Silent Paint Remover
I am about to remove 110 years of paint on moldings and doors with the silent paint remover. It seems as though this option provides the least exposure to lead and chemicals but I am wondering if anyone has any further advice regarding how to be as safe as possible in the paint removal. I…
I am about to remove 110 years of paint on moldings and doors with the silent paint remover. It seems as though this option provides the least exposure to lead and chemicals but I am wondering if anyone has any further advice regarding how to be as safe as possible in the paint removal. I will have a fan, respirator, ventilation etc. Perhaps I am being too cautious?
Thank you for any advice.
Definitely wear a respirator and get different types of paint scrapers. We needed a dental pick to get the paint out of some of the more intricately carved molding.
Also, I was an idiot and left the SPR balanced on the top of a ladder during a lunch break, and of course it fell off and shattered one of the heating elements. Since I was on a tight timeline, I had to get a replacement bulb overnighted. If you’re as clumsy as me, it can be useful to have a backup bulb or two; they are cheap. If you’re careful with it, the bulbs last a really long time, and don’t need regular replacement.
We covered everything in plastic even though we were planning on ripping up the carpet as well. Depending on what you have under the paint, you may want some denatured alcohol or paint remover to do some finish work as well. The SPR sometimes brought the paint up super cleanly, but other times left a sticky residue that we cleaned up with denatured EtOH and scotch brite. A shop vac is also a good idea. We usually don’t bother with bags in the shop vac, but used one whenever we were vacuuming up paint. Who knows what chemicals there were in 100 years of paint.
I should be a salesperson for the Silent Paint Remover, it has been pretty much attached to my hand for the better half of two years as we work on our house. I love it. I also use Peel Away for other projects. There’s nothing more satisfying than holding the SPR over a piece of molding that you cannot even discern the profile there’s so many years and layers of paint on, then pulling it off in one fell swoop. As far as lead paint exposure goes, I ALWAYS wear a respirator with appropriate cartridges when working with the SPR or PeelAway…sometimes even with the gel form there’s pieces underneath that may chip up. I have also been tested for lead poisoning twice since I started doing this, and there has been no indication of any exposure or change in my bloodwork. Use precaution, wear a respirator, not a dust mask, ventilate, use a HEPA filter on your vac, and change your clothes after working before going into the living area of your home. Good Luck!
I have a SPR, a heat gun, and I’ve tried using steam as well. Each will work super well on one painted surface and less well on another, so handy to have each. The best situation is if the surface had shellac as the original first finish and was painted on top of that. Keep in mind any metal doorknobs or hinges an be boiled in hot water with baking soda or TSP to get the paint off without (other) chemicals). Also get a variety of scrapers–heavy putty knife, various shapes of scrapers, and a sharpened flat screwdriver. I found the screwdriver useful for the multi-shape curved moulding pieces on doors and door trim.
Do not use a fan. The biggest risk is stirring up the dust. You’re supposed to mist this with water and clean it up with a sponge or wet rag. I combined that with a hepa-filter equipped shop vac with a bag. I also would clean up the debris every time I took a break because otherwise you’re stepping on big chunks of paint turning them to dust.
Be very careful with the heat gun, it’s easy to singe wood and to burn your arm. But I think you’ll need one in addition to the SPR to get the last bits of paint off.
I created some new gouges and dings in the wood removing the paint so keep in mind that if there are sections that don’t show the many coats (no detail work and paint intact) you can leave those unstripped side by side with detail work that you are stripping, assuming that you are going to paint as your finish coat.
Good luck! It is possible to get all that paint off!
we used the SPR and it was great. It works best of woodwork that’s been shellacked or varnished before they painted it. for anything that you can’t get to with the gun, use Peel Away #7. It’s the best out there.
If you’re going to paint the woodwork, I’d use Peel-Away 1. Encapsulates the paint and keeps it liquid. Heat guns/SPR, withe proper protection, should also keep lead dust down. I’d invest $60 in a dedicated Shop Vac with filter, and clean up carefully every day. You will definitely need to use chemical strippers at the end…just keep things wet.
Good luck. I think I’ve stripped my last paint ever. 2 full apartments was more than enough…
I heard bad stories about heat gun. Apparently it can leave ambers inside of the wood and cause fire. So be sure, that everything is cold after you finish it.
Chemical strippers are good and let you handler lead paint safely. I think this one part outweighs any insignificant chemical affects from the strippers. Besides you will have good ventilation and proper respirator with “organic vapor” cartridges. Also check the respirator for fit before working.
Yes, the liquefied paint from the SPR will quickly become dry and “friable”, so be sure to cover the area well with newspaper/plastic, etc and dispose of carefully and properly. Keep in mind you are disrupting the lead finish and that is state (friable) at which the lead is most easily tracked/transferred. Might want to cover shoes in plastic and dispose of it each time you leave your work area so you dont track any gunk. I’d be very careful about the fan because it could cause more disruption to this debris and may scatter the dust. Pick up as you go, dont let too much accumulate and wear the respirator/mask etc. Also, only use a highly rated HEPA vacuum to clean up (we recommend Nilfisk), and then wipe down area with Ledisolv when done. Good luck. It’s still alot of work with the SPR but will make a difference.
Pay for a pro.
good question. i have been using one on a prewar apt and it works well but i am not sure how to handle the peeled paint. the scraping does seem to cause some of the paint to become dustlike. is a mask and gloves enough?
i have generally just swept and vacuumed when done an area. i want to be careful but not paranoid.