Insulation in Old Houses
We live in a detached wood-frame Victorian in Ditmas Park, and we would like to consult someone about an insulation question. Specifically, our kitchen is currently gutted down to the studs, and we would like some advice as to whether to add wall insulation before closing up the walls. Despite the current mania for insulating…
We live in a detached wood-frame Victorian in Ditmas Park, and we would like to consult someone about an insulation question. Specifically, our kitchen is currently gutted down to the studs, and we would like some advice as to whether to add wall insulation before closing up the walls. Despite the current mania for insulating everything in sight, old houses are constructed differently from modern houses, and wall insulation is often not recommended for a number of good reasons. We are looking for someone who is very knowledgeable about energy conservation, air movement, and moisture issues in old houses who can advise us on this question. If you have any recommendations or referrals, we would certainly appreciate it. Thanks!
Thanks for all the responses. We will most likely insulate as per suggestions here.
As for our windows, we are lucky enough to have our original wood windows and are in the process of restoring them. Once reglazed and weatherstripped, with a good quality storm window they will be more energy efficient than replacement windows and should easily last another 100 years. For more information on the efficiency of restored wood windows, see the National Park Service Preservation on energy conservation in historic houses.
Here’s a link to the preservation brief: http://www.nps.gov/hps/tps/briefs/brief03.htm#Retrofitting%20Measures
Vapor barrier is always on the warm side of the wall. Batt insulation can be purchased with an integral vapor barrier of kraft paper or foil. Spray Polyurethane foam has an integral vapor barrier.
Ed Kopel Architects, PC
When I get around to doing my florida room, I will post a review. Looks easy to use.
Two cool things on the “Tiger Foam” link: you can buy Tyvek jumpsuits for only $11 (think of the Halloween customization possibilities) and you can e-mail someone called “Mr. Foam.” Actually, it sounds like a good product, I may consider it for our Victorian hollow-wall icebox. (We put batts with vapor barriers in the walls we gutted to the studs, the rest is still open and we freeze…)
so you have more drafty windows than walls in your kitchen and are worried about the vapor from cooking? If you do insulated, and get new windows AND do the airsealing correct, you would need to ventilate….
otherwise, insulate with a vapor barrier (6 mil plastic, so you create an airbarrier too) while the walls are open and call it a day.
also, a good fan is not noisy…
Insulate, if you are a diy’er, check this out. Inexpensive spray foam for small spaces and they are somewhat local. http://www.tigerfoam.com/products.php
Your kitchen has windows so crack a window when cooking, otherwise put in a hood over the range.
Jock deBoer, AIA
deBoer Architects
Well, one reason not to insulate is that we have so many exterior doors and windows in the room that there is not much wall to insulate; therefore we are unsure whether it will even make a difference. And if all the walls in our kitchen are filled solid and a proper vapor barrier installed, where will all the moisture that we create from cooking go? We’re not sure that we want to have to run a noisy exhaust fan every time we cook. Then there are the potential problems that could result if the vapor barrier is not properly installed. Currently the moisture we create in the kitchen goes out through the walls and we have no problems.
Grand Army, on the subject of interior storms you might want to check out the forums at historichomeworks.com. I think interior storms would help, and heavy curtains or even simple roller blinds would help as well.
I would recommend a green approach of using a soy based spray insulation, either open cell or closed cell. Open cell insulation is cheaper, and would require a vapor barrier on the inside. An advantage of closed cell insulation is that no vapor barrier is required, but it will cost you a bit more.
Kyle Page, AIA, LEED AP
Sundial Studios Architecture & Design, PLLC
“Done right”, as Bob says, means using a vapor barrier (and making sure the vapor barrier is on the right side of the vapor…).