Help Building Planters
I’ve decided to tackle building several planters for my roof deck. In a perfect world they’d end up looking like those in the picture above, but we’ll see… I’d like to do this as inexpensively as possible. They don’t have to last forever, but I’d like them to look good for at least several years….
I’ve decided to tackle building several planters for my roof deck. In a perfect world they’d end up looking like those in the picture above, but we’ll see…
I’d like to do this as inexpensively as possible. They don’t have to last forever, but I’d like them to look good for at least several years.
Does anyone know what type of wood and/or treatment was used in the picture above? Any advice on cheap alternatives (preferably not treated – I don’t like that look)? Any leads on lumber suppliers near Park Slope would be great too. Thanks!
Try http://www.sketchandhammer.com and view their planters.
I’ve used wolmanized 2’x12’s – stained them (black in my case) with rigid foam bottoms, set on neoprene blocks. You can stack them for higher planters. Just be sure to use corner braces and L shaped mending plates on the top corners – keeps the boxes from expanding and splitting at the seams. Punch some holes in the foam for drainage and the bottoms will be light and never rot.
Those are Ipe planters. They will weigh a ton. Before you decide to DIY, contact Liberty Sunset with dimensions and see what they would quote both lined and unlined. You may find that their prices are better than if you get the lumber and try yourself. They do contracting and build a lot of planters. Planter projects eat up a lot of linear feet, you’ll be surprised. Ipe is hard to work with, an incredibly dense wood. And the splinters can be incredibly dangerous. Cedar is more lightweight and is very longlasting. Depending on the wood graed it can be a fairly economical choice (but higher grade cedar can be incredibly expensive).
Just to give you some idea of cost, as of last week, 1×6 stk (sound, tight knots) cedar at Dykes was 1.10 a linear foot. Clear was 2.75 and Ipe was high three, I forget the exact amount, but they’ll be happy to quote you if you give them a call. Cedar was in stock, Ipe was backordered, and it wasn’t certified, so it’s probably clear cut from a rain forest somewhere, but more and more evidence is popping up that even the certified is not being harvested as claimed. I remember reading an article, I think it was in Fine Woodworking where they estimated that for one particular plantation to produce all the wood that they submitted for certification, the plantation would have to be 12 times the size that it is. FSC and others are trying to tighten things up, but in a lot of countries a bribe goes a long way. For that reason, I personally try to stay away from the exotics if possible. As Grand Army points out, you probably want to use stainless steel fasteners for everything as well, unless you don’t care about black streaks. Might seem petty, but it can add significant cost to a project. A five pound box of stainless steel trim screws was over 95 dollars at Dykes. Good luck, and my two cents is to jump in and do it. I’ve learned most of what I know from my screwups and I’m still learning everyday. I look at it like taking a class now. I’ve taking classes where I forget everything that was taught, but screw up on a project and it really sticks with you!
I repeat chrismac’s point. Make sure your roof can handle the load. Nothing worse than roof leaks!!
You can buy ipe at Modern Way Lumber, 85 4th Ave @ St Marks Place (718-622-3982). Be warned, it’s so hard you have to pre-drill before screwing with stainless steel screws. Also many people are allergic to ipe dust (which you can’t avoid creating when you cut).
These planters are actually probably Ipe- it is the wood of choice these days in these projects. I often tell people to spend the extra 10% and forego the cedar- which really doesn’t cut it for me.
However, that said. I will tell you how they are built:
You build a pressure treated (PT) frame out of regular 2×4’s in the shape that you want the planters. You then either build a box around them out of marine ply and clad with Ipe/ cedar OR you line the frame with DowBoard and fasten your cladding directly onto the frame. The Dowboard can also be used as your bottom layer as long as your PT frame is correctly built. Just add the drain holes!
I am a landscape design/ builder, but I don’t mind sharing info with those who DIY.
And if you really need to be economical, you can also use a 1×6 PT wood for your cladding and just stain and seal it. It will last long enough…
Post again if you want any more info and I’ll give you my email address.
The greenish stuff is that way because it’s freshly pressurized. You got to get stuff that’s no longer “wet.” It’s hard to find, especially in the city. many more options at a rural lumber yard, including really nice selections of cedar.
Cedar, though “soft” is the most impervious to water damage before you get to things like teak, mahoganies, etc. And a lot cheaper. It’lll lats 10-15 years easily.
DIBS: The only pressure treated stuff I’ve seen has a nasty greenish hue. Is there something else out there that will take a stain?