Permits Required?
We’ve been given approval by our Coop to install a W/D. The area where it’s going shares a wall w. the water pipes for the bathroom [side note: the prev owners redid the bathroom and now there’s a panel access to the pipes on the side of the wall the w/d will go]. There is…
We’ve been given approval by our Coop to install a W/D. The area where it’s going shares a wall w. the water pipes for the bathroom [side note: the prev owners redid the bathroom and now there’s a panel access to the pipes on the side of the wall the w/d will go]. There is a window to vent the dryer right there, so that’s not a problem. While there’s an outlet not too far from the installation point, we would ideally like to install an additional outlet on its own circuit: which would require running a new electrical line a decent ways to the circuit box. Also, one of the plumbers said even though the panel to access the water was right there, he would need to break through the wall to access the proper discharge pipe. My questions here are: what’s necessary? What’s necessary for paperwork/filing for the city? We’re going to use bonded plumbers/electricians…but apart from that, I don’t know what we need to do. Do we need an architect to draw up plans? It seems like a lot of hassle for what should be an easy appliance install…but again, I don’t know. Advice/thoughts/input greatly appreciated!
If there is any construction work associated then you need to hire an architect / engineer for the construction work in addition to the plumbing. The plumbing description should qualify as an LAA (Limited Alteration Application). The advantage of an LAA is that you don’t need to file plans which needs drawings done by a licensed proffessional (architect / engineer) but an LAA is NOT for construction and the limitation is cost up to 25K in plumbing. Electrical work is done through a seperate permit under th BEC (Bureau of Electrical Control) which if you have a construction permit the licensed electrician can associate his work woth that. In general, A licensed plumber and electrician will know what the law is and a LMP will know if you qualiy for an LAA but a contractor usually are nit that experienced what is considered ordinary maintenance / monor work that is exempt and what is not. It is a little tricky but the differnce in paperwork is huge so have the following guideleines for you:
Electrical: Get a licensed electrician regardless
Plumbing: Be very open with your licensed plumber if it woukd qualify as an LAA or you will need a schedule “b” that autimatically requires plans
Construction: If you are not doing any NEW work, Not opening up holes within a fire rated assembly then you are ok as is. If you need more info. e-mail me @ brooklynexpediter@gmail.com with more details to make a correct and unbiased assumption
Thanks, all for your feedback/questions/comments. All our coop requires is bonded plumbers/electricians. We may consider just running the heavy-duty, 220V extension cord at first; if that ends up blowing the circuit, we can always add the additional outlet. And we had been advised about the drip pan & automatic shut-off valve, which seem like smart things to do, regardless of floor & liability [and we are on the 3rd floor, so we are above someone else].
And yes — the access panel does provide very easy access to the hot/cold water supply. It’s really the drainage aspect – & breaking through the wall – that we were concerned with.
Okay — last question: we are having contractors, plumbers and electricians coming in and giving us estimates — should they know what’s required by law to make sure this is all above board? i.e., will they know what actions require permits and what actions don’t; or if we need to get an architect in to draw up plans to file with the city, or not; or if we need to get a city inspector in there after the work is done for approval? Or are those things we – as owners – need to know about and make sure they do?
Again – all your thoughts/comments/further questions are appreciated!
You can also get a Floodstop (imsr) electronic water monitor pad which you put under the washer; if it detects water it shuts off the supply. Worth the $100 or so.
I bought this small screw on pressure gauge that has two needles, One that registers the current water pressure and another that records the HIGHEST pressure over a length of time. Left on over night I was surprised by the wild (much greater) difference in water pressure that happens around 2-3am. That’s when your defective washer hose is going to pop.
Thirdly what IMBY said, regardless of what floor you’re on.
Second what IMBY said. If it leaks and causes damage below, you will be laible.
Not sure what floor you are on but i would seriously consider an overflow/drip pan and automatic water shut off valves for the washing machine. They also make high pressure heavy duty supply hoses.
What does your Coop require, aside from licensed/bonded trades?
I am assuming thatthe access panel that the previous owners installed grants decent access to both hot and cold water feeds. These will be necessary for a washer.
Why the wall would have to be broken out has to do with the far larger waste and vent stack, necessary to install a trap (to prevent sewer gas from exiting the washer drain), and a vent so pumped sudsy water doesn’t back up out, for instance a tub drain.
The drain for the washer also has to be about 30″ up from the floor, so the trap, and vent will be basically the whole wall.
This will require licensed plumber/permit etc.
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