The former residents of my apartment were big fans of window treatments, as evidenced by these “ears,” or what I’m assuming are mounting brackets for some long-ago valances. Every window has them, and I’d like to remove them. Trouble is, I can’t seem to figure out how they were originally installed. They sit flush with the side of the window moldings, but there are no fasteners visible, and zero give. The steel flange just disappears behind the plaster into the wall. Do these look familiar to anyone, and is there any way to remove them without destroying the moldings or the walls? I was considering slicing off the “ears” with a Dremel tool, but the steel is thick, so I’m not sure that’s advisable.


Comments

  1. If you are going to use an angle grinder, I recommend wearing a polycarbonate face shield and respirator. Gloves are not a bad idea either. Kick back from a grinder can really mess up your modeling career.

  2. try the angle grinder and let us know how it works out. I didn’t have one of those available – only the dremel and hacksaw. I removed 12 of these.

  3. I’m with tsarina. Angle grinder. Sparks, yes, but just protect your eyes and the carpet and the rest will be fine. If you don’t cut flush enough to the wall, you can quickly grind down what’s left to below slightly below the surface, prime, and plaster/patch over it. You get get rebuilt, like new Makita or Bosch on-line for chump change if you don’t have one.

  4. thanks for all of the advice — the notion of sparks embedding in my windows (not to mention carpet, etc?) sounds a little scary, but there are 22 of these things, so it seems like it’s either that or drive myself insane trying to manually slice them all off.

  5. if you use an angle grinder you can get 1/16″ thick slicing discs which will cut this quickly. You also need to protect the glass from the sparks as they will embed in the glass permanently.
    as stated above wear eye, ear and hand protection.

  6. I would probably use a hand grinder (cut off or angle grinder). It’ll cut through the metal quickly and you can clean up the rough edges using the same tool…grind it right down flush with the plaster. You won’t accomplish that clean look with a hack saw or a reciprocating saw.

  7. the dremel tool will allow you to make a fine, and relatively precise cut close to the frame. the sawzall can not do this. I’d argue that a tiny hacksaw by hand would be the safest.