Hot/Cold Water Issues
I live in a pre-war, 4 story walk up rental building. It has 20 apts, 50% market rate and 50% rent stabilized (aging/elderly tenants). The owner is not stingy (plenty of heat etc) and the super takes a lot of pride in maintaining the building. However, I have a hot/cold issue with my shower that…
I live in a pre-war, 4 story walk up rental building. It has 20 apts, 50% market rate and 50% rent stabilized (aging/elderly tenants). The owner is not stingy (plenty of heat etc) and the super takes a lot of pride in maintaining the building. However, I have a hot/cold issue with my shower that is getting worse over time. During the morning rush, and now all evening long, the hot and cold water from the shower fluctuates tremendously. Sometimes it goes to scalding hot or ice cold in less than a second. Other times it is gradual temp change. I never notice this in the faucets, only the shower. The time it takes me to shower is almost doubled because I am spending extra time adjusting the knobs or waiting for the temp to even out again. One time I almost slipped and fell trying to avoid getting scalded! I am concerned about the elderly people who can not react as quickly as myself. Anyway, I casually mentioned it to my super twice now, and his response was “the building is just old and there is nothing we can do.”
Anyone have any thoughts or advice?
FWIW, they capped off and removed the tub spout during a recently “renovation” and I have two knobs (H+C)
Hank – Yes, my radiators have only one pipe on opposite side of vent. Is it possible to replace these plastic washers from the outside or does it come back around to the issue of opening up the tile wall? If outside the wall, is it a quick DIY fix? (I am pretty handy) Legion, there are no leaks from the knobs when in the closed position. However there *may* be water trickling out while the shower is on. I never paid much attention, but I will check on that tonight. Thank you everyone for all the help.
…oh, I’m not a plumber, I just play one on the internet.
bowl of dicks,
The fixed knob between the H and C is the knob that used to shut off the flow to the tub spout.
If it is permanently closed that should not be an issue.
If there is rapid fluctuation to that shower head only, it may indicate that the rubber/plastic washer at the end of the H or C valve is wearing down and/or flopping inside the valve assembly blocking the hot or cold flow at any given time.
A big clue is if there is a leak when both the H and C valves are closed. If there is no leak then the valve assembly and rubber/plastic washer is probably not the issue and what Hank said applies (more of a source problem).
Consider showering at a different time of day or night to see if the problem is still present. If you shower late one evening, chances are most others are in bed and if it’s a use/volume issue it will become apparent.
BOD;
Yes, in answer to your question above. Just turn on the HW in the shower and let it run for a long time. Stand outside, and check the consistency of the temperature with your fingers (careful about scalding!).
I agree with Hank’s recommendation about the installation of the newer single-lever valves that regulate the temperature. I installed one in my old house, which had a similiar problem, and it solved everything.
BOD- Do you have “steam heat”, i.e. do your radiators have a single pipe coming into them on the bottom and on the opposite side an air valve?
And, yes, it WILL solve your problem with uneven heat because that it exactly what it was designed for (aside from the obvious prevention of scalding). Theoretically, if you install a quality valve, there will be no fluctuation in temperature or pressure (actually volume). I have installed these in more than one of my tenants’ apartments and they are actually a savings in the long run because, among other things, they shorten shower length for the very reasons you articulated.
BOD, without getting overly complicated, the reality is that the home most likely has a conventional water heater that is incapable of sustaining the demand (called recovery)making you more susceptible to temperature fluctuations. Read “Stonergut” above. The anti-scald valve (somewhat of a misnomer because it also regulates temperature consistently)will most likely correct your problem. The trick is convincing the L/L. It’s really not a big deal to install. Basically you are eliminating the individual hot and cold valves and replacing them with the single lever shower valve body. You might want to consider sharing the cost.
So just to clarify – a mixing valve is only used for those single handle style shower faucets, and the seperate hot/cold knobs are controlled by seperate valves behind each knob….correct? Is there a test I can perform to determine which (or both) knob is causing the problem?
austin – Yes!