Installing a new shower faucet and shower curtain rod (rounded square shape) above a clawfoot tub. Securing the rod requires at least one horizontal bar that goes from the ring (side that does not have the shower head) to the ceiling, and from the ring to the wall (side that does have the shower head – arrow (1) in picture). The shower head is heavier than the little one that was there, and so with that weight, and the weight of the shower curtain ring, I’m concerned about the horizontal bar secured to the wall…in that if I am not screwing into a stud, then I will not have enough support strength.

One option is to attach a horizontal piece of wood 4″ x 12″ or 16″ to the wall, and then attach the shower ring support piece to the wood (where arrow (1) is). If I paint the wood the same color as the wall it will blend in, but I am wondering if anyone else has any other ideas?

One other thought is to attach another vertical support from the top of the shower head pipe to the ceiling…to help distribute the support away from the wall support… (see arrow (2) )

Thoughts?

Thanks!


Comments

  1. I don’t think you need to screw the horizontal support into the studs. The screws our set came with were really short, and probably barely penetrate the sheetrock. You have to remember that the upright portion carries alot of the weight, so the horizontal is there to keep it from swaying, rather than being weight bearing.

    We screwed the vertical part into the lathe and plaster ceiling without any special reinforcement. The plaster was in incredible condition, though.

  2. Also, even though you bought at Park Slope, you could probably call up Vintage Tub and say you are considering buying a shower and how do they recommend you attach it. They are very knowledgeable.

  3. “Bob:Would the lath behind be strong enough?”

    It is in my house. Also, the tin ceiling is probably attached to firring strips which, in turn, are attached to the original ceiling. If the seams on the tin ceiling panels are in a good location, you could screw your supports into those strips.

  4. Like I said – I got the shower parts all from Park Slope Plumbing. Went for Chrome which was much cheaper than the brushed nickel I originally was liking. Chrome is perfectly fine. Two faucets, shower rods, extra attachment was slightly over $1600. Looking over what I unpacked, it all looks solid – my plumber seemed impressed with the quality. No plastic at all. (Yikes!)

    I did look at Vintage Tub but was a little worried after reading some of the comments about leaking parts, etc. Also, I’ve used Park Slope Plumbing Supply for many of my other items and I like them and the way that they’ve always assisted us in our needs.

  5. Thanks you two. I am doing the revamp to two tubs, both with slightly different specs…

    This particular tub has its faucet side close to the wall. Walls are sheetrock. Ceiling is tin… This is the one I am a bit concerned about if I can’t screw the horizontal support into the stud (arrow 1 in my picture). Bob:Would the lath behind be strong enough?

    But, to cyrka66’s comment: I could add one or two more attachment pieces (horizontal or even to the ceiling, come to think of it.

    I currently have two shower curtains in place and like that they provide the best water containment…one is facing the wall, the other is the one I open/close when entering the tub. I think I can live with the shower curtain against the wall not being able to be pushed to one side completely.

    Adding another one or two horizontal support to the wall means:
    -I can try to find one or two studs to screw them into
    -I just attach the shower curtain around the extra clamps on the shower rod.
    -I guess I could also add another vertical support piece and clamp that onto the rod, positioned as close to the shower head pipe, so it is centered.

    RE: the other tub, the faucet is not too close to a wall, so that part of the shower rod will have a vertical support clamped to the rod and centered where the shower head pipe is located. Then I plan on attaching a horizontal support piece to the rod section that faces the wall. I also thought that I could also clamp another vertical support onto the shower head’s pipe – to stabilize the shower head, but the more I think about it, that might actually be overkill since the shower head and it’s riser pipe should be strong enough to stand upright on its own, right? Also not the prettiest solution…

    Btw: The extra attachment pieces are available – I ordered one from Park Slope Plumbing supply along with all shower faucets/rods, etc.

    Thanks again!

  6. Ringo, check vintagetub and bathsfromthepast.

    Springhouse makes a very inexpensive one for $150, and Vintage Tub’s house brand Randolph Morris is about $425. Baths from the Past also offers one for $400 or so.

    Randolph Morris is solid brass, Springhouse is imported (prob from China) and has quite a bit of plastic. We ordered one of each. We needed a narrow ring and had to order pipe riser extenders because our baths are so small with high ceilings. Maybe in a few years we’ll spring for Strom. Have their faucets and love them.

    Vintage Tub’s customer service is exceptional. They can answer any question, and our order arrived the next day (it was supposed to arrive in a week).

    Haven’t installed them yet. Our installer said something about using one of those bolt thingies (forget the name) in plaster. He said they’re removable. He also recommends extra supports for Springhouse because it’s flimsy, but he’s had one for five years and no problems.