Oil versus Water Based Finish
Hi, I have seen earlier posts on this but am wondering if anyone has had recent experience with a water based floor finish for hardwood. We are just finishing a renovation on a garden and parlor floor and have oak on one floor and pine on the parlor – but that need sanding and finishing….
Hi, I have seen earlier posts on this but am wondering if anyone has had recent experience with a water based floor finish for hardwood. We are just finishing a renovation on a garden and parlor floor and have oak on one floor and pine on the parlor – but that need sanding and finishing. I don’t have much free time anymore to do the work or much research and just got quotes from the two wood guys across from Lowes. Both recommended traditional oil poly. We have a two month old and are a bit concerned, even though we can stay out of the apartment for at least a few days or even a week from when the finishing will be done (though we will be two floors up in our rental unit). So I think we can avoid the cure fumes but now there is a lot of literature on the more long lasting “off gassing” and it’s enough to give me …gas. The wood guys say that even the best water based finishes need to be redone in about two years which of course is not what the products’ manufacturers claim. Another supposed benefit of the water finish is that it doesn’t amber over time but I actually like that look and don’t see that as a plus. So – any thouhgts on whether long term off gassing is really a threat and/or recent experience with a water finish?
Thank you!
Having used both, I recommend oil (I did 3 coats on my original wide plank pine floors). Water does not hold up as well and this is the sort of event you do not want to repeat too often. Since you can be out for a few days to avoid the fumes, take the opportunity and do it.
FYI, I think we are doing oil based but we are putting the finishing off for a week now, so some of the general work can done. If we do water, my contractor recommends “Street Shoe” with 3 or 4 coats. My wood guy says that Bonners is better (and more expensive). Anyone know about these two brands?
Thanks to all who answered!
We did most of our floors last year with water – we left the living room and dining room, which had been done about 10 years ago in 3 coats of oil, by hand. You really can’t tell the difference between the two except the LR and DR are slightly yellower. Extremely slight though. Finish feels the same and I have had no issues. We also had small kids at the time of the reno and I used all products with low off-gassing (no-VOC paints, water-based stains, etc.) I am happy with it all. I think we used AFM Safecoat? Something from Green Depot. Good luck.
Water bourne products have yet to impress me. The most durable would be a post-cat product like Aqualente (by M.L. Campbell) but they all look kind of plastically. If desire a natural finish that doesn’t off-gas as much,look into tung oil such as Sutherland Welles or Osmo which is an oil-wax finish. Both look more natural than a traditional poly-urethane or water bourne finish.
I used water based because my coop required it. It was very light. It looked unfinished. Four years later it was still in good condition.
Recently did water-based on my oak floors and I’m having them stripped and re-done in oil-based. The water-based is whitening where the floorboards meet and it has chipped and flaked in several places. I did water-based because I didn’t want off-gassing but I did/do want durable good-looking floors. I didn’t get them.
This is one of those perennial questions brownstoners ask. Search the archives and you will see that you are in good company with people who have gone through this. Oil poly is more durable it seems but looks different on the wood — heavier– and yellows. It also stinks, big time and takes a long time to dry. I used a high quality water based and with the satin, it has a much fresher look and it doesn’t smell nearly as much and dries much faster. It doesn’t have to be done every two years unless you have it in a place where there is water or wet traffic. Even then you don’t need to do it every two years. You can also retouch by hand, unlike oil. Check the archives.
PS – sorry for the typos, I haven’t slept much in the past few days due to the aforementioned two month old and reno, along with work getting nuts. Gotta love Murphy’s law. Anyway, any thoughts at all on this are appreciated.