Floor Tiling Contractors
We’re going to be re-doing our kitchen early next year. I’m avoiding any water/gas/electricity relocations and plan on assembling the Ikea cabinets myself and probably installing the wall cabinets myself as well. I will need a contractor to remove the existing floor tile, install new tile (including sub-base) and install the base cabinets, countertop and…
We’re going to be re-doing our kitchen early next year. I’m avoiding any water/gas/electricity relocations and plan on assembling the Ikea cabinets myself and probably installing the wall cabinets myself as well. I will need a contractor to remove the existing floor tile, install new tile (including sub-base) and install the base cabinets, countertop and undermount sink (time constraints). Of this contractor scope, I’m most concerned about the floor tiling. I want to use a contractor who has the fullest understanding of what is necessary to provide a solid and durable sub-base over a wood floor in a brownstone that will forestall any problems with settlement and cracking tiles. If anyone has recommendations based on personal experience and longevity of this particular aspect of the work, I’d much appreciate hearing them. Adverse experiences of floor tiling work by contractors are also welcome so that I know who to avoid. I’m not interested in recommendations based on tiles being installed over a concrete framed floor.
Many thanks,
John Ife
We’ve never had success with sisters smaller than 2X6’s, usually 2X8’s. Depending on the slope of the floor, you run out of width. We really like full length sisters, for instance our last job we used 16 footers.
We attach the sisters with a framing nailer once we have them where we want, but then we through bolt with 3/8″ carriage bolts evry 4′.
Utilize toungue and groove 3/4″ plywood, and be picky about the batch.
Use Hardibacker 1/2″ that is available in 4X8 sheets from Kamco. (Home Depot only has 3X5’s). It is critical that the correct green or gray screws are used, not through the plywood where there are joists. It floats on the bed of thinset beneath the backer board.
We also utilize Laticrete epoxy grout in all kitchens. It is pain to work with, which is why most contractors won’t use it. check http://www.johnbridge.com/ It is rock hard and won’t absorb spills.
Further questions you can contact us off line bruce at jerseydata.net
cut out the existing floor…level or flatten the area by sistering 2x4s or 2x6s to the joists (all brownstones sag to some degree)…glue and screw a layer of 3/4 plywood to the sistered joists…glue and screw 5/8 wonderboard over the plywood..tape all joints with thinset and fiberglass meshtape…tile with thinset mixed with latex bonding additive or latepoxy, depending on the tile..good luck, no cracks in 15 years