Ok, I promised I would post an image of the back of my cast iron sink for help in how to mount it. See pic and any advice would be helpful.

Thanks


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  1. You can try this steps maybe it can help you I got this steps from my friend from plumber geelong.

    1.Place clear silicone caulk underneath the lip of the sink.

    2.Place another strip of clear silicone caulk around the opening for the sink.

    3.Gently set the cast iron sink in place. Make sure it is in straight.

    4.You could use phone books to provide some extra weight. This will help make sure the silicone caulk is completely sealing the sink and the countertop.

    5.Wait at least one day to make sure the caulk has set.

    6.Install the final plumbing connections. This will include waste piping and water piping, as well as the drain.
    7.Follow the directions carefully when you are ready to install the faucet. Each faucet has a different set of directions.
    8.Turn the water on and be sure nothing is leaking.

  2. Where could one go to find a nice sink like this for a reasonable price other than getting lucky like the OP got.

  3. Concrete block won’t be a problem. You could probably get away with tap-cons. You could even set the tap-cons at a slight angle, pointing down, so the weight on the ledger will end up being pushed back towards the wall. If you use lag bolts, you’re going to want to use lead shields and I never had much luck with them, they always end up spinning out on me, and frustrating the heck out of me. Either way, I’d try to set the anchors in the ribs, or inside connectors of the block, you can usually see where they are by looking at the top row of blocks. Probably overkill, but why not play it safe?

  4. the sinks not new by any means. i bought it for $75 from an old woman wanting it out of her house.

    i got everything bond and eman said but I’ll be mounting it into my basement wall. concrete block. will that be a problem? i figure a few lag bolts would do the trick.

    thanks again for the advice.

  5. The four little half moon shapes that you see on the back top lip are what sits on a cleat. Once it’s in place, you won’t have a tremendous amount of weight pulling forward, most of it will all be going down. I’d figure out exactly what height I wanted the top to be, then rip a piece of plywood as wide as you can go without getting in the way of the faucets connectors (looks like maybe 5 or 6 inches) cut a slight chamfer on the top of the plywood, and mount the plywood onto the wall, level, a half inch or so below the final height of the sink (Put the plywood in place against the back of the sink with the sink on the floor, so you’ll know exactly how much lower to put it). Make sure you screw into as many studs as you can, MINIMUM of two!!!, 2 screws per stud. Use plywood, you need the strength of the cross grain layers so it doesn’t split, not wood, and def. not MDF, OSB or anything along those lines. Then cut a 2×4 to prop up the underneath until you can find the right sized leg, which is going to be the most difficult part of the whole process. If you don’t really care about the height, buy the leg first and then mount the sink to fit the height of the leg. You could probably get away with one leg, many of the older sinks only had one, assuming it was relatively centered, but two would be better.

  6. these sinks usually come with a cast iron or steel cleat to firmly anchor to the wall and catch the nubs on the back of the sink, and usually a set of legs attaching midsection or front..the sink looks new , what happened to the parts?

  7. You need to mount a ledger board across the rear on the wall and you need legs in the front or legs in front & rear.