Do the contractors take credit cards? If so, just stay a month ahead and pocket the draws. You may end up paying some extra interest but it's better then having a stalled project.

Posted by: wilso26941 at February 27, 2010 5:28 PM in response to 203K Loan help--for Draws

There are two different requirements at play here. There's the separation requirement which is usually two hours - so if the floor is separating apartments, needs to be X rated. Then there's the floor rating requirement which is independent of separation - so all floors need to be X rated no matter what.

You have probably 3 lighting options: 1) have the fire rating fit tight to each joist and have lighting in between (expensive). 2) find lighting with fire rated housing (I'm sure they are out there). 3) Drop another ceiling below the fire rated one that your recessed lighting is housed in.

Don't know why this is "suddenly" from your architect - it should have been from Day 1.

Posted by: wilso26941 at January 29, 2010 12:31 PM in response to 4-Family Code Question

Awesome. It would be a shame though if you were not able to incorporate a perimeter rolling ladder as seen in Lex Luthor's lair in the movie Superman. Find additional inspiration here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YM7Y0YN8Gnc

Posted by: wilso26941 at January 25, 2010 12:42 PM in response to Front Parlor: The Reveal

My wife and I were confronted with this exact problem when looking at Greenpoint. We found that there should be a fifth rule above and it should be 5) Greenpoint. Go to http://bedbugregistry.com/ and look up your address. You should not only be looking at your building but at least the two neighboring builings as well. Also go to NYC HPD site and type in your address on the right: http://www.nyc.gov/html/hpd/html/home/home.shtml

We put a security deposit down and signed a lease on a place near McGolrick Park. That night saw that it was on the bedbugregistry and freaked. My wife miraculously was able to contact the previous tenant who according to the broker was moving to buy a house in the area. The reason he was moving? BEDBUGS. I told the broker (Dorothy/Donna - same person from Proper Real Estate) about the bedbugs and she lied to my face saying she had never worked with the landlord before so she wasn't aware. She had presigned leases in her top drawer and she's telling me she never worked with the landlord! That on top of the previous tenant saying he worked with Donna/Dorothy when he moved in and told her about the bedbugs numerous times. However she did let us back out and get our full deposit back.

Google bedbugs. There is not a SINGLE story in the entire history of the internet that ends well. I'm with *rob*.

Posted by: wilso26941 at January 8, 2010 11:33 AM in response to Need Bed Bug Advice

3/4" subfloor. Glue the subfloor to the joists in addition to screws to avoid "creaking" noises developing over time. Also for more acoustic separation, lay down a layer of 1/4" cork (or similar) between the hardwood and the subfloor. Not sure about T&G - thought that was more for a roof or if the floor was treated as a structural diaphragm or to prevent racking. I thought you use straight edge plywood and leave 1/8" gaps at joints (could be wrong). Oh yeah - make sure you get PLYWOOD and not OSB or particle board.

Posted by: wilso26941 at October 22, 2009 2:03 PM in response to Installing Wood Floors

As far as I know, using the security deposit as your last month's rent is a big no-no and it will cause you to lose any remaining security deposit. For instance, when you sign the lease and give them first month, last month, and security you figure you can use the last month for the last month. Wrong. The lease more than likely says the security deposit = 2 months rent. If you do not pay the last month you are in default, therefore you lose it all.

Posted by: wilso26941 at September 9, 2009 5:50 PM in response to Lease Notice & Termination

Try www.rentometer.com as a start. Also, propertyshark has free comps for purchasing but they may have something for renting as well.

Posted by: wilso26941 at September 9, 2009 3:12 PM in response to Rental Comps for a 203k?

Sorry - you asked, I answered. With my professional advice, you got my personal opinion. In the future, I recommend doing the research yourself as it's not hard to find - Google NYC Building Code and/or NYC Zoning.

Posted by: wilso26941 at August 13, 2009 3:55 PM in response to Outdoor Fireplaces?

So they're not really permitted from a zoning standpoint. That doesn't necessarily mean you can't do one, I just don't know how you'll get a permit for one. Although I'm always told that piped gas grilles are not allowed in yards or terraces either but they happen all the time.

From Zoning Resolution:
23-44
Permitted Obstructions in Required Yards or Rear Yard Equivalents

In all #Residence Districts#, the following shall not be considered obstructions when located within a required #yard# or #rear yard equivalent#:

(a) In any #yard# or #rear yard equivalent#:

Chimneys, projecting not more than three feet into, and not
exceeding two percent of the area of, the required #yard# or
#rear yard equivalent#;

Posted by: wilso26941 at August 13, 2009 2:53 PM in response to Outdoor Fireplaces?

A gas exterior fireplace. Isn't that akin to running your air conditioner outside? Or using bottled water to wash your tub? Using hot water for ice cubes? Please tell me this is for a restaurant and not a home.

If it's a B-vent fireplace you need to follow the building code for flues - 6 feet above neighboring construction within 10 feet or something like that. If it's direct vent, you don't (I think). Also, check zoning - I don't think a fireplace/chimney is a permitted obstruction in a rear yard unless it's within 3 feet of the building. Not applicable though if it's on the roof.

Posted by: wilso26941 at August 13, 2009 2:36 PM in response to Outdoor Fireplaces?

I wouldn't scrap it, I just want to know if a friend and I would be able to get it out of there! I once bought and moved one of those old war-era typewriting desks that was one giant-mass-of-steel. We wrestled it up 2 flights of stairs to get it into the apartment but when it was time to move, guess what? We just left it, the thing was so @#%$%& heavy. That desk was awesome though.

Posted by: wilso26941 at August 10, 2009 3:41 PM in response to Antique Enamel Stove - Free

Where is it located and could 2 people easily get it up/down stairs (how heavy is it)?

Posted by: wilso26941 at August 10, 2009 2:28 PM in response to Antique Enamel Stove - Free

I don't think digging out a foundation would be more difficult than any other lot. If anything, it might even give you a little more flexibility as you can support one side with the other side.

As far as property value, you should take into consideration that according to zoning, only a single or two family home can be built here due to the size of the lot (18 foot wide, 1700 s.f. minimum). A two family is not really reasonable because the stairs will simply eat away too much square footage and width. So you will not be competing with developers but individuals looking to build a house. Check that, crazy individuals looking to build a house. So not much competition.

That being said, 12 feet is VERY narrow. Your looking at a 10'-6" wide interior space - TOPS. Gotta get creative and make distribution of light the number one priority. I think this is the core of what Jim is trying to say. To say that Jim is missing the point is really missing the point. I would not even think about building on this narrow a lot without getting an architect involved and at least having a concept figured out first. I'm sure many architects (myself included) would love this opportunity and provide pre-closing services on the cheap for the chance of a great design.

Posted by: wilso26941 at August 10, 2009 10:06 AM in response to Value of Lot in South Slope?

I've been in this place and it's an absolute train wreck. Trash in the front yard piled 3 feet high. Trash in the rear yard piled 6 feet high. The interior is half-ass gutted, half burned out and doesn't even have floor joists left on all floors. It's a dump. The facade is not remotely attractive and it's practically on top of the BQE.

There's a new development down the street (it might even be that one next door) that is the ugliest thing I've ever seen. Its facade is those little shiny mosaic tiles that change color depending on what angle you look at them. Do you know what I'm talking about? Hideous.

Posted by: wilso26941 at July 30, 2009 2:59 PM in response to House of the Day: 78 Adelphi Street Revisited

Your best bet is an FHA 203k loan as stated above. This loan will absolutely let you buy a shell and renovate but it does have a limit and it has to be owner-occupied.

Posted by: wilso26941 at July 20, 2009 10:19 AM in response to Financing "Unhabitable" Property

In our MEA book it is filed under "Lumber & Plywood: Fire-retardant Treated" so I interpret that to mean it is approved for use anywhere fire treated wood is allowed. If you are using it as a deck just limit it to 20% of the roof area and you'll be safe.

Posted by: wilso26941 at June 9, 2009 9:37 AM in response to Ipe deck not up to code??

There is an MEA Number. It's 220-01-E TIMBER HOLDINGS, LTD. Timber Holdings is the manufacturer of Iron Woods Brand Ipe and other woods. So technically only their Ipe is approved. I have heard rumors either online or by my expeditor (I can't remember) that the DOB reversed their decision on this but I can't find any documentation of such a decision. We had Ipe installed on a recent project involving a roof terrace and didn't have any objections about it from the DOB so I don't think they care about it too much.

Posted by: wilso26941 at June 9, 2009 9:31 AM in response to Ipe deck not up to code??

Let me rephrase:
foundit7 - sorry for your loss, thanks for the heads-up.

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 29, 2009 2:48 PM in response to BEWARE! BEWARE! BEWARE!

Of course I am an architect, it says so on my profile. I know, I know what goes on in the real world - sheesh! For this particular job, a house addition in NY, drawings signed and sealed by a NYS licensed architect or engineer are required to legally start this project. Whether someone "designs" it and finds someone else to sign it is another matter but then you have two parties and costs involved, why not just get the one?

This isn't really the place to get into this, but here's the law (first is permissible forms of practice, second is definition of architecture):
http://www.op.nysed.gov/archguide-b1.htm
http://www.op.nysed.gov/article147.htm

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 29, 2009 2:47 PM in response to BEWARE! BEWARE! BEWARE!

Sorry, I didn't mean to scold but inform for the future. An architect is the core of the construction process. You don't have to be well versed on construction procedures to know this or easily find out - I think it's pretty much common knowledge. I posted the website for others (and foundit7) to use in the future.

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 28, 2009 7:53 PM in response to BEWARE! BEWARE! BEWARE!

I don't want to be harsh but shame on you for hiring the guy. Designing an extension on your in-laws house, by state law, is the job of an architect. I don't know what services he offered you, but I just did a 10 second search to see if he had any related NYS licenses (Architect, Engineer, Interior Designer, etc.) and he does not. In the future check here: http://www.op.nysed.gov/opsearches.htm

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 28, 2009 3:15 PM in response to BEWARE! BEWARE! BEWARE!

Laminated glass is probably overkill and more expensive.

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 28, 2009 9:12 AM in response to Frameless Shower Door Thickness

Another architect here. We just went through this trying to bid out a super high end 12 condo building in the West Village. Both glass companies we talked to (Glass Crafters Inc. and Tiffany Mirror Shower Door Corp.) recommended 1/2" for both fixed panels and doors. They said you could go 3/8" on the doors but there will be some funkiness as the panels will not be flush when closed. If the door hinges from the wall or floor 1/2" is not a problem. If the door hinges from the glass, MAYBE the guy has a point.

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 27, 2009 6:50 PM in response to Frameless Shower Door Thickness

ROTW:
"The 30 year Mortgage went from 5.08% to 6.52%"
- I don't see that anywhere in that article.

And as far as neighborhoods, PropertyShark has a pretty good resource - go to the maps section and turn on the layer that is called "Neighborhood Areas". According to that, this home is barely in BedStuy.

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 27, 2009 3:50 PM in response to House of the Day: 456 Bainbridge Street

If you look in the zoning resolution, it tells you the rear yard must be at the same elevation as the mean elevation of your front property line (or something along those lines). So your six foot fence height (and your yard) should be generated from there. Whether this ever happens on anything other than new construction is doubtful.

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 20, 2009 4:53 PM in response to Another Back Yard FENCE Question

Dave - At least CPC responded to me which I can't say for about 95% of everyone else I tried to contact. It wasn't all bad - he did follow with, "Perhaps you could contact me in the fall to see what we could offer at that time."
Thanks Phil, I'll try them.

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 19, 2009 5:27 PM in response to Financing a Shell Renovation

I only know Manhattan but if you agreed to pay them what they are asking for, then you should probably just pay them. In my experience they are very frustrating, seems like they are doing nothing for you most of the time, then the next thing you know everything is done with no warning whatsoever. And if everything is not done, they tell you exactly what you need to do to correct it and the process starts over (should not cost extra though). Your last statement tells me you are close to enlightenment.

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 19, 2009 3:42 PM in response to "Expeditor" = "Pay to Play"?

I already contacted CPC. Even if it were not owner-occupied, which I hope it will be, Robert Riggs told me the following:

"Unfortunately, at this time CPC is not committing construction financing of any kind, and I don’t expect to resume construction lending until capital markets ease."

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 19, 2009 2:14 PM in response to Financing a Shell Renovation

kutterkan - classic. Have you seen the music video?

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 15, 2009 5:44 PM in response to Backyard Reno Unveils Old Well in Fort Greene

Egg,
I am in the same boat as you - I am/was looking to do the same thing and I'm an architect. My wife and I met with a mortgage broker to discuss which I recommend. We were looking at an FHA insured 203(k) renovation loan so we could do 3.5% - 5% down payment (come on, I'm an architect after all). Keep that in mind when determining what is relevant and what is not since we were talking about FHA.

First, the bank wants the building to be self sustaining based on 80% of comp rents - not craigslist listings or what you think you can get (you can use www.rentometer.com for an idea). So 80% of the rent you take in + whatever you would pay in rent if you were renting your unit needs to cover your PITI (Mortgage + Taxes + Homeowners Insurance + Mortgage Insurance if any). This basically wiped us out from 2 or 3 family but made 4 family feasible (we were looking in Clinton Hill). We did talk mostly 3 family so 2 family might be different with this requirement.

Another blow was the Debt to Income Ratio (DTI). The FHA limits are 31% and 43% (pretty standard) which we thought was fine since the incoming rent would pay down the mortgage - no problem. Wrong. The bank calls this a "PITI Wash" and used to allow it back in the day but no more. Incoming rent is counted as income and again only at 80% so with the DTI limit, really only 25-35% can go against your mortgage payment.

The other thing (for FHA renovation loan at least) was we would need a licensed contractor to do the work - no DIY. Since every place we're looking at needs substantial work, this is significant. If you're looking to scrape & paint, install some new tile, things like that, maybe it's not a problem.

Long story short - meet with a mortgage broker. Other than that, I think this is an awesome idea. For an architect at least - we tend to be handy, don't mind fixing thing and will be familiar with every square inch of that building. I've found one thing most rich people have in common is they got rich using other people's money.

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 7, 2009 12:15 PM in response to Becoming a landlord

Thanks all - good stuff. One thing not working out for me is the filing shows up on propertyshark but not on ACRIS. So where is propertyshark getting their info from? Yeah, I was hoping the broker would come back with more than, "unable to disclose further".

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 5, 2009 5:48 PM in response to Lis Pendens filing?

The Lis Pendens filing is by the seller's lender so most likely it's for not paying his mortgage for 3+ months. If he pays-up or is paid-up to date, will the bank clear it or is it too late for that? Thanks all.

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 5, 2009 10:01 AM in response to Lis Pendens filing?

Update: Seller's broker says they are unable to give any info.

Posted by: wilso26941 at May 4, 2009 6:19 PM in response to Lis Pendens filing?

What jp2 said. Sprinklers might depend on number of exits (is there a fire escape?) but more likely both will depend on the cost of the renovation. First of all, you should consult an architect. But if you just have to check the Building Code and want to make your brain hurt, here:

http://www.nyc.gov/html/dob/html/reference/code_internet.shtml

Section 27-114 to 27-123.

Posted by: wilso26941 at April 11, 2009 5:29 PM in response to 4 fam Renov handicap required?

I think (total guess) if you wanted to do a coop, you might form a non-profit organization with the other couple to buy the building like Rick said. A non-profit may afford you better financing options (total guess) and also the possibility of tax credits if the building is in either a landmarked neighborhood or on the National Register of Historic Places (not a guess) which a lot of Brooklyn neighborhoods are.

Condo is definitely the better bet for resale - you would still need to start a business to buy the building, then that business would sell each unit to you and your friends and retain ownership of the third unit to rent out. In effect you and your friends would become developers. However, the offering plan process is a total nightmare. But for all I know coop could be as well.

You will definitely need an architect but in the meantime, check the NYC DOB BIS (just google that) website to determine what the use of the building is currently. If it is already listed as a multifamily walk-up apartment you are set. If it is listed as a one or two family residence, you, your architect, your contractor, and your expeditor will have a little more work to do, but it should not be terrible (handicapped access, maybe sprinklers in the stairs, etc.). Condo or coop is not a factor for how you renovate the building, only in how the paperwork is drawn up and how much the paperwork costs.

Posted by: wilso26941 at April 11, 2009 5:10 PM in response to Converting Brownstone to Co-op

Addendum: According to the Building Code, a 3 family (J-2) does NOT need sprinklers. A 4 family does.

§[1703.1] 27-954 Required sprinklers.-
(t) Buildings classified in occupancy group J-1,
buildings classified in occupancy group J-2 with four or
more dwelling units, spaces classified in occupancy
group J-1, and spaces classified in occupancy group J-2
with four or more dwelling units.

Posted by: wilso26941 at April 2, 2009 12:17 PM in response to Converting 7 family to 3 family

Actually, you should not make it a two family as it is already a multiple dwelling and making it a two family will change the occupancy. The break is between 2 and 3 family not 3 and 4 family. The construction standards can be about the same but you may need sprinklers. However, if you do not change occupancy or the exit path you may be able to get a precon on the sprinklers. And yes, as I'm sure you know, you will most definitely need an architect and an expeditor. Congrats.

Posted by: wilso26941 at April 1, 2009 11:35 PM in response to Converting 7 family to 3 family

Wow. Tough crowd here. I'm an architect. You do have some options. One would be to find out what is shown on the plans that are on file at the DOB. If the previous owner who took down the wall did so illegally, the plans would still show the wall. This may get you somewhere but I still kind of doubt it. It may at least get you around filing plans and needing an architect. Maybe a contractor could pull a permit based on the plans already on file. Or just have a contractor do it. As said above, the DOB will (most likely) never find out. The second option, and what I would recommend is put up a "temporary" wall. Get creative with how it attaches to the wall and the floor. Have a carpenter make some double-sided casework. Call it a piece of furniture, whatever. The idea is have something made off-site, maybe in a few pieces, and all you need to do is have it brought in. Like a couch. But wall shaped. Call it a shoji screen.

Posted by: wilso26941 at April 1, 2009 10:40 PM in response to Do I Need an Architect?

Hotel Detective--

which apt?

if what i think it is, it's my understanding the apt was treated after we moved out, but it's hard to say how effective that will be b/c a lot of it has to do not even so much with ur apartment, but with who's below/above you.

Posted by: oneasternparkway at January 8, 2010 2:48 PM in response to Need Bed Bug Advice

Wow! HotelDetective...you really are a good detective!

Posted by: GirlDetective at January 8, 2010 3:23 PM in response to Need Bed Bug Advice

if you do take the apt.....just be more cautious until the person is out and other place renovated. No hanging bedskirts or whatever you call those things and perhaps use metal frame on bed...they can't crawl up...no rugs in bedroom for awhile. throw a slipcover over sofa.
A rent-stabilized apt. that you like is a godsend.
Even fancy coops on Park avenue get bedbugs.

Posted by: Petebklyn at January 8, 2010 4:50 PM in response to Need Bed Bug Advice

i wouldnt live RENT FREE in a luxurious high rise overlooking the hudson river if it possibly had bedbugs.

*rob*

Posted by: Butterfly at January 8, 2010 4:57 PM in response to Need Bed Bug Advice

I know plenty of people who've had them--and though it's a major pain, it is absolutely possible to get rid of them completely.

But just to be safe:
--make sure you have a metal bed/bedframe
--order those bedbug mattress covers for your mattress & box spring (http://www.natlallergy.com/ has cheaper options than those Protect-A-Bed things)
--Never pick up anything off the street.

Your landlord is already responsible for the exterminator costs, so you don't really need to have him sign an additional waver.

You can also get that white powder at the hardware store on Manhattan, we've swept it into all the baseboards to prevent them from coming in from other apartments, so far, so good.

Posted by: brooklynblondie at January 8, 2010 5:17 PM in response to Need Bed Bug Advice

OnEasternParkway, yes I saw on BedBugRegistry that it was above and below and I know that it was treated, but it's still unnerving. Obviously I'm 5. Except for my occasional paranoia about the bed bugs, it's really an amazing apartment.

Posted by: HotelDetective at January 8, 2010 5:38 PM in response to Need Bed Bug Advice

HotelDetective---

feel free to stop by if you want, i can share some preventitive tips with you.

Posted by: oneasternparkway at January 8, 2010 5:56 PM in response to Need Bed Bug Advice

GirlDetective, I'm worried about what will happen when the upstairs apartment is renovated - good chance that the bugs will migrate down to you (or to someone else in the building). They are resilient little f-ers.

The bugs have a cost factor, a drive-you-crazy factor, and a make-you-throw-out-stuff-you-really-love factor. If you get bugs, your landlord is responsible for extermination costs, but not the cost of all the stuff you have to replace. And some of that stuff will be irreplaceable - like furniture you inherited from your great grandmother or whatever.

I'm also not crazy about the building manager's non-straightforward-ness. Although if I owned a building with bugs I'm not sure what I'd do myself...But what else is he not being straightforward about?

If it were me, I wouldn't do it. You've had bugs before, but it doesn't sound like it was bad - I've seen people literally driven insane by bugs. But if you're so desperately in love with this particular apartment, I'd advise not bringing anything you would be devastated to throw out into the apartment for three to six months after moving in.

Posted by: UnprotectedWrecks at January 8, 2010 7:44 PM in response to Need Bed Bug Advice

When my grandmother was a child, all the bed frames were metal and every leg stood in a little dish filled with kerosene so the bedbugs couldn't reach it.

If you try this, though, don't smoke in bed.

Posted by: mopar at January 9, 2010 3:02 PM in response to Need Bed Bug Advice

"I say we take off and nuke the entire site from orbit. It's the only way to be sure."

--Warrant Officer Ripley.

And the creepy-crawlies she was talking about weren't as scary as bedbugs...

Posted by: etmthree at January 10, 2010 9:04 PM in response to Need Bed Bug Advice