M. Wells Steakhouse is Reviewed by the New York Times

Today, New York Times dining critic Pete Wells takes to the much-hyped M. Wells Steakhouse, which opened in Long Island City this fall. Here’s what he has to say about Hugue Dufour and Sarah Obraitis’ latest efforts:

M. Wells Steakhouse needs some fixing itself. Discipline is not its strong suit, for better and for worse. It can lurch from magnificence to sloppiness, from inspired fever dreams to inarticulate notions that aren’t ready to leave the kitchen. One thing that needs improvement is the steak. This isn’t as fatal as you’d think, because when M. Wells Steakhouse succeeds, it does so in a deeply satisfying fashion, by feeding the lust in your gut for a meal that is not just a dinner but a feast.

He enjoys dishes like the French onion soup, the Solomon Gundy, the pork chop tower (called “deranged and wonderful”), the tomahawk chop and the sweetbreads blanquette; he’s less impressed with the steaks, the bone-in burger and the trout. Overall, he awards the restaurant with one star.

Fred and Barney Would Feel Right at Home [NY Times]

Photo via Yelp