Sooo, I got a window quote and I’m bummed about the cost.

If anyone has some options they would like to share, it would be much appreciated!

This is the story…

We have crappy vinyl replacements from the 80’s. The front of the house feels like we’re leaving the windows wide open. Drafty! We’d like to replace all windows in the house.

Area is not currently landmarked, but it’s in the works. We want to get this done by next winter.

Here’s the problem: The front windows are an odd shape. They have a little arch on the top. So, these would be custom. The quote was about $3800 apiece for all wood, Marvin.

Obviously, it would be a lot less expensive if it wasn’t brick to brick, but we really want to take it back and insulate.

The back will be fiberglass replacements. They were less than $1000 apiece.

This quote was from Bay Ridge Windows. He’s coming back with an estimate from a factory other than Marvin.

My question is…Does this sound like a fair price for custom Marvins? Is there something we’re overlooking that may give us similar quality and aesthetics?

Thanks!


Comments

  1. If I were installing brick to brick wood Marvins, I’d go with Historical Windows/EZ Tilt. If installing replacement vinyl windows, I’d go with Lucky Window Products (LWP) in Sunset Park, which has been in business since the 1950s and has a reputation for good installation.

    We had both companies out to measure and give estimates, as well as Window Fix. I didn’t love Window Fix, because the guy measuring was not the person who would install. LWP really knew their stuff, but doesn’t specialize in Marvins. EZ Tilt does.

    We got a quote for large custom wood Marvins on the parlor floor, brick to brick, and it was approx $3,000 or so per window. I would not be surprised at all if an arched custom window were even more expensive.

    We also got a quote for reasonably decent quality aluminum windows, not brick to brick. They were about $500 each.

    In any case, it’s the installation that really makes the difference. If they’re not installed properly, you will have leaking.

    OP, we have replacement vinyl windows too, which don’t even close, hence massive air infiltration. In the winter, we cover with plastic, which helps a lot. Haven’t had the work done yet, had to spring for emergency chimney relining first.

  2. Maybe some of you have a different definition of brick-to-brick. None of the old window frame will remain in the opening, I’m just not ripping out the historic brickmold or the interior casework. That’s what I understand brick-to-brick to mean.

  3. We also used EZ-Tilt. I still wince at the price we paid but we have been very happy with the results. Their installation services are top notch — and it is an all-in-one price. I understand that there can be problems when you source windows from one firm and then bring in an unrelated firm to do the installation.

    I have heard that there are other high quality wood windows available from companies like Kolbe, Bonneville and Lincoln. Apparently these are all less expensive than Marvin (who do spend a lot of $$ on advertising).

    Finally, I think your decision is absolutely right to do brick-to-brick. It’s much more expensive but a good investment in the long run. We did our windows piece meal. The most disappointing ones in terms of draftiness are the custom mahogany ones in the rear parlor. They look gorgeous but our GC installed them in the old aluminum frames which are rubbish. We now know better!

  4. Not sure how much the arch adds, but 42×80 Marvin ultimate double hung cost closer to $2500 each last summer (brick to brick), which included sound reducing glass and upgraded hardware. Impossible to know if yours is a reasonable quote without knowing the size of your windows.

    Historical Windows (EZ Tilt) did the work and the price included any adjustments needed to the interior trim due to the install. I would strongly recommend talking to Bill Jacobs @ HWNY. His installers are excellent, leave your house clean at the end of every day, and there is no whining about any unforeseen finishing adjustments.

    Brick to brick makes a huge difference. I’ve done it both ways, and totally disagree with BrooklynButler.

  5. Also, I just read your explanation of why you want brick to brick. I think you can insulate those sash pockets without ripping them out. At least–it would be worth checking if it could be done, and how it would look.

  6. RH: I want to do the best thing also, and even I’m not doing brick-to-brick for my replacement. I saw it as minimally beneficial with maximum disruption and destruction. Marvin is an excellent brand, but Parrett and Eagle are also very good windows. You also need to start worrying about a lead issue.

    I’m curious to know who the other supplier BRDW is quoting.

    Historical Window turned out to be around the same price as the company we chose. I just didn’t like dealing with them. The treated me like a small job (which I am, but in this economy…)

  7. Price seems reasonable for what you’re getting. I agree, shopping around is a very good idea.

    We recently got insert wood Marvins from Bay Ridge Windows (would never recommend them – incredibly bad office, with middling installation). Really wish we had done brick-to-brick with a different company – the windows are still super-drafty.

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