Hi,

I have spoken to 5 architects and have 5 different per sq/ft prices on a gut renovation, ranging from 100/sq ft to 300/sq ft or $350K to $700K

First, would appreciate recommendations on an architect who is creative, modern (there are no details left on this house), experienced, reasonably priced and who knows how to work within a tight budget, while still putting one or two standout aesthetics into the plan. I realize you get what you pay for but with a limited budget can’t afford a pricey architect, but would love some creative design.

Second, would appreciate any comments on the approximate price of this 3 family gut reno

-4 Storeys 19×45 + potential half storey bulkhead on top.
-Everything stripped down to the joists and beams.
-All new floors, heating, plumbing, hvac, electricals and roof
-3 kitchens, 5 bathrooms
-new windows and some pointing on facade to fix potential leaks
-cement in backyard needs to be dug out
-stairs are fine

Also any advice on the large cost drivers vs smaller ones, would be helpful.
Thanks


Comments

  1. Try AGPE PLLC they are an Design and Build company that will give u a thoro walk thru of all the construction procedures necessary ……and the have their own staff of designers on board….talk to John @ 3477873338….
    the most important thing is that they do not take on alot of projects like these other companies…..

  2. We are a small firm located in Manhattan and would be very interested to talk to you about your project. We’re not put-off by your scope of work or projected budget. you can see some examples of our work in our firm profile on architizer.com. If you’re interested, please contact us at the numbers below.

    Thanks,

    Tony

    LAFAZIA Architecture, PC
    141 East 89th Street
    New York, NY 10128
    212-831-4199
    lafaziaarch@aol.com

  3. The biggest cost driver will be the extent of your work. If you are going to go for something simple, addressing structural issues, waterproofing, basic utilities, etc., then the cost will be lower than if you want to do something that is complete – soup to nuts. If you are OK with finishing the house on your own over a number of years, and living with landlord quality fixtures and finishes for a while, you will pay less for your renovation.

    After that, to keep costs low, keep the plumbing stacked up (bathrooms go on top of one another, and above the kitchen,) and leave the stairs where they are. Don’t try to raise the roof or build any extensions. Commit to living with radiant heat, and consider seriously whether you really need or want central air conditioning. Of course a lot of that is pennywise and dollar foolish over the long term, but if you are interested only in your initial out of pocket costs, cheap is the way to go. It is the Brooklyn way.

    Raphael9 is right on about the price you will pay if your architect is not with you 100%. Good luck!

  4. We did a 5 story house, 7 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, down to the joists, new floors, electric, plumbing, hvac, roof, windows etc. There is no cheap way to do this work. raphael9 is absolutely correct and I think his range is right on target. We did it nicely, so it was considerably more, although we ran a tight job and looked at every single number more than once. In the end it came down to things like, what is the right way to do HVAC, what type of kitchens are good for resale. We wanted to watch costs but also maximize value. Do you want cheap windows? Probably not. Bathrooms are labor intensive jobs – there is no way around those things. Anyone who told you $100.00 a square foot is flat-out lying to you. You will end up spending close to $300.00 if you do it right. Labor has not gone down that much, if at all, and it is still your biggest cost here. I would get 3 contractors to look at the job and bid, then I would chose one but used the comps from the other two to get a grip on what the big numbers, plumbing, electric, etc mean and how you can save in those categories. For example, 3 contractor priced my HVAC at close to $85,000, so I hired my own sub and brought the cost down considerably, albeit not without a few headaches. Good luck

  5. Hold on a minute – do I hear this right? you are planning to spend half a million $ give or take gutting a 4 story house and replacing all the subsystems, yet you say you are on a tight budget and want a cheap architect who is also good and creative. Nobody doing work on a project with a scope of work like you are describing is going to take you seriously when you say you have a tight budget because the scope belies it. Perhaps the biggest cost drivers of a project are not getting an architect who is 100% involved with the project and paid to direct it on your behalf, and a contractor who tells the client what they want to hear to get the job, knowing that once the house is open the client will have no choice but to spend what it takes to complete. What you described – without surprises, is easily 700 – 900, don’t let anybody tell you different, and if they do ask to see a comparable job completed recently with a similar scope. For instance, you describe ~100k in plumbing and hvac alone depending on fixtures and how many zones on the hvac. Has anyone put a per square foot number on just the demolition, for instance?

    So, exactly what do you consider a limited budget?

  6. Have you seen any previous work and spoken to the clients from the architects bidding on the job? Did they bid those jobs accurately? Do you like the work they did? I think that is the best way to judge their ability to do your job and the accuracy of their estimates.

  7. Architects are not the best source of ballpark reno guestimates. Nor are we. If enough brownstoners respond, you’ll get the same range. But nothing good comes from planning based on a lowball assumption.

    Are you trying to get a ballpark before buying? Then err on the high side so you have room for surprises. But if you are actually getting ready to do work, then bring a couple of contractors through and get their take.