Use for old windows?

Hi,

I would also recommend Farrow & Ball. I'm working with their colours on two projects at the moment, and am very happy with them. They have more depth of pigment, and more subtlety than the BM paints, and although as mopar says, the colours are more limited I think they work very well in Victorian homes.

If you are interested I would love to work with you on this project. If you would like to send me your contact details - to elizdoughty (at) gmail.com I would be happy to discuss it with you further.

Good luck!

Posted by: zil at October 15, 2008 5:44 PM in response to Paint color scheme help

We installed Runtal radiators this summer, and turned them on for the first time last night. We replaced fin-type baseboard heaters. Initially we weren't going to do them all, but it turned out that although they work as a direct replacement, you can't run both on the same system - something to do with one being more tolerant of air in the pipes than the other.

When we turned them on last night they got hot really fast. Denton, I was interested to read your comment, as I was thinking last night that maybe we should turn our boiler down. Does anyone have any idea what temperature it should be set to?

Posted by: zil at October 7, 2008 7:50 PM in response to Runtal Radiators

We also used Osmo - both their stains and the polyx oil. I love the finish, and it has been pretty easy to apply so far - (I did the stain myself, and will do the polyx oil in the next few weeks). I also have a young baby, and I did a lot of research before choosing the Osmo stuff.

Posted by: zil at August 10, 2008 4:55 PM in response to Non-Toxic, Low VOC Floor Finish Recommendations Needed

One more thing...

sutherlandwelles.com

For years I thought that Sutherland Welles tung oil was reserved exclusively for fine furniture, until I saw it used to finish floors that come out looking like furniture. It is much more finicky than the Osmo, and requires more coats (and more time between coats) but is totally natural and non-toxic.

Posted by: southslope at August 10, 2008 7:19 PM in response to Non-Toxic, Low VOC Floor Finish Recommendations Needed

I wonder why you didn't go pre-finished, but o/w I'd agree w cmu's last para...

Posted by: denton at August 11, 2008 5:54 PM in response to Non-Toxic, Low VOC Floor Finish Recommendations Needed

Thank you all for the helpful input. I was able to do much research in the last few days. Decided to go with AFM Safecoat Polyureseal BP Satin Finish. Pretty low VOC content & easy to apply. House will be empty for two months before we move in, so plenty of time for off-gassing, if any. Wanted to go with AFM Naturals Oil Wax Finish, but it takes 3 weeks to fully cure, which doesn't work for us since other work is being completed in the house during that timeframe. Again, thanks to all who responded.

Posted by: southsidegrll at August 11, 2008 7:32 PM in response to Non-Toxic, Low VOC Floor Finish Recommendations Needed

Hi,

We are about to hook up Myson radiators (actually, most of them are supplied by an Austrian manufacturer). A few things:
yes, you can combine Runtal or Myson radiators with other products such as baseboard heating and other forced hot water radiators, but you have to be make sure that the system does not get constant injections of new water due to a leak so that oxygen is not constantly reintroduced. Corrosion is a concern with too much fresh oxygen.

Also, thinner wall radiators will heat space more quickly, so I suspect that you might get unpredictable results, depending on the placement of the thermostats.

The lower temperature comment is relevant for only towel warmers and radiant floor, where the temperature should be kept around 120-130F. Myson is well known for their towel warmers.

We have just thrown out all of our cast iron radiators precisely because of the space they take up, opting for two, smaller, wall-hung radiators under the windows in each larger room. We are also going with tall, wall radiators in the hallway and kitchen area to conserve on space.

Each radiator has its own thermostatic valve and the design of the radiator with a bypass valve allows us to shut off any radiator independent of the others even though they are connected in series within a zone. Took a while to figure out the details and I am telling the plumber how to build it!

We replaced the old pipe with PEX tubing and went for both hydronic radiant floor and a towel warmer on separate loops controlled by a Roth Industries shunt valve that keeps the water supplied by the burner at the lower temperature needed.

You are more than welcome to contact me about our design decisions and take a look at the solution here in Sunset Park. Contact me at andru3 at gmail com.

Posted by: renomandru at October 7, 2008 11:33 PM in response to Runtal Radiators

We installed Runtal in several rooms where space was an issue....they never get too hot, and work well with the rest of our hot water system. Plus, they are beautiful to look at. Our local plumber did the job, and the only negative was the time it took for custom sizes to arrive.

We bleed our radiators regularly so air has not been a problem, and water temp. is about 3/4 of the way up the dial.

You do need to calculate the amount of heat that will be needed, and these radiators need to be bigger (i.e., either a bit longer or a bit taller) to replace the heat from standard iron radiators. They look great tall, and the kids lean up against them to warm up.

Posted by: nintendomom at October 8, 2008 8:24 AM in response to Runtal Radiators

Does anyone care to say where you purchased your Runtals? (We currently have a quote from Park Slope Plumbing Supply.) Renomandru, that's a great offer. We may take you up on it.

Thanks everyone!

Posted by: Brooklynista at October 8, 2008 12:15 PM in response to Runtal Radiators

Thanks everyone for the feedback and advice. I will be checking out Farrow & Ball. I am not possessed with restoring to a period look or color, but am highly motivated to pick colors and textures that we will love.

Mopar, we painted some of the trim with an almost pure white and have come to believe that a cream would have been better. Only one pint of oil-based paint. Worth the experiment.

Vinca, the links were eye-openers and gave me some good ideas of what some viable options are.

Zil, the search starts with you.

Posted by: renomandru at October 15, 2008 11:37 PM in response to Paint color scheme help

Very interesting. Good luck with the project. I hope it turns out wonderful.

(Also, another recommendation: Latex is much easier to work with than oil. But whatever you choose, use a slightly shinier finish on the trim. So, for example, flat on walls, eggshell on trim. Or, another example, eggshell on walls, semi-gloss on trim.)

Posted by: mopar at October 16, 2008 1:24 PM in response to Paint color scheme help

Hi,
I had the exact same problem. I posted on Brownstoner and was contacted by a woman who helped me as a color consultant. She has a design background and was very helpful presenting entire palette ideas. Her name is Rebecca, and her email is rcaindc@aol.com. We are just finishing a year long renovation of an 1850s house in Chelsea. I knew the types of colors I wanted, but she really helped me put it all together, and it was not expensive!
I recommend you contact her.
Good luck.

Posted by: homey at October 16, 2008 11:25 PM in response to Paint color scheme help

Try Clare Donohue at 121studio.com. Color consultation is one of her areas of expertise. She gave me some great ideas for room colors in my brownstone.

Posted by: keep at October 17, 2008 1:10 AM in response to Paint color scheme help