Beadboard Question
I plan on installing a beadboard ceiling in my kitchen. We are planning to use pine 3″ tongue and groove boards. Dykes sells these in long lengths, up to 12′ I think. However, my kitchen is long and skinny like a bowling alley. Over 20′ long. I want th ceiling to run parallel to the…
I plan on installing a beadboard ceiling in my kitchen. We are planning to use pine 3″ tongue and groove boards. Dykes sells these in long lengths, up to 12′ I think. However, my kitchen is long and skinny like a bowling alley. Over 20′ long. I want th ceiling to run parallel to the floor, the long way. So, I have to have seams somewhere on the butt ends of the beadboard planks. How do I hide the seams? I know I should stagger the boards so the cut ends don’t line up. If I make sure the butt ends fall in the middle of a joist and nail the plank up, then putty the seam with a flexible filler, is this enough to hide the seams? Or should I create some sort of lap joint on the ends? Overkill?
Would love some input from someone that has done this before.
Thanks!
If I needed a perfect job (paying for a perfect job) I would run it in 20′ lengths.
I’ve been carpentering with beadboard for years. The OP’s idea was the right way to go. Butt seams are a natural and expected trait of the beadboard look, so I wouldn’t get worked up about making them disappear. A scarf seam will still leave slightly visible seam line anyway, and is usually used with thicker lumber, like baseboard, where the nail will go through the mitred end of both boards. The great thing about beadboard’s tongue and groove system is that the two boards will remain flush to one another.
SUPER IMPORTANT: seal the backs of the wood first! (Great way to use up paint remainders.) Especially if you’re using pine. it needs all the stability against humidity changes that it can get, so that you don’t end up looking at opened grooves in winter, or buckling in summer.
I’m planning the same look for our kitchen ceiling; I’m glad to know is popular among renovators.
Reno
I’ve been carpentering with beadboard for years. The OP’s idea was the right way to go. Butt seams are a natural and expected trait of the beadboard look, so I wouldn’t get worked up about making them disappear. A scarf seam will still leave slightly visible seam line anyway, and is usually used with thicker lumber, like baseboard, where the nail will go through the mitred end of both boards. The great thing about beadboard’s tongue and groove system is that the two boards will remain flush to one another.
SUPER IMPORTANT: seal the backs of the wood first! (Great way to use up paint remainders.) Especially if you’re using pine. it needs all the stability against humidity changes that it can get, so that you don’t end up looking at opened grooves in winter, or buckling in summer.
I’m planning the same look for our kitchen ceiling; I’m glad to know is popular among renovators.
Reno
The scarf joint is a step in the right direction but these are generally used where the wood is supported from behind. I would use the scarf, but where joints will not hit a joist, I would use a piece of scrap beadboard behind the joint. I would glue the joint and shoot the wood to the backer with a pneumatic nailer. Maybe two brads on each side of the scarf about an inch from it.
There may be a better solution. Call Consolidated Millwork out in NJ and see if they will provide any longer lengths of the stuff. I am not sure if they supply Dykes, but they seem to be one of the big suppliers of beadboard in the NY area.
Steve
http://www.thetinkerswagon.com
Thanks for the advice, everyone! Yes, I’ll definitely be using a pneumatic finish nailer, and the ceiling is already drywalled, so it is fire safe. Wish me luck. I’ll be requesting more expertise if I get stuck…
Look here first http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/how-to/intro/0,,1174950,00.html then buy a cheap air nailer, or a cordless electric nailer It will do a neater job and save you a lot of time, just make sure it shoots a nail long enough to reach the joist. Stagger the scarf joints somewhat randomly and they will be less noticeable. Use a yellow wood glue and a 3d finish nail through the lap of the joint to secure it. Then clean and prime the joint then putty if needed. You must have a fire resistant ceiling, plaster or sheetrock, between the beadboard and the joists or your kitchen will be a fire trap.
I wonder if biscuit joiners would do it.
Dave’s idea is a good one. For my reading pleasure, I hope eman1234 chimes in, if only because I love reading his posts on construction questions. He may be a contractor; if he is I bet his work is beautiful.
Eman, you out there?
I think its called a bevel cut for a “scarf joint.” Cut the butt ends on a 45 degree angle and then caulk them as you nail them together. The bevel cut will not pruduce the same gap as a butt joint.