I’m looking at buying a federal-style townhouse in Cobble Hill that has a brick front facade and was built in the late 1800’s. As part of the renovation I would do, I’d like to have exposed brick on the interior of the party walls but the current walls have a plaster interior surface and I don’t know what is behind the plaster. The seller doesn’t know either. Does anybody know if the perimeter walls of buildings of that style/vintage were normally constructed of brick? If yes, does that normally mean that I could strip the plaster off the interior of the party walls and have exposed brick?


Comments

  1. I had sections of wall that previous owners had exposed (the brick) and you should know that it was always dirty–fine dirt came through the crack between wall and ceiling and between the bricks themselves. We eventually covered all the exposed brick. As an owner of a house in Cobble Hill that had so much of it’s original detail removed, I would beg of you to reconsider removing the plaster. Plaster is a wonderful surface to live with and very costly to ever re-install. If you’d love a more modern space, could you please purchase a loft or new construction and leave the 150-year-old rowhouse to an owner who will love it for what it is? If you need a good plasterer, I can recommend Thad Simerley.

  2. Whats being discussed is the difference between a common or building brick and a face brick. Both have structural integrety but the latter will have a finer more presentable finish. The side walls of brownstones are common brick. If you expose them and there are defective bricks just tooth in new ones to match them. Any mason will be familiar with this. Ed Kopel Architects, PC

  3. FYI — I have lived in an apartment with exposed brick in one part. No sound issues that I could detect. I didn’t pay for heat, so I can’t comment on the insulation question.

  4. If you’re absolutely set on having an exposed brick interior, you could always remove the plaster and “laminate” a layer of veneer bricks. These are about 1/3 the thickness of regular brick and come in different looks, including antique (very hard to tell from the original — they are made of real brick, not a different material). Not an inexpensive option but this way you would make up for the loss in sound proofing and heat insulation and be in control of the pointing (ie. able to choose the color of the mortar etc).

  5. Take your hand and make a fist and punch the wall in question as hard as humanly possible. If it feels solid it might be brick.
    To be on the safe side best to punch it every few square feet to determine whether it is of a consistent nature as above posters mention.

    When removing plaster from brick you should consider repointing.

  6. I meant lock into a contract with the contractor, not contract to buy the house, btw. If you like the house whatever the final wall finish, go ahead.