Soundproofing Question
I’m thinking about adding some soundproofing to a common wall (represented by the red line above) using a layer of drywall and some Green Glue. Considering that the neighbor’s front door shares a small chunk of hallway off the main stairs with mine, and the doors don’t do much to keep out noise, would this…
I’m thinking about adding some soundproofing to a common wall (represented by the red line above) using a layer of drywall and some Green Glue. Considering that the neighbor’s front door shares a small chunk of hallway off the main stairs with mine, and the doors don’t do much to keep out noise, would this have any effect at all?
Thanks!
Gilbertbuttos, you work for that company for crying out loud. That’s SPAM, digging up old threads.
Besides, you have to use 4x as much glue, so where’s your bargain?
Hi JamesW,
I compared the prices. QuietGlue is 20% cheaper than GreenGlue.
It will be a better option.
QuietRock has drywall, damping compound and more, which saves a lot of time and work. That’s why it costs that much.
Herbert,
It looks to me that you built a triple leaf wall and that is why you think that the Green Glue is taking a year to cure. It probably cured within the first 30 days, but when you added the resilient channel over the first layers and then put more layers on top of that you created a small air pocket and that is why you can still hear some of those sounds. If you could open up your wall and take out those “resilient bars” you would have a better performing wall.
I have a terraced house in London. On one side I have a party wall that joins next door’s hall and kitchen.
When they were talking in the kitchen I could hear every word they were saying and when they used pots and banged things down it was as if it was in my house-it was that loud and clear.
The walls are nine inch brick with plaster on top.
I stuck plasterboard with green glue directly onto the wall.
I then stuck another layer of green glue and plastboard onto that.
I then used resilient bars and put another two sheets of plasterboard with green glue between them on top of that.
Now I can hardly hear anything at all except when they bang things down in the kitchen I can hear the impact noise, although it is somewhat muffled.
The green glue took several months to cure-it fact it still seems to be improving over a year later, possibly because the number of layers I’ve used has stopped it from drying.
What is an inner wall?
What the data says is that the introduction of a small air cavity is a liability. See their exhaustive study “Control of Sound Transmission through Gypsum Board Walls.” It’s online and a good read. http://irc.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/pubs/ctus/1_e.html
Also here: http://irc.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/pubs/bsi/85-3_e.html
Some of these findings are perhaps counter-intuitive.
In other words, your contention is that no inner wall works as well as one with only a 2″ air gap?
The insulation in the small airspace does not remove the liability. Lab tests confirm this. If you can’t have a gap bigger than 2″, leave no gap.
Good question about the cement board. In this case, mass is mass, so generally the cheapest source is most practical. That’s why 5/8″ drywall is so effective. Cheap, easy to use and heavy.
The “proprietary” boards like quiet rock and supress use a damping compound inside two sheets of standard 1/4″ drywall or cement board. Build your own with green glue, save the $$ and have a heavier, more thoroughly damped wall as a result.
Some studios line the walls with lead sheets made for the radiology industry. I dunno what the building codes are for that would be though.
That’s why I suggested stuffing with insulation, not for mass but to reduce the airborne transmission of sound.
As far as massing is considered, I wonder whether 2 layers cement board which is cheap and heavy would be as good as the more expensive proprietary boards. Of course you want structural integrity too, or the entire heavy wall will act as a diaphragm.