I was trying to repair the locking clips on the lower sash of one of my 1985-era aluminum frame double pane storm windows, when I stepped away for a few tools, and it fell into the room and the glass crashed into a million tiny pieces. So, I am trying to find a temporary (read: 2 years) replacement.

I think these old drafty type windows are removed by people replacing them all the time and are put to the curb. So, strangely, they seem difficult to find because I guess no one thinks that anyone wants them.

My lower sash is 2 1/2′ X 3 1/2′ (30″ W X 42″ H). I can find no brand name on them anywhere.

Does anyone have one of these or am I searching for a needle in a haystack?

(I am planning a brick-to-brick replacement in a few years and so, in the meantime, I have to make these anachronisms work.)

Thanks, everybody.


What's Your Take? Leave a Comment

  1. Bob Marvin, thank you for you input. The windows are actually pretty good for aluminum replacements, so you might be right. I would be very interested to have your repair person’s contact info, if I decide to go that route. I am sewardwasright {at}gmail{dot}com. Thanks again.

  2. That window looks very much like the Marjo windows I had installed in the mid-70s. They were about the best aluminum windows you could buy back then and might well be worth fixing. Our window repair guy says they were high quality, but far more expensive than the competition.

    Ours have held up very well, requiring only a few balance replacements. If I weren’t away from home now I’d give you our repair person’s contact info.

  3. Got it. Thanks, Minard Lafever. I did not know that about weeps and old buildings. I figured they were relatively new to houses because I only saw them mentioned in replacement windows from the 60s/70s onward.

    In my windows, there is an opening in addition to the weep that is about an inch in length – it appears to be where the cap/flashing was supposed to connect to keep water from going into the cavity, but they were not connected there. This is where the water goes, if the weep is plugged with dust or accumulated dirt – but it still guides water down into the space I mentioned above. So, I wouldn’t be plugging that opening up totally, just placing a line of caulk there to guide water away.

  4. You know the use of weeps in old buildings is somewhat controversial as they were invented for use in new construction where there is a cavity, or air space between the exterior masonry ans the back up masonry. Whether they work at all in solid masonry walls is a question. Whether they work at window casings is another debate. Traditionally the brick molding was just not that tight so the assembly dried out naturally and water took the course of least resistance -out. With tight caulks one sometimes traps the water traveling down the wall from wherever. that’s not a good thing. you want the window to be tight but not too air tight.
    bottom line: In an old building everything has to breathe a bit.

  5. Minard Lafever, I love weeps. But the windows that were installed have them at the horizontal ends of the sill and so drips water right into the opening between the internal and external walls. (And I was wondering why my stools and frames were in such bad condition!) So, those manufacturer’s weeps get completely filled. And Mr. Drill or Mr. File will make their entrance.

  6. What is a glazing unit, BrooklynButler? I still have the aluminum frame – would they come out and place a new set of glass in it – or should I bring the frame to them?