Cost and Timing of an Extension
I am considering putting an offer on a brooklyn brownstone but would like to get a sense if I have the budget to make the changes I would like. It’s a 3 story building on the smaller side and we want to use as a two family. In an ideal world would like to add…
I am considering putting an offer on a brooklyn brownstone but would like to get a sense if I have the budget to make the changes I would like.
It’s a 3 story building on the smaller side and we want to use as a two family. In an ideal world would like to add a 2 (or even 3) story extension to the back (thinking 8ft out x 18ft wide). Then move the kitchen from its existing parlor floor location location (near the extension) into the extension freeing up room for the the parlor floor to become a very nice kitchen+living area, the top floor for 2 bedrooms and the garden floor for an in-law that could be rented out.
Obviously, I will contact an architect or contractor prior to any formal bid, but would love to get input from people who have done this type of renovation to understand costs and timeline in very broad strokes (is it a $100,000 job or a $300,000 job). How long does it take etc. Before I expend to much energy dreaming, would love to get some basic parameters.
Thanks in advance.
I’m with Jcarch on this one, probably a lot closer to 300 than 100, and if you’re not careful, over that. Everybody loves to quote the 150-200 a square foot price tag, but usually that’s over the scope of a whole job and some construction is cheaper than others. Bedrooms and hallways sort of balance out the cost of kitchens and bathrooms. The type of construction that you are talking about tends to be expensive. Foundation work where you can’t easily reach the back of the house, so all the excavating has to be done by hand (unless you take down part of the front wall to get a Bobcat in), the excavated soil has to be hand carried through the house, hiring a concrete pumper to get the concrete to the forms, taking down a back wall, because lets face it, why go through all that trouble and expense only to have an 8′ deep room, moving gas lines, plumbing, new cabinets, windows, etc. It’s a very costly job in relationship to the amount of space that you will be gaining.
pcvhaiti
I am an architect if you want I can check the zoning info for you.
As far as budget goes off the top of my head 100,000 – 300,000 is the right range but there are lots of factors that will affect the price. For example you said 2 or 3 stories there is a big difference there. Anyway the place to start is to find out what is permitted by zoning. If you want I can look it up for you –
you can email me jorgefontan@gmail.com
My Architect found out I can build a 40′ extension, and he is planning it at the moment. I don´t know costs yet, it depends also on materials, my guess is 130-150 k.
But after I have seen the drawings there is no holding back.
If you are interested in his contact let me know.
I did almost exactly that but my info is old – I built 7 years ago. 16′ wide and 10′ out, 2 storys. Nice – brick, arched window openings, marvin windows/french doors on both floors, deck – but nothing super extravagant. Was careful about expenses and selected decent but not the highest end workers.
Including rough-in but excluding the kitchen finish (cabs, appliances, etc) it came to about 180k and took almost a year from the first permit until the final c of o inspection. The plans/approvals took about 6 months, finding a contractor took forever. It is not something you’re going to knock out quickly before you move in.
I don’t think prices have more than doubled since then but you’re still going to be well over 100k.
Whether you can even do this will depend on whether you can enlarge the building w/out violating the Zoning Resolution.
For what you’re talking about, you’ll need to make sure you wouldn’t exceed the allowable floor area ration (FAR), the allowable lot coverage, and that you would still have at least a 30′ rear yard (unless you’re w/in 100′ of the avenue, or on the avenue).
Hire an architect to do a quick study of these issues, or if you’re a do it your selfer, get the zoning guideline book from the city bookstore, use the DCP’s website, and a survey of the property and look at these issues yourself.
You’ll have to be careful that you’ll still have adequate natural air/light for all habitable rooms after the addition – so you’ll probably be enlarging rooms, not creating a separate space that just has a door through the old back wall of the building.
There’s lots of variables to take into consideration, but you’re looking at $300K, not $100.