Replacement Window Help
What started out as a “make the room nice” as ended up being a “full” renovation. Currently we have decided to replace the replacement windows with “real” windows and gain back almost a foot of glass (across three windows). We have removed the existing vinyl windows and the original chain pockets. We now have clean…
What started out as a “make the room nice” as ended up being a “full” renovation.
Currently we have decided to replace the replacement windows with “real” windows and gain back almost a foot of glass (across three windows). We have removed the existing vinyl windows and the original chain pockets. We now have clean opening (as shown).
Before we reframe the opening for the new windows, I assume we should address the bricks that “fell” out of the header and also the gap between the brownstone facade and Brick wall.
There is also a gap between the sill stone and an interior row of bricks.
Any advice on the proper materials to use? Do we need to be concerned about the type of mortar? (I assume yes)
Can we use an epoxy or other “modern” Material here?
Pointers?
To be clear on my earlier post, the picture shows two wood lintels in place. It looks as though there may have been a third lintel in front of those other two, where the red arrows are pointing. The leftmost red arrow might even be pointing to the pocket for the erstwhile lintel.
This picture also gives you a good idea of how much of a veneer brownstone really was!
OP here: Thanks for all the comments. I’ll try my best to answer them. (In order):
mopar: Marvin Integrity wood-ultrex. Seems to get 2nd best ratings across the board (Marvin ultimate double hung seems to be the best). We are hoping to install them ourselves. I called Marvin and as long as they are true, square and plumb, they are covered by warrantee. Of course reading the warrantee leaves me thinking there’s not much left to cover.
Windows: (2) @ 36×72 & (1) @ 34×72
Marvin UItimate Double hung = ~$2600
Integraty wood Ultrex = ~$900
The advantage of the Ultimate is many many more options, colors, wood types, sizes. But our mantra for the house is “don’t put a Cadillac parts in a chevette”. And since the is costing WAY more than budgeted, we’re going ultrex.
ultrex = fiberglass frame window with wood interior finish.
FLH: Thanks will look at type “M†mortar.
Dave: Thank you, we are aware of this. Salesman @ park Ave building supply advised to use foam backer rod & caulk. We are TBD at this point.
Sally: Will ask about type “L†mortar.
Helppls: See answer by Bob below… Basically we removed all of the original windows, including the chain pockets and according to our rough calcs we are going to gain about 12†of glass across all three windows. And yes, why couldn’t we do it ourselves? As long as we do it right, there is no reason we can’t install them as well as any installer. In Fact our neighbor had his windows replaced and they had to redo half of them because they didn’t flash them correctly. We have not been impressed with “installersâ€.
Bob M: The previous owner installed these windows, and they are OK. Slightly drafty and such. The main issue is, since the entire wall was being renovated (insulating, wood stripping, new plaster) it makes sense to spend the ~$900 on new windows and “do it right†otherwise, in 5-10 years when these windows really are shot, we’ll have to replace them, and in the process damage all the finish work. AND we gain DLO (Daylight opening) = more glass….
Minard: I agree totally. We did not go too far. The top of the window was just a piece of wood that made up the top of the window. When the chain pockets came out, so did the top of the window. The brick were just sitting on the top of the board. Thank goodness I wasn’t working alone, or they would have landed on my head. We have spoken with an architect and we are evaluating the best way forward. As for a Lintel, I believe that the two 2×4, as seen on the left in the photo, are the actual lintels. This is more a gap between the brownstone façade and the main brick wall.
Also we won’t actually be a “brick to brick†install. The windows are about 1†smaller width wise and 4†shorter than the brick opening. Once inside the opening, we have room to install traditional wood framing to shim and anchor the window.
Hooky: oh no! good luck.
Type L doesn’t exist (really) – the types are ASTM designations, and there is no type L. But lime-only mortar is sometimes called type L. Unless you are working on a Colonial- or Federal-period house, you probably don’t want to be using type L – it is meant for very soft brick in sheltered areas, and has virtually no compressive strength (it will also set up much faster than a Portland-based mortar, so you will have to work very quickly and efficiently).
Petebklyn,
I’m afraid not–Marvin Windows are another Marvin–it’s an uncommon last name, but not THAT uncommon (plus, I didn’t know about their existence 35 years ago).
ML is right – you should have an architect, engineer or good contractor look at the openings to know what you are dealing with – one picture on brownstoner forum doesn’t do it! Typically, you can do the replacement without removing the original subframe (chain pockets and the like) – you certainly don’t want to be removing structural members (like lintels).
It looks as though there is a wood lintel there, but there might have been a third, which would have supported the brick above. The gaps between the jamb and backup brick likewise could be inconsequential and just filled with insulation – the structural concern there would be the attachment of the brownstone to the backup brick. Remember too that the frame and the brick molds will cover all of these gaps, so they don’t need to look pretty.
As for mortar, type N is the right mortar (type O would work too). Type M IS NOT HIGH LIME – it has a very high Portland cement content (3:1 PC:lime) and as a result a very high compressive strength. For most above-grade pointing on later 19th-century buildings, you want N (1:1) or O (1:2). (For Federal period and earlier, you might consider a traditional lime-paste mortar, but the later brick can handle N or O.) These are all available at masonry supply stores, or can be mixed on site using lime, sand and Portland cement.
This is a dangerous condition. There is nothing holding up the brick above the window opening but friction. They can dislodge and crash down. You have to get something in there asap to hold up the load above. Oy!
Yes, lintels are a must! Whoever did the reno on my house prior to my purchasing it, left out lintels in the back extension. I have other renovations I just had to complete, so the lintels are for next year. But I can tell you, there is strange creaking sometimes coming from the top of the window frame and a large crack has developed. Thankfully the windows would only fall to the terrace at their base. But god, I’m hoping that doesn’t happen!
The header bricks should not have fallen out. There should be a lintel, either steel or stone, to support those bricks. Did you remove the lintel along with the original window frame? There is such a thing as going too far.
You will need to speak with an architect and re-install a lintel prior to putting in a new window. The structure comes first.
The new window assembly will need to be custom made to fit exactly within the masonry opening and then anchored into the masonry with masonry bolts and further set by the trim pieces applied around the periphery. It is no big deal but can be botched so very easily. Once you opt for a brick to brick installation like this, adult supervision is a must.
of course you are happy with yours….you have Marvin windows…one of the better ones.