows. On a 2×3 piece of wood, I would expect to use about 20 screws, starting with a cross in the middle; I know this sounds like overkill, but is will help stiffen the intended counter.
Finish the plywood edge prior to applying the laminate.
Once made and set up, you can laminate the top. It is really quite easy. This will probably be a fairly small piece, so you can cut the laminate down to a manageable size, say 25% larger than your project requires. Use sharp circular saw to cut it. The laminate will chip a little nearest the cut line, that’s ok. You can also cover the cut line with masking tape which will hold the chipping at bay.
Place contact cement on both pieces of the project (I use a small 1/4″ nap roller) and let it dry (follow the directions on the can). Once dry, set the laminate down the birch, middle first; place it right he first time (which is why we oversize; room for error) because it will grab right away. press it good. (on larger projects, we set dowels on the dry glue and position the laminate on the dowels and pull them out one at a time, allowing the laminate to grab).
Ok, once the laminate is on the plywood, it is ready to be trimmed. Put your bit in the router and set it high. The bearing should be just formica – but you have check that yourself – if it is too low, you will cut too much laminate off. When cutting, set the router down on an edge, preferably one closer to the wood, and cut in until the bearing hits the wood. when it does, move slowly, clockwise around the project. Be sure to keep the base of the router flat on the project. Maybe you can make up a practice piece with some scrap wood and laminate – you will have a lot more confidence if you do.
Do you think this sounds difficult? It’s not. When I was first getting into woodworking in a serious, professional way in the 1990’s, I was working on my own in an apt in Manhattan. I had to make a counter. I had all of the materials and the tools spread out in front of me and needed some reassurance. I had a mentor who I called and he talked me through it by telling me what I just shared with you. With no practice piece, I cut that counter; it is still being used today.
Once you have your counter, you can support it with wood cleats as the post above suggests.
good luck,
steve
http://www.thetinkerswagon.com
Would securing one side of the desk in a wallpocket, or niche be strong enough without some sort of brackets on the underside?
Have you considered going to the Home Depot and having them cut down a piece of birch plywood? That and a couple of furring strips for ledgers secured to the three sides of the niche, and you’ve got yourself a desk.