exterior doors
I have been renovating my brownstone for over a year and money is very tight. I now want to restore my exterior doors and must do them myself. I would like to know if there is anyone out there that has done this themselves(stripped and varnish). I also want to know how you can tell…
I have been renovating my brownstone for over a year and money is very tight. I now want to restore my exterior doors and must do them myself. I would like to know if there is anyone out there that has done this themselves(stripped and varnish). I also want to know how you can tell if your doors are salvageable. What products I should use and any useful tips. Thanks for any help.
I decided to pay someone to strip both sides of the door and surrounding wood after deciding that it was just too much work and too toxic a job. I’m very glad I did after seeing (and inhaling) what was involved. I’m now waiting for a family of pigeons that moved in over the door after the wire was removed to move on (the baby cannot yet fly, so I can’t kick them out just yet). The mess on the doorstep makes me rethink this policy daily.
So my question is: once the door is stripped, and it is determined that the wood needs to be painted, not stained, do I just start sanding, followed by priming and painting? Any tips regarding tools for sanding areas with detail?
Thanks, and good luck anon.
I got a great book called the furniture doctor. I used it when I stripped some old filing cabinets and outdoor chairs. Check it out.
Only shellac is disolved in alcohol. Lacquer thinner is the solvent of choice when used in conjunction with corse steel wool for stripping. If you choose to go with a chemical stripper like rock miracle, cover it with some type of barrier such as wax paper to keep the solvent working for you.
Just want to add that 4:56 means denatured alcohol. Works great on shellac, takes forever on varnish.
Other forms of alcohol make you think you can do more than is humanly possible.
Heat guns are perfectly safe unless you aim it like a laser. The trick is to move it around like a blowdryer.
Don’t use a heat gun — too much risk of scorching the wood. To re-iterate what the 4:56pm poster said, different finishes require different strippers. Check your library for a book on wood refinishing or pick one up at Lowe’s, or Home Depot, or Barnes & Noble. Start with the gentlest stripper, then move up to the stronger solvents. Also consider buying new, heavier-duty hinges for when you are ready to re-hang the doors and look into using metal weather-stripping (zinc or bronze) for a tight, draft-free fit.
Alcohol is supposed to remove real varnish and shellac. Before using a heat gun and chemical strippers, try rubbing alcohol on the varnish.
Anon, piece of cake. Take all of our advice, and you should have no problems.
You haven’t lived until you’ve stripped 8 layers or more of paint from anything. Yente is certainly right, leave that stuff on there as long as you can.
I have an ugly, modern, replacement security door, so please excuse any door envy. Someday, I’ll find the perfect salvage doors….
I am the original poster. The doors were never painted. I have peeling varnish and I think they are oak.
You can definitely re-use them; gouged-out detail can be repaired/replaced with 2-part epoxy or wood filler (but it will show if you don’t paint).
One comment–a heat gun works great, but you can scorch the wood if you’re not really careful. Not a prob if you want to paint, but could be if you want to leave natural and varnish. A slightly darker stain will help hide inperfections. Use satin finish outdoor varnish with UV protection. Glossier finishes just highlight imperfections.
Good luck!
What kind of wood are the doors?