How To: Plastering Where Wall-meets-Ceiling Curved Radius?
I am skim coating (lightweight joint compound over plaster) for the first time. I’m using a 6†taping knife and things are working out OK. However, this is a pre-war building and there is a curved radius where the wall meets the ceiling, instead of a sharp right angle as seen in contemporary structures ….
I am skim coating (lightweight joint compound over plaster) for the first time. I’m using a 6†taping knife and things are working out OK. However, this is a pre-war building and there is a curved radius where the wall meets the ceiling, instead of a sharp right angle as seen in contemporary structures
. The radius is about 1-1.5â€. Past chumps had made a little bit of a mess in this area. Instead of a smooth radius curve, it has ridges in areas where obviously the wrong tools/skillset/techniques were employed.
I am now facing the same challenge. How do I get a smooth transition from wall-to-ceiling , keeping the curved radius with the joint compound? Is there an inexpensive tool to use? The taping knife isn’t cutting it.
I need to do this on a super minimal budget because I do not own, I rent the space and I am doing the work out of my own pocket (to preempt the expected questions: I am rent regulated, lived here for decades, will likely live here decades more, great place, but landlord is out of the picture).
Thanks.
It looks like I have a solution.
I cut a circular profile from the plastic lid of a joint compound bucket. I use it as like squeegee running it lengthwise along the cove leaving a thin coating of compound.
When dry, I will follow-up with a repeat coat, then after that, touch up any gaps.
One question in general about skim coats. I’m using premixed lightweight joint compound because it is easier to sand. After the 1st coat dried, I knocked down any lines and high points with the taping knife. Then, I went back in with a 220 drywall sanding screen to level out any areas that needed it. After 2nd coat and then a third touch up coat to fill pinholes and errors, for my final finish should I fine sand with sandpaper or should I strive to get the last coat applied smooth enough to not need to sand?
Thanks again.
It looks like I have a solution.
I cut a circular profile from the plastic lid of a joint compound bucket. I use it as like squeegee running it lengthwise along the cove leaving a thin coating of compound.
When dry, I will follow-up with a repeat coat, then after that, touch up any gaps.
One question in general about skim coats. I’m using premixed lightweight joint compound because it is easier to sand. After the 1st coat dried, I knocked down any lines and high points with the taping knife. Then, I went back in with a 220 drywall sanding screen tolevel out any areas that needed it. After 2nd coat and then a third touch up coat to fill pinholes, etc., for my final finish should I fine sand with sandpaper or should I strive to get the last coat applied smooth enough to not need to sand?
Thanks again.
Thanks for all the ideas.
What sort of powdered compound should I be using instead of the lightweight joint compound?
Rubber spatula. Worked for me. The small kind. 1 – 1.5 inch
Our plaster actually used a snapple bottle to smooth out the curve (replicating a curve) in our bedroom. It sounds like your curve has a sharper radius, what about a Redbull can? They are smaller and likely would hold up better than a paper towel roll.
Sorry to not be more helpful,
Brooklyn.
Not knowing much about plastering but here’s my 2c: could you not get a plastic blade and snip it to the contour of the cove? As for the original stuff, I’d think you’d either have to sand or otherwise get rid of spots too lumpy for the contour anyway, no?
What do you mean by modifying the knife edges? You mean filing both sharp corners?
I’m still not getting a clear picture in my mind.
The coves are not devastated; I’m just trying to smooth the curves out.
The curves ARE the last thing. The room is ready to go except for the curves. The walls are sweet planes. There’s some rough 220 sheetrock screen marks which need sanding out, otherwise the walls like nice.
I’m using lightweight joint compound. I’ve been thinning in successive applications. I’m shooting for 3(+) applications.
What exactly is the benefit of mixing my own compound? What working properties does it have? What product is recommended?
I almost feel that either a slightly longer (not wider) blade and/or a more flexible blade would make turning the contour easier.
Because the inside radius of the cove (about 1â€-1.5†radius) has already been grooved by poor paint/plaster work in the past, when I swing the semi-stiff spatula upwards it tends to ride along the grooves and repeat them instead of gliding over them and laying down a swath of compound. Perhaps the compound is an issue in the way it applies and allows me to work back into it (or not work back into it). It doesn’t feel very forgiving.
Thanks for all the ideas!
No way I could afford to pay someone to do this.
As Smokychimp already said get rid of the “bucket mud” and switch to “hot mud”. After the initial application you will need to water trowel the cove. Clean you knife with water and splash or spritz the cove with water to break the friction. If you do it correctly you will not need to sand.
Also, if you modify your knife so the edges don’t touch it will make it a lot smoother.
There… I have exhausted my knowledge of plastering techniques(almost).