I am wondering if anyone can offer me a solution. I have what I believe to be a standard skylight, (not the hatch) below it is approx. 18″ of boxed in sheetrock and than decorative stain-glass. I’ve notice an extreme difference in temperature from my 1st and 2nd floor to my 3rd, which is very chilly. In attempt to correct the problem I took one of the stained glasses down and taped plastic between the skylight and the glass. It probably helped the problem alittle, but it’s still drafty and now I can here the sound of the plastic moving from the cold. Can anyone offer me any solutions?


Comments

  1. I put silicone on every seam there was on my skylights and also used the spray foam that expands in areas where it was sealed between the room and the unit itself. It made a big difference. You also may try using plexy as a barrier between the skylight and the rooms.

  2. Is this one of those 100 year old original top of the stair well, wire glass sitting in a galvanized tin pyramid shaped frame, with a tin cap at the peak or ridge type of skylights? If there are no openings in the 18″ boxed in section of sheet rock above the stained glass leading to the attic space you can simply go up to the roof and stuff a section of that soft black foam tube pipe insulation up and under the ridge of that metal cap. It fits in snugly and doesn’t fall out. This tin ridge cap is actually a vent that is allowing your rising warm air to escape, and on windy days like today, cold air from the outside to be force back in. I do this every fall and it makes a big difference in my heating bills. In the Spring i go up and pull it back out. You can also go up there with some 6 mill clear plastic and a roll of duct tape and just wrap the whole thing making sure the tape is tight and secure at the base. This will last until Spring before it starts to break down. I have also seen old pictures of brownstones where they would hang these big heavy velvet curtains across open doorways to cut down on drafts.

  3. We have the same issue. 2 skylights, massive drafts, especially in the last few days. Brrr.

    But we really don’t have easy access to our roof. Anyone know how else could we cut down the draft if we can’t do what dave suggests above? I had visions of a clear plastic, inflatable something that can be pumped up in the shaft below the skylights. Heh.

  4. Hi
    Usually when the weather changes, the hard plastic that surrounds the glass, looses its shape. Thus, letting in cold air into any window. This makes the owner have to change the windows (some people thing by simply doing what they do to it, it will solve the problem but it only is a temporary fix, you will eventually have to get it replaced. When fixing it, regardless of Contractor, have them put something called shims to the sides and top frames of the windows (when he removes the old one…you will need to tell them before ordering the windows, because they have to cater for this). If they said that’s not necessary or they don’t know what you’re talking about, don’t hire them. We are a General Contractor and we do this with all of our windows (not a lot of people know this helps to give the windows a bit of a longer life). If you do decide on replacing it and would like to contact us, You can reach either me or my partner a the number below to make an appointment to get a free estimate.

    Thanks
    Sooknarine Sookhai (aka. Dinesh)
    Christine Stephen (partner)
    Eagle Construction
    (347) 227-5834

  5. Is it vented on the sides before you get to the glass at the top? This is pretty standard and the heat just flows right out the skylight.

    I encountered this problem. I went up on the roof and wrapped the sides that were vented in rigid foam insulation and taped the hell out of the corners and edges with aluminum tape (not duct tape). Additionally if you build a small 1″ ledge around the top of the drywall shaft you can support a piece of plexiglass that will form an additional area of insulation and still let the light through.