Good Cheap Floor?
We just moved and under the wall to wall and two layers of linoleum was this creaky plank subfloor. I know some people like these, but I really am not a big fan. We painted it white and it’s not terrible. But it is creaky. Also noise carries between the floors. (we live in garden…
We just moved and under the wall to wall and two layers of linoleum was this creaky plank subfloor. I know some people like these, but I really am not a big fan. We painted it white and it’s not terrible. But it is creaky. Also noise carries between the floors. (we live in garden duplex) I’d been fantasizing about a herringbone wood floor, but we just found out we need to re-point our back wall which will cost thousands, so floor is now a low/no-budget item.
My question: with a semi-handy husband (he knows more about engines than carpentry, but can lump along) and a father-in-law who knows a bit more, can they lay a reasonable wood floor for maybe $1,000 of materials?
…I really don’t care that much if it’s perfectly level. Just want something a bit quieter and more stable underfoot. I’m happy with the painted look, or wood, whatever.
My other thought is masonite, just for a year or two, until we can save up some and afford something a bit nicer. or is this just stupid?
Advice? Tips? Places to go for materials?
many thanks
I’m like you slopegirl when it comes to exposed subfloors. Squeaky and loud floors drive me nuts as well.
Since you are so close to the studs and have the opportunity to make it quiet and solid i’d take that opportunity. Quiet floors don’t feel quite as cheap when you’re walking on them. If its not a basement underneath, take up the subloor (you can save for re-use), expose the joists. Fill with dense rockwool insulation, and line the joists with strips of mass loaded vinyl (cut and glue strips, minimizing the amount of MVL needed). Screw subfloor back down, voila. Well, its a lot of work but with the quiet(er) floors you will probably be quite happy.
Then save up for the wood of your dreams.
This is not an acceptable, stable subfloor to lay any sort of permanent flooring on top of. To do the job correctly, you are probably going to have to lay a new 3/4″ plywood subloor,,,either on top of this if it is satisfactory (can’t tell without seeing the whole floor) or rip this up and lay it on the joists.
Your best bet would be to look for a “floating floor”. This term refers to manufactured wood flooring. Try to find a version that “clicks” or “snap” together. No nailing or glue is needed and it just “floats” on the sound-dampening layer. You may be able to find a some deals of smaller lot material at Lumber Liquidators. Also Ikea sells versions of flooring that are good to medium to cheaper. Lay a sound-dampening layer on the existing floor and tape the sides together. Always put the plastic side up. You don’t have to tape it to the floor. To get rid of the creaking noise you will have to use a bunch of drywall screws and fastern the existing plank flooring to the joists anywhere you hear a creak. You will need a chop saw and a jigsaw.
Installing 3/4 is a pain until you get the details right. Definitely get an air-hammer; the hand ones take a lot of getting used to. Get pre finished unless you also want the hassle of sanding and finishing.
Don;t think parquet would work on such an uneven surface?
You’ll have to address the creaks before you do the floor or it will still creak.
If it’s above the basement, it shouldn’t be too hard to fix the creaks from underneath. Don’t do masonite – it flakes & also doesn’t do well w/ spills. That lumber place near Lowe’s is a good idea.
Maybe you should have a flooring guy come over and check it out, to find out if there’s something srong with the joists, or what, how to fix it, and what it will cost.
you could swing that for around $1,000. i agree with cggirl, lumber liquidators is a good place to start.
A new floor won’t stop much, if any, of the creaking, unless you completely replace the sub-floor or have access to the underside of this floor from below. (Well, if your husband is doing labor he could pull this subflooring out a re-install with screws and glue to keep it from loosening).
Herringbone is a lot harder to install than regular solid wood flooring.
Instead of throwing 1K away on something temporary – why not start by fixing the subfloors and its creaks. Then start a nice 4 or 6 board wood boarder and infill with a cheap Home Depot carpet – when you have the money, energy later – you can tear out the carpet and install the herringbone in the field.
Drew Stuart
Incorporated Architecture & Design
http://www.incorporatedny.com/
we have about 700 sq. feet