So we are hoping to buy a home soon. My wife and I both have pretty good credit (I think!) My FICO scores come in at:

TU-705
EQ-730
EX-685

My wife has even better then this. MY CPA tells me that this is good enough to get a good jumbo rate for the 1.2m that we are looking to take out with 500k down. Does anyone have any insite on this? Can anyone post there FICO score and rate they got?


Comments

  1. My own credit score 537 Few months back i have paid off all bills, with a 0 balance, there were a couple that were charge offs. But one lender said to even consider they want 580, for a mortgage. He said that he will send us the credit report. I am trying to get a mortgage to purchase a home in this state, for 99 or less. How long do I have to wait, or how can I get my rate up to 580 + sooner??
    http://www.Repair-BadCredit.com

  2. My own credit score 537 Few months back i have paid off all bills, with a 0 balance, there were a couple that were charge offs. But one lender said to even consider they want 580, for a mortgage. He said that he will send us the credit report. I am trying to get a mortgage to purchase a home in this state, for 99 or less. How long do I have to wait, or how can I get my rate up to 580 + sooner??
    http://www.Repair-BadCredit.com

  3. My own credit score 537 Few months back i have paid off all bills, with a 0 balance, there were a couple that were charge offs. But one lender said to even consider they want 580, for a mortgage. He said that he will send us the credit report. I am trying to get a mortgage to purchase a home in this state, for 99 or less. How long do I have to wait, or how can I get my rate up to 580 + sooner??
    [url=http://www.Repair-BadCredit.com]Repair Bad Credit Score[/url]

  4. I am a mortgage banker and I would be happy to answer any of your questions. First, rate do move daily so beaware that if you get a quote today it can move by tomorrow. Your do you a good credit score. A loan’s rate is factor on much more than just a credit score. Proof of income, down payment and past mortgage history come into play. I think your down payment is a good amount and should qualify for the top tier of rates. There is a big differnce in rate between conformin (417k) and non conforming. I attched an article I wrote recently that may help you. I can be reached anytime at 646 584 8009…I wish you the best of luck.

    Becoming Lender-Attractive and Financially Comfortable
    *Brian Scott Cohen

    Buying property and refinancing in the United States has changed. Recent headlines regarding the mortgage industry have not been pretty. Potential purchasers have backed out of contracts, mortgage lenders have pulled back funds at the closing table, and banks have borrowed money to stay afloat. For loan-seekers, the days of 100% financing and stated income loans are fading away. Banks are returning to traditional loan products that require larger down payments and proof of income.
    When choosing the right home to buy or the right program to refinance into, remember that there are good deals and bad deals, but no deal is worse than a home you cannot afford. Buying a home in today’s market should be viewed as a long term investment that provides financial security, a shelter to raise a family, and a possible tax deduction.
    In today’s mortgage market, there is a large discrepancy in rates between conforming loans (up to $417k) and jumbo loans (over $417k) on single family homes, condos, and co-ops. For example, the rate on a 30-year fixed, $417k mortgage would be about 1% lower than on 30-year fixed, $418k loan. Your home’s price and your down payment amount will also affect your interest rate and the way your loan is structured. To minimize monthly payments, it is common to structure a loan into a first and second mortgage, with the first mortgage not exceeding the conforming limit of $417k, and the second mortgage reflecting the remaining loan amount.
    Who consumers choose as their mortgage lender and banker has become increasingly more important. A year ago, as long as the customer had a pulse, he or she could get a mortgage. Today, working with the right person and institutional lender is very important.
    Below are some things to look out for when looking to buy or refinance your home.
    Borrowing Power. I recommend starting your mortgage process early so that you can determine your borrowing power. Your borrowing power depends on your total income and your overall liabilities. The first step in determining your borrowing power is to obtain a copy of your credit report and make sure it is accurate. Your credit score, which may be provided by your lending institution but not always by a credit reporting agency, is a critical factor in borrowing money. Second, you should make a list of your income, including your yearly salary, bonuses, rental income (if borrower owns an investment property), inheritance, and alimony (if applicable). Third, make a list of all of your monthly expenses (rent, bills, food, clothing, transportation, entertainment) and debts (credit card, student debt). Finally, and most importantly, make sure that your overall debts are below 38% of your total income (called debt-ratio). Your debt-ratio is a key figure that banks consider in determining whether, and how much, to lend. For example, if you make $3000 a month and have no debt, your mortgage payment cannot be higher that $1140, or 38% of your gross income. Note that this $1140 figure includes taxes, insurance, and maintenance/common charges (if applicable).
    What Kind of Loan is Right for Me? One of the most common things I hear when a client is looking to refinance a home is, “I did not understand what kind of loan I took out.” Make sure you understand how the loan works—is your rate adjustable or fixed, are you paying principal and interest or interest only, is your loan a negative amortization loan, and is there a pre-payment penalty—are common questions that borrowers should ask. Borrowers should also ask about the lending institution’s origination fees.
    What is the Cost of Borrowing Money? Many first-time buyers do not know the cost of borrowing money. A person with a 700+ FICO score and a 6.5% interest rate should expect to spend approximately $625 per month for every $100k borrowed based on a 30-year mortgage (payment will vary depending on the product and your overall situation).
    Closing Costs. While most home buyers are aware of the down payment, many are not aware of the closing costs associated with buying or refinancing a property. Your home’s purchase price, property type, and the county in which it is located will determine your range of closing costs. The range will be between 1% of the purchase price on the low end (co-ops), and 5% of the purchase price on the high end (new construction condos, houses, or townhouses). If the transaction is a refinance, closing costs in NYC’s five boroughs will be anywhere between 2%–5% of the overall loan amount. So when you evaluate your assets, make sure to keep the closing costs in mind.
    Necessary Documents. There are certain documents that must be compiled to effectuate the loan process. Typically, you will need to provide 2 years worth of W2s and/or income tax returns, pay stubs covering the most recent 30 days of employment, and asset statements showing your cash reserves. Cash reserves are the amount of cash left after subtracting your closing costs and down payment, which typically ranges anywhere from 5%–20% on houses and condos and 20%-30% on co-ops, from your assets. Ample cash reserves make you a stronger candidate for obtaining a mortgage and passing a coop board.
    Pre-qualification vs. Commitment. A pre-qualification letter just states your name and approval amount and may be written by almost any broker or lending institution. A commitment, on the other hand, is a more formal and accurate document that has been approved by a bank’s underwriting department and states your approval and approval terms. You want a commitment.
    The suggestions provided in this article will put you ahead of the average new home buyer and individual looking to refinance. Following these principles will increase your chances of obtaining a loan within your means.

  5. you should talk to the broker we used when we bought a few months back, we were first time buyers and had all your questions PLUS. his name is Ari @ Landmark Funding Group #212-710-8680

  6. You may also want to check out lendingtree.com — we used that for a refinance on one house and used them to get bids for another. If it still works the same way as it did a few years ago, it matches you up wityh three offers (you get the rate, costs, etc.). One word of caution — when you get quotes, either from a broker, bank, or lendingtree, they will run a credit check — and if done too many times it will lower your credit score.

  7. Thank you, mortgage broker.
    It was very helpful for me ( I am not an original poster). I have almost the same credit score, but the difference is tat we think about refinancing and we have about 800K (around 40%) equity in our house. Rental income raised as well. It pays about 80% or mortgage.
    But the minus is that now we go on one income. I had to quit my job for family reasons.
    When we got our mortgage (initially), we had 2 W2s but only 10% down in equity.

    We got very good rate back then, but it will expire in 2 years. Now we are trying to guess should we refinance now or test our lack on rates and wait till I will return to work.

    From your post I gather that 40% equity in the house has more weight then another 100K in W2.

  8. I am a mortgage broker. The middle score is the primary score used.

    Rates depend on a number of things. Your credit score is one. Your income is another. Are you W2’d or self employed. If self employed, your income used will be your adjusted gross income (after deductions). Is this enough to support the mortgage? If W2’d, is this enough to support the mortgage. You must keep all the other payments on your credit report in mind as well, ex. car payments, credit card payments, student loans, etc. If self employed, the bank will want to look at a two year history, and probably average the two.

    Rates also depend on the type of house – single family, two family, three family, etc.

    They also depend on your liquid assets. On how much of a down payment you are putting down – your LTV – loan to value (of the house), the lower the better. Also on the loan amount – whether it is a conforming amount or a jumbo loan.

    Chris

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