Tiger has a slow rise formula. If you are doing alot of area, I would do as Alex suggests and hire a contactor that is set up to do it. They may even have an infared camera to make sure the entire cavity is filled.
OP here. Their system calls for drilling 2-3 holes per run and squirting in the foam at half trigger for a specified amount of time (I think it’s 30 or 40 seconds), then moving to the next hole up once the application has set and reapplying again.
I’m aware it won’t be a perfect fill – the goal is to at least limit the air flow within the wall cavity (or better yet, reduce the radiance of the clod through it). I’m fine with a result that’s less than 100% insulation, considering the alternative would be to open things up completely and there’s no way I’m taking down the 100+ year old walls, moldings, etc. to apply insulation. That much work and expense would take a LONG time to break even on the costs. Saving money is the goal here after all…
Tiger foam will probably work well in a direct-spray application as it is a true two-part system rather than the single-parts cans commonly sold at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.
However, I can guarantee you will not be able to simply drill a hole or make a small opening in a wall or ceiling bay and hope to fill it completely.
As soon as the foam hits any snag (cable, bridging, fire block, anything!) it will cling, expand and seal up the rest of the void and make the operation pointless.
My company owns truck based and remote foam spray systems and even with that kind of equipment it is very difficult to properly fill a closed void. We have developed some proprietary techniques to do so, but they are a pain and we still tend to open one or two holes on each end of a bay in such a rare retrofit application. It’s best to strip the drywall or plaster and spray the foam for maximum benefit.
I have not used it, but they have one where you drill a hole and pour it in and it slowly expands to fill the cavity. Not sure how you figure out when to stop filling.
How large of an area are you looking to fill?
Read this great article from one of our customers on cavity filling with our slow rise formula on older homes.
http://www.tigerfoam.com/sprayfoam.php
Also, give us a shout, we’d love to answer any questions you may have! Toll Free 800-664-0063
Tiger has a slow rise formula. If you are doing alot of area, I would do as Alex suggests and hire a contactor that is set up to do it. They may even have an infared camera to make sure the entire cavity is filled.
Jock deBoer, AIA
deBoer Architects
OP here. Their system calls for drilling 2-3 holes per run and squirting in the foam at half trigger for a specified amount of time (I think it’s 30 or 40 seconds), then moving to the next hole up once the application has set and reapplying again.
I’m aware it won’t be a perfect fill – the goal is to at least limit the air flow within the wall cavity (or better yet, reduce the radiance of the clod through it). I’m fine with a result that’s less than 100% insulation, considering the alternative would be to open things up completely and there’s no way I’m taking down the 100+ year old walls, moldings, etc. to apply insulation. That much work and expense would take a LONG time to break even on the costs. Saving money is the goal here after all…
Anyone used this product? Is it easy to apply?
Tiger foam will probably work well in a direct-spray application as it is a true two-part system rather than the single-parts cans commonly sold at Home Depot, Lowes, etc.
However, I can guarantee you will not be able to simply drill a hole or make a small opening in a wall or ceiling bay and hope to fill it completely.
As soon as the foam hits any snag (cable, bridging, fire block, anything!) it will cling, expand and seal up the rest of the void and make the operation pointless.
My company owns truck based and remote foam spray systems and even with that kind of equipment it is very difficult to properly fill a closed void. We have developed some proprietary techniques to do so, but they are a pain and we still tend to open one or two holes on each end of a bay in such a rare retrofit application. It’s best to strip the drywall or plaster and spray the foam for maximum benefit.
-spkconstruction.com
I have not used it, but they have one where you drill a hole and pour it in and it slowly expands to fill the cavity. Not sure how you figure out when to stop filling.
Jock deBoer, AIA
deBoer Architects