L Magazine Weighs in on Dokebi

The L Magazine lets a Manhattanite review Williamsburg’s latest Japanese boite, Dokebi. His verdict? Worth the trip.

Walking down Grand Street, I was struck by its incongruous name. Low buildings, dim and quiet on a brisk Wednesday night, were littered with the usual suspects: sushi, pizza, hipster lounges. The lights of Manhattan twinkled in the distance…But I had work to do, damn it, and no borough was going to get in my way. A block later, large windows lit the street in neon beer-sign glow. This was the place. Stringent geometry, high ceilings, globe lights, and expansive Japanese wooden benches rimming futuristic tabletop grills. It was new, but familiar, like a high school cafeteria from a forgotten anime dream…The portions weren’t huge, but the golden, glistening morsels were enough to sate us.

Dokebi is located at 199 Grand Street. Telephone: 718-782-1424.
Food and Drink: Dokebi [L Magazine]