Walkabout: The Gold Street Explosion, part 1



(Brooklyn’s wooden tenement buildings. Photo: Brooklyn Public Library)

You know those sequences in movies and documentaries where the camera stays stationary while the world changes around it in seasons, years or centuries? A seed germinates, grows, blossoms and then dies, or buildings and cultures rise and fall over centuries? A look at the area of Brooklyn we now call DUMBO would be a fascinating study for such a time sequence. The shoreline that the Canarsee people fished from would become a Dutch outpost, a settlement, and then the growing village of Breukelen. That town would grow, and the same area that once held clapboard houses, one-story shops and taverns, stables and businesses, would grow to include brick homes, large commercial warehouses and offices for the import and export of goods, and other businesses and crafts tailoring themselves to the shipping manufacturing industries that hugged the East River and New York Bay. The village of Brooklyn had become a town, and that town would become a city. (more…)

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Walkabout: Trashing Atlantic Avenue, part 2



(Atlantic Avenue, near Nostrand. 1920. Photo: Brooklyn Public Library)

In March of 1912, the Real Estate Record and Builder’s Guide, the bible of late 19th and early 20th century building in New York City, published a long article about the future of Atlantic Avenue, that great east-west corridor that joins the East River to Queens. In our first chapter, we saw that development of Atlantic Avenue depended greatly on the operations and machinations of the Long Island Railroad. For more on this, please read chapter one. Due to the railroads path, on or above the avenue, it seemed, even in 1912, that the avenue would never be more than garages and factories. Going on from there, the article stated that “It is a significant and a lamentable fact that a majority of the sales of real estate on Atlantic Avenue have been in foreclosure.” (more…)

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Walkabout: Trashing Atlantic Avenue, part 1



(Railroad crossing at Atlantic and Bedford Avenues, 1905. Photo: New York Public Library)

Atlantic Avenue is one of Brooklyn’s great thoroughfares, today stretching from the East River waterfront to Jamaica, Queens. It is Brooklyn’s only east-west truck route, and serves a vital purpose in getting goods and people from Long Island to the East River and beyond. Like much of Brooklyn, its origins lie with Dutch settlement, and in fact it began as a private road, ending at Ralph Patchen’s farm on the East River, in the early 1700s.

As Brooklyn grew, that road became District Street, the southernmost boundary of the Village of Brooklyn, which was incorporated in 1816. That’s certainly hard to imagine now, and it didn’t take long for that to be obsolete. By 1855, as the street grid developed, District Street became Atlantic Street, running parallel to Pacific Street next door. In the 1870’s the street, already a busy thoroughfare, became an Avenue, running all the way to Nassau County. (more…)

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Walkabout: America’s Best Bad Actor, Corse Payton, 2



(Corse Payton, Etta Reed Payton and servant, backstage at their theater, 1903. Photo: Museum of the City of New York)


In our last post, we met Corse Payton, self-billed as “America’s Best Bad Actor.” He enjoyed an extremely popular stage career at the end of the 19th century, working well into the Depression years. Like many New York City success stories, Payton’s began in the Midwest, as a county sheriff’s wayward son, in a town called Centerville, Iowa. For more of his early exploits, please see Part One of our story.

After many years of successfully touring Midwestern states and cities, Corse Payton, along with his wife and leading lady, Etta Reed, turned their sights to New York, specifically Brooklyn. The Great White Way of Manhattan’s theater district was legendary, but so too was Brooklyn’s huge collection of theaters, spread throughout the city. Downtown Brooklyn was one large theater hub. Another was Williamsburg, and it was here that their company put down roots. From here they could take all of New York by storm. (more…)

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Walkabout: America’s Best Bad Actor, Corse Payton


Does anyone remember the Saturday Night Live sketches by Jon Lovitz featuring his “Master Thespian”? Mr. Thespian was an outrageous ham, over enunciating everything, indicating broadly, affecting a bad upper-crust accent, and in general, being everything that anyone could possibly want in a bad actor, all wrapped up in a dapper smoking jacket. Corse Payton was the living embodiment of the Master Thespian. Between 1900 and 1915, he operated his own theater in Brooklyn, called Corse Payton’s Lee Avenue Theater, in Williamsburg. He made a career out of bad acting, and probably cut a fine figure in a smoking jacket as well. He would be the first to tell you so, too. But backstage, the ultimate ACT-tor was a brilliant business mind and a keen observer of popular culture. This is his story. Like many contemporary Brooklyn stories, it begins, most auspiciously, on a farm in Iowa. (more…)

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Walkabout: The Lords of Owl’s Head, part 3



(Photo: Matt, for imjustwalkin.com)

When the Brooklyn industrialist Eliphalet W. Bliss died in 1903, he stipulated in his will that his estate, called Owl’s Head, should become a city park, open for the enjoyment of all. Owl’s Head, aka the Bliss Estate, was a large property nestled on the promontory overlooking the Narrows, in the neighborhood of Bay Ridge. Before Bliss, the estate had belonged to a former mayor of Brooklyn, a man named Henry C. Murphy, who was indeed one of the great movers and shakers of mid-19th century Brooklyn. In the first chapter of our story, we learned that Murphy had been the legislator who wrote the bill authorizing the Brooklyn Bridge. That bill was signed here in his home at Owl’s Head. Our second chapter told the tale of E.W. Bliss, whose huge munitions and metal stamping plants in Bush Terminal could be seen from his front porch, a highly successful man who built an observation tower on the property so he could see for miles around, watching the sea traffic in the great bay below. Nearby streets still reference the estate’s past owners, Bliss Terrace for E.W., and Senator Street, for Henry Murphy. (more…)

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Walkabout: The Lords of Owl’s Head, part 2



(Original design for Owl’s Head Stables, by Parfitt Brothers, as published in a German architectural magazine. Illustration: periodpapers.com)

High above what is now the Narrows of New York Bay, the movement of a vast glacier moving towards the sea millions of years ago created a hill overlooking the great bay, one that afforded a view of great beauty. The Canarsee people appreciated this view, as did the Dutch who came after them. The land and the view was also quite desirable for Henry C. Murphy, one of Brooklyn’s most admired men, a scholar, attorney, State Senator, Mayor of Brooklyn, founder of the Brooklyn Daily Eagle, and the Brooklyn Historical Society, Congressman and philanthropist. A very busy man. A man of this importance needs a place to get away from the hustle and bustle, and Mr. Murphy did so by buying this most desirable of plots, and building a large country villa on it, one that afforded him an unparalleled view of the bay, and the surrounding area. This was the place where Murphy signed the authorization to build the Brooklyn Bridge, and other important legislation. Right here, in Bay Ridge, where another great bridge would one day cross this same bay, many years later. Part one of our story tells Murphy’s tale. When he died in 1882, the house passed on to another powerful man who made a great impact on New York, and the world. His name was Eliphalet W. Bliss. (more…)

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Walkabout: The Lords of Owl’s Head, part 1



(Henry C. Murphy villa, overlooking the Narrows, Bay Ridge. Photo taken in 1915, reflects changes made after Murphy’s ownership. Photo: nycgovparks.)

The shoreline of New York Bay, specifically the Narrows, in Bay Ridge, near the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, is one of Brooklyn’s most naturally beautiful places. Even today, with the highways, the buildings, and the bridge itself, it’s still easy to imagine what Canarsee Indians, then the Dutch, must have thought when seeing it. The bay is a truly beautiful sight.

Bay Ridge is part of New Utrecht, one of the six original towns that make up Kings County. It was settled in 1657 by the Dutch, and for most of its history, until the mid-19th century, was a quiet agrarian community, with farms, country villas, and the small villages of Yellow Hook and nearby Fort Hamilton. Yellow Hook was named for the yellow clay that leeched out of the ground, in all of the area farms, but in 1853, a yellow fever epidemic caused the town fathers to look for another name. Bay Ridge was chosen, named for the terminal moraine that overlooks the bay. It was on this moraine that our story takes form. (more…)

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Walkabout: Brooklyn’s St. George Hotel, part 7


Find a middle class native New Yorker, especially a Brooklynite, over the age of sixty, and you’ll probably find that they’d been to the St. George at least once. They could have been an adult, or a child with their parents. Perhaps it was a special night in one of the restaurants, or ballrooms, or more than likely, it was a trip to the swimming pool. The famous St. George salt water pool was a draw for many in the city, both young and old, as well as for the famous who still flocked to the hotel in the late 1940s and 50s.

The St. George was still THE place to stay in Brooklyn, during the post-war years, and the list of the famous is pretty impressive. Frank Sinatra and his entourage stayed here, as did the following actors and entertainers: Katherine Hepburn, Spencer Tracy, who was a regular, Shelly Winters, Angela Lansbury, Duke Ellington and his orchestra, Tommy Dorsey and his orchestra, and authors Thomas Wolfe and Norman Mailer. Lena Horne, Veronica Lake, Cary Grant and Norma Shearer all had photographs taken at the pool arcade. So too did aquatic actors Johnny Weissmuller, Buster Crabbe and Esther Williams. Leonard Bernstein recorded Tchaikovsky’s Romeo & Juliet fantasy overture with the New York Philharmonic, for Columbia Records, here in the hotel on January 28, 1957. Also that year, Burt Lancaster starred in the movie version of “Sweet Smell of Success”, and one of the scenes took place at the Egyptian Roof Club, in the St. George Tower. (more…)

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Walkabout: Brooklyn’s Hotel St. George, part 6



(Tower Night Club at the Hotel St. George. Photo: St. George Tower Yahoo group)

The Bing & Bing years for the Hotel St. George coincided with some of the best and worst years of the 20th century. The large Manhattan-based real estate development company bought the hotel in 1922, taking over from the Tumbridge family, the original owners of the hotel. Captain William Tumbridge had created a luxury hotel that attracted some of the crème de la crème of Brooklyn and visiting society, and catered to a wealthy clientele that wanted the convenience of a luxury apartment close to Manhattan. The hotel also advertised itself as a “family hotel”, where families could stay a few days, or board for months, or a season, if necessary. By the time the Bing brothers came along, the image of the hotel was slowly changing. They would preside over the hotel’s most storied years, when it became the quintessential middle class retreat; home to vacationing out of towners, conventioneers, wedding guests, and an occasional celebrity. It was also a destination in of itself, with ballrooms, restaurants, nightclubs, bars, and lounges, and oh yeah, that world famous salt water swimming pool.

In order to accommodate the masses, the Bing’s needed more room. The 1924 Emery Roth addition over the subway stop at Clark Street was a masterful engineering feat. It was imperative that the construction of this new 12 story Renaissance Revival building not interfere with the elevators leading to the subway, or the subway tunnels beneath. Roth solved the problem by running his elevators, stairways and mechanics in the adjoining laundry building, running along Henry Street. The added 370 rooms were but the first step, as Roth was now working on the centerpiece of the entire complex, the massive 32 story St. George Tower. This would add another 1,200 rooms to the hotel, making it, at 2,632 rooms, the largest hotel in New York City. (more…)

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Walkabout: Brooklyn’s Hotel St. George, part 5



(Photo: St. George Tower addition: 111Hicksstreet.com)

Welcome back to the St. George. The old hotel still has many stories to tell. In 1922, the Tumbridge family, the sons of Captain William Tumbridge, the original owner and founder, sold the famous hotel to the real estate development firm of Bing & Bing. The Tumbridge years were officially over. William Tumbridge had presided over his hotel’s beginnings, in 1886, from one building, to a sprawling group of buildings that took up most of the block bordered by Henry, Clark, Hicks and Pineapple Streets, in Brooklyn Heights. During those thirty-six years, much had happened in the hotel, good and bad; there were weddings, business meetings, summer stays, and secret trysts. Guests had stayed for years, and others were tossed out personally by Captain Tumbridge for non-payment. There were fistfights, accidental deaths, and at least two suicides. There were walkouts, strikes, and anti-suffragette meetings. You name it, the St. George had seen it, and much more was to come.

Brothers Leo and Alexander Bing were among the biggest and best real estate developers in New York during the first half of the 20th century. They were responsible for many of the finest pre-war apartment buildings being built in Manhattan for the luxury market, mostly on the Upper East Side, but also the Upper West Side, and in Greenwich Village. They paid three million dollars for the hotel. William Tumbridge had championed Brooklyn’s own elite architect, Montrose Morris, to design his main additions to the hotel, but the Bing Brothers had their own golden boy, architect Emery Roth. He designed many of the company’s best Park Avenue buildings, and the Bings chose him to design more wings for the hotel. The first one, completed in 1923, rose on the corner of Henry and Clark Street, giving the hotel the entire street front of that block of Henry and Clark. (more…)

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Walkabout: You’d have to be a saint…Part 2



(St. Peter Claver Church and Fr. Bernard Quinn, from frquinn.org)

African American Catholics have not had an easy time of it in the Church. Historically speaking, black folks have been Catholics since Catholics have been in the Americas, although certainly not sitting as equals in the pews. A few black Catholics have had a great deal of influence in the American Church, in spite of racism and intolerance, and in the last installment we met Pierre and Juliet Toussaint of New York, and, a century later, the Healy brothers, originally from Georgia. The 19th century ended with little progress being made in the Church to integrate black Catholics into the growing fold of American Catholicism.

In 1916, a group of African American Catholics came together as the Committee for the Advancement of Colored Catholics. They were seeking equal care by Catholic organizations such as the Knights of Columbus, for black veterans returning from World War I. The group was interested in opening a dialogue with American bishops, who administered Church policy, to urge them to denounce discrimination, and to meet with black Catholics. They stated in their appeal: “at present we are neither a part of the colored world (Protestant), nor are we generally treated as full-fledged Catholics.” It would take the actions of a few extraordinary people to bring the Church around. One of these people was here in Brooklyn, and this Walkabout is his story. He was Monsignor Bernard J. Quinn. (more…)

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Walkabout: You’d have to be a saint to put up with this



(Pierre and Juliet Toussaint, of New York, prominent African American Catholics)

Yesterday’s Building of the Day was the St. Peter Claver School, located in Bedford Stuyvesant. Researching the building introduced me to Reverend Bernard Quinn, the pastor of St. Peter Claver Church, and a tireless advocate in the Catholic Church for African Americans. He lived and worked during a time when black folk of the Catholic persuasion didn’t have that many friends, not even in the church itself, and as someone who is black, and was raised as a Catholic, I found his story quite interesting and inspiring. Since he was a Brooklyn character, I thought that I would introduce him, and the church community that he founded here in Brownstone Brooklyn, to the Brownstoner audience. It doesn’t matter what you believe or don’t believe. Sometimes there are those individuals in history who are just, well….saints.

A little background first. As long as there have been Catholics in this country, there have been black Catholics, even if they were in chains. The Spanish, especially, were very zealous in converting their African slaves to Catholicism, as were, to a lesser degree, the French. Most of us are passingly familiar with the cultures of the Catholic South, especially in New Orleans, but also in Florida and elsewhere in the South, where Spain, France, Portugal and Africa met. This was true not just in America, but also in the Caribbean, Central and South America. The blending of Catholicism and African religion has given us Vodun and Santeria, a fascinating subject in of itself. (more…)

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Walkabout: Murder in the Cathedral


Like the Hotel St. George itself, the story of that great institution is turning into a massive project. I’m going to take a break, and divert you with this story. The St. George story will be coming back, as exciting and hopping as the Roaring Twenties. The old hotel still holds many more characters and events.

Let’s talk churches for a moment. I love sacred architecture for many reasons, one of them being that in a house of worship, one can see the faith and devotion of those who donated to the building of the structure, perhaps even helped in its building, or furnished it with altar clothes, vestments, and flowers. These people’s names are leaded into stained glass window panes, engraved on plaques discreetly nailed to the back of a pew, or written in delicate script in the records of events long past. Most are long dead and forgotten, but their names linger, as do their gifts to the institution. There’s immortality there, perhaps more than many of us will ever have. Houses of worship make me think the big thoughts, and bring out the philosopher in me. So when I am walking, and see a derelict church, I am both saddened and curious. When I find out there is a tragic and terrible story involved, a murder committed by a churchman, then there is definitely a story to tell. (more…)

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Walkabout: Brooklyn’s Hotel St. George, part 4



(Hotel St. George in 1917)

In the 1980’s, a television show called “Hotel”, aired for about seven years, which chronicled the goings on in a large, swanky hotel in San Francisco called the “St. Gregory”. Guests and staff interacted; love, larceny, and everything in between took place in her corridors and rooms, all under the watch of the hotel manager, played by James Brolin. A hundred years before, that could have been the Hotel St. George, in Brooklyn Heights. James Brolin would have played Captain William Tumbridge, not the manager, but the proprietor of the St. George, Brooklyn’s largest and most elegant hotel. He probably would have done a great job, too, as Tumbridge was rather larger than life, although unlike Brolin, slight of stature.

The Captain had been a real sea captain, a veteran of the Civil War, master of his own ships, even a shipwreck or two, as well as a Wall Street wordsmith. Part One of our story is the sea tale of that part of his life. In Part Two, we learn about his building of a hotel empire, the St. George growing every year since its founding in 1885, to become, by the 1890’s, a 1,000 room residential and traveler’s hotel. In Part Three, the hotel continues to grow, becoming more and more luxurious, catering more than ever to its residential clientele, with elegant amenities and architectural splendor. We also learn a bit more about the rather contentious Captain, a man who was quick to throw anyone out of his hotel that he didn’t approve of, and also quick to throw a punch, when needed. Today, we’ll wrap up the Tumbridge years, filled with more fights, litigation, police action, and sadly, tragedy. (more…)

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Walkabout: Brooklyn’s Hotel St. George, part 3


In the early 1890’s, the Hotel St. George’s owner, Captain William Tumbridge, announced that he had hired one of Brooklyn’s most prominent architects, Montrose W. Morris, to design a new wing for the ever-growing hotel. It was the perfect match. Both men were a bit larger than life, especially in the ego and self-promotion departments, and Morris’ reputation for expertise in designing high end luxury accommodations was well-deserved, as was the St. George’s reputation as Brooklyn’s finest hotel. What could be better? Tumbridge held a press conference at which he stated, “The Hotel St. George now compares favorably with some of the best hotels in the world, but we are going to enlarge the building on the Clark St. side…We are going to have a magnificent entrance, 50 feet wide by 160 feet in depth. It will be decorated by Tiffany & Co, and the desk will be enclosed by cathedral glass of a unique design. Every modern convenience will be introduced in the hotel, and there will be bowling alleys, shuffleboard, a swimming pool and a Turkish bath attached for the amusement and convenience of guests. The present office will be converted into a smoking room, Turkish parlors with Oriental decorations of a most attractive character, and tea parlors. The mosaic tiling on the new office floor will have some novel and beautiful patriotic designs commemorating the events in the war with Spain.”

Tumbridge went on to say that the new wing would incorporate new bachelor’s apartments, a fast growing market, and that the hotel would continue to be the first rate family hotel it had always been. He noted that the St. George had been forced to turn away customers during the last winter, due to lack of space, even though the hotel had almost 800 rooms. The hotel also had huge summer patronage, much of which was from local men who stayed in the city to work, while their families went away for the summer. Rather than be alone in their own homes, these men, Tumbridge said, preferred to summer at the St. George. The new rooms would be able to accommodate them well. (more…)

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Walkabout: Brooklyn’s Hotel St. George, part 2



(1907 postcard of fireplace in the lobby. Hotel St. George, Brooklyn)

Captain William Tumbridge was a true self-made man. Unlike many of his fellow “captains of industry”, Captain Tumbridge was the real deal; an English-born veteran of the US Navy, who fought in the Civil War, and later, was the captain of his own ships, which sailed the seas around the world. His early life story is told in Part One. When he finally settled down in Brooklyn, he decided to build and run the largest and finest hotel in the world. He situated his establishment in Brooklyn Heights, and named it the Hotel St. George, after a tavern that once stood on the same location. The hotel opened in 1885, and it was a grand and immediate success. It was so successful, that in the space of the next fifteen years, he would keep building new wings, until by the turn of the 20th century; there were over 1,000 rooms in the hotel.

Although he left the running of the day to day hotel business to a manager, Tumbridge kept a hands-on approach to his guests and the hotel. He picked the menus for the restaurant, and was generally on-site to both glad-hand and trouble shoot. Tumbridge wanted to run a first class swanky hotel, but somehow, he seemed too often attract the attention that was more reminiscent of a shore leave in a seedy, and dangerous port on the Barbary Coast. (more…)

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Walkabout: Brooklyn’s Hotel St. George, part 1



(Hotel St. George in 1912. Montrose Morris addition to far right.)

The story of the Hotel St. George starts not with the building of New York City’s largest hotel, but with the dreams of a young lad who thought he had found his calling sailing the seas, and an early life that reads like a boy’s adventure story. He was English, born in 1845 to parents living at the Cape of Good Hope, in Cape Town. At the age of four, William Tumbridge’s father died, and his mother took him back to London, on that long voyage from Southern Africa back to Great Britain, where the child learned to love the sea. By the time young Tumbridge was thirteen, he was apprenticed on a brig, called the Satellite, which in 1858, wrecked on a voyage between the Black Sea and Glasgow. The crew was picked up by a fishing boat and left in Malta, where they worked their way back to England. That experience might have finished the seaworthy ambitions of most, but not William Tumbridge. He passed his officer’s examinations at seventeen, and became the second mate on a ship bound for Brazil. From Brazil, he made his way, at last, to America, arriving just in time for the Civil War.

The Union needed experienced sailors, so William Tumbridge enlisted in the American Navy. After a stint at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, he ended up on a vessel called the Tacomy, which was to be part of the northern blockade of southern ports. The trip south was far from comfortable, with too many men crammed onto the ship; so that many had to sleep on the exposed upper decks, and the men were fed by being tossed biscuits into the crowd, like a farmer feeds chickens. When the ship reached Fort Fisher, in North Carolina, Tumbridge was one of a group of volunteers who landed further along the shore to stage a diversion for the main attacking force on the fort. (more…)

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Walkabout: A Parade of Champions, part 2



(Interior of 1028 St. Johns Place, the Carlos Lezama Archives and Museum)

Central Brooklyn has been home to immigrants from the Caribbean Islands since the 1930’s. They came here for the same reasons immigrants from anywhere else came here; in search of a better life for themselves and their families. Some also came to escape oppressive regimes back home, or persecution for their faith, race or ethnic origin, or political beliefs. The history of the various Caribbean Islands is a tale of many histories, many nations, but all come back to the same root: the proliferation of the African slave trade in the New World, and the ramifications of that trade. West Indians come from islands and nations once governed by Britain, France, Holland, Spain and Portugal, and speak the varied languages of those nations. They are a mix of African, European, East Indian, Asian and Native peoples, and all have the rich cultures that have been shaped by their varied histories. But one thing joins them together, both on the islands and here, and that is Carnival. (more…)

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Walkabout: A Parade of Champions, part 1



(1028 St. Johns Place is the third house down. Photo: Googlemaps)

Landmarks aren’t always about great architecture. Sometimes they are great places, because important things happened there, or important people lived or gathered there. Today’s story is about one of those places, an unassuming house on a quiet block of Crown Heights North, called St. Johns Place. It’s a story of a house that is so steeped in cultural history that its legacy runs like a colorful rainbow down nearby Eastern Parkway every Labor Day. That culture is also two-fold, as this house was also once home to one of the most important African American women of the 20th century, Shirley Chisholm. Who would look at it, and think so much happened in this modest home, part of a row of equally modest homes? Ah, but looks can be deceiving. (more…)

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