Architect or a Roofer?
And if so, who? I live in a 40 unit co-op (1920s era) that needs roofing attention, and my guess is that it probably needs to be stripped to the deck, insulated, and re-roofed. I wouldn’t be surprised if some of the deck needed to be repaired. Asbestos is not unlikely, but unknown. Masonry and…
And if so, who?
I live in a 40 unit co-op (1920s era) that needs roofing attention, and my guess is that it probably needs to be stripped to the deck, insulated, and re-roofed. I wouldn’t be surprised if some of the deck needed to be repaired. Asbestos is not unlikely, but unknown. Masonry and parapet caps look to be in pretty good shape, but the parapets are pretty gooey, so hard to tell what’s under there.
I’m on the board of directors, and the lucky nominee to head this little project. I’m also an architect (15 years experience in large scale commercial if you want to know), but smart enough to know what I don’t know. I don’t know what or whether I need to file. I don’t know what other code required changes might be triggered by such a change. And though I know what epdm, modified bitumen, and TPO all are, I don’t know this market niche well enough to weigh in on the price/payback of each. I could do some work and find out everything that I don’t know, but I know that I don’t want to be the responsible party for 39 potentially unruly neighbors.
Being an architect, I’m pretty sure I want another architect, but I want someone who knows roofs better than I do. I want someone who’s done 20 of these, and who can look at our roof and anticipate rather than react. But it’s entirely possible that my architectural allegiance stems from comradeship rather than sound judgement. So maybe I want a roofer.
Any help is much appreciated. And just to stave off the inevitable promos – I’ll say again that I want someone who knows roofs better than I do.
Not to over intellectualize duct tape, but in reply to bklynres off hand, I’d say it’s probably better than the bituminous goo that I see everywhere. There are fibers for tensile strength so it should work well with expansion and contraction – should there be some water infiltration, the overlapping should work better in channeling water than the goo which will just form fish mouths and bubbles and eventually destroy the deck – I think I’ve spent too much time already thinking duct tape and should get back to work.
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Matt Sela
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I’ve seen a method of putting down overlapping layers of duct tape on a whole roof – it is the essence of beauty.
If the job is a repair job, you don’t need to file it; if it’s a tear down (ie remove old roof, and replace) you’ll have to file. In my opinion, this is because the DOB needs to keep an eye on the fire rating, asbestos, and insulation issues.
Asbestos removal will add a large cost to the project and it is one of the reasons why typically the older roofs are left in place and covered with recovery board. One will often see 4 or 5 roofs on an older building and the lower levels will often contain asbestos as it was a great roofing material. Not only did it provide fireproofing, but the long fibers gave tensile strength to the assembly.
In any case, a few good reasons for a tear down job are: 1. a decent warranty – the manufacturer can’t possibly ensure the performance of a new roof on an infirm substrate. 2. the substrate may be damaged and this would be a good opportunity to check it. 3. J-51’s. 4. New insulation not only to conform to current standards, but also to upgrade performance.
While you noted that the leakage problems have been solved for the time being, I totally agree with the comment by bklynres about the survey and the other sources of water infiltration. I’d also recommend some probes especially around the parapet as you don’t want to replace the roof first and then do parapet work.
You might not replace the roof for another 5 years – but when you do, I’d suggest doing a tear down and replace other elements if only for the guarantee/warranty and site visits from the product rep.
Hope this helps…I’m an architect who tends to get a little obsessed over water infiltration. If you don’t need an architect and want a roofing consultant, I can recommend one who I worked for some 20 years ago and who is sincere and very committed. Feel free to email me at a.abramowicz@a2architects.net and I’ll track down his information.
Depending on your reason(s) for roof replacement (actual leakage or actual complaints) and where if any, leakage may occur, keep in mind that the possibility of through-wall leakage in addition to any other skyward facing water infiltration. This may be unpleasant if leakage continues after the roof has been repaired.
Depending on the scope of the repair (small) you may be able to get away with just hiring a contractor, but myself having experience in the exterior restoration field performing surveys, estimates, and attending board meetings (facepalm) the belt and suspenders approach usually saves alot of potential grief from the “what you didn’t even know you didn’t know”.
In large co-op buildings with prevalent leakage, taking a survey of leakage among residents may be a prudent first step (wall, ceiling, etc.) There’s nothing worse than revisiting a job that has been “finished”.
No one’s yet called me a blockhead, so I’m pursuing the architect path. So far have reached out to:
Rand engineering
Howard Zimmerman
Walter Melvin
Commentary / other recommendations? I’m somewhat concerned that I’m aiming too high (i.e. too large of a hammer for the job), but I suppose I’ll take that over the opposite problem.
I stand corrected. DOB classifies it as an alteration type 2 and it has to be filed in order to comply with the most current energy standards.
Rand Engineering. Skylight Renovations. If you do it right, you get a 25 year guarantee on labor and materials.
To address zberlin’s question, there is no specific immediate problem. But our roof has been in place for a good number of years (predates my time in the buidling), has required several patches over the last two years in response to leaks, and our roofer has said that he thinks it’s at the end of its lifespan. I think that’s probably true, and without some expertise, I don’t know if needs to go down to the deck or perhaps just needs another layer on top of the sandwich that is currently there. Other issues are insulation (I’d be willing to bet that it has none) and color (black) – I’m sure we’re losing a lot of energy through this roof, and the upper floor apartments (not mine, for those of you who think that co-op boards only act on personal interests) suffer in terms of comfort.
I suppose my concern with going directly to a roofer is that roofers almost always have a preferred system (usually as a certified/recommended installer for a specific roofing product), and I’m hesitant to go to a system without some expertise and direction.
As an fyi, I have contacted Rand engineering, and am looking for others to compare/contrast.
And to reiterate, I’m entirely willing to go the roofer route if other’s think I’m being blockheaded. I just have my (blockheaded) concerns.