Goof off should take it off without harming the floor finish (provided the finish is oil base). If it is a water base finish, the goof off will soften the finish and the marker color will mix in with it - so be careful.

if you use toothepaste or any other compounds, use a little water and rub gently lest you dull the finish.

steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at November 13, 2009 8:33 PM in response to Marker on Wood Floor

You should have a deadbolt.

If you are buying off the shelf at one of the big box stores, Schlage makes a decent lock. If you are looking for a high security deadbolt with a key that can not be duplicated, you need a Medco or Multi Lock provided by a locksmith.

If you have an existing deadbolt in place, it is possible to take the cylinder out and replace it. Unless it is a very good cylinder, it is not worth rekeying. A corner locksmith can help with these.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at November 13, 2009 4:13 PM in response to Door lock Suggestions

I have not read all of the posts with this, but:

as one person said be sure that to bend the copper lines. I would ad, put a wrench on them and "backturn" them as you tightent the supply lines. By back turn, I don't mean turn but put some pressure on them to balance the pressure from tightenting the supply.

Do not over tighten the speedy connects on the supply lines. These should be hand tightened plus about 3/4 turn with a wrench. Any more and you may crush the seal.

Yes, the nuts will be a pain, but not unmanagable.

Usually the worst thing with changing faucets is that the turn off valves don't hold. When that happens, the entire floor or house must be turned off.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at November 13, 2009 4:03 PM in response to Installing Faucet - No Brainer?

I second ebay as a source, but check the out of state salvage yards on the 'net; they will ship. I am doing some salvage sourcing this week and will keep an eye open.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at November 10, 2009 3:30 PM in response to Brass Door Hardware Needed

try Lee Valley Tools @ Leevalley.com

steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at November 5, 2009 8:16 PM in response to Drawer Rails

I was told in a construction class that I took at city tech that they started using 2x6's in the 1970's to allow for more insulation and therefore, more thermal resistance. Prior to then, most houses were made with 2x4's and many still are.

I am not an expert on insulation, but there are plenty out there that will deliver very good resistance in the smaller wall cavity made by 2x4's. Lastly, something a builder told me years ago when I was insulating a wall - don't over pack insulation as it is the air left between the fibres that provide the thermal value.

I hope this helps,

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at November 2, 2009 5:52 PM in response to 2x4 Framed House

When I do these, I don't usually repair the valves on the bottom, they are inexpensive so I change them. This is a DIY unless they are sweat on. If they are sweat, I usually cut the lines and sweat a threaded male pipe and replace the old valves with threaded ones, so the next time they go, they are DIY.

As for the faucets, the washers are generally DIY, but if the seats are shot, you may wish to call someone.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at November 2, 2009 5:43 PM in response to Plumbing Issue

I am wondering if water base poly would go on with a clear finish; it does with other woods. For those of us that think that water based poly is not as durable as oil, there are two part mix poly's (Basic Coatings Street Shoe comes to mind) which outperform oil based finishes.

Pine is a real funny wood to try to stain & finish. Unless one goes very dark, it does tend to orange.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at October 31, 2009 9:29 PM in response to Urethane

I have a gauge here in my house and I use it much the same way you use your petrometer; for a guesstimate. Basically, to confirm that the oil folks made their delivery and to be sure I am not below a half a tank.

If you are looking for a way to track use, I would keep a tab on your monthly deliveries and watch it that way over time. Another way to track use is to put a time clock (hour meter) on the burner and by taking into account the gph of your nozzle, you will have a very close accounting of your daily consumption.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at October 31, 2009 10:04 AM in response to Heat Timer - oil tank gauge

I have the problem here in my house with a radiator that I tilted more than enough to drain all the water from. Still, banging. I spoke to a boilerman - a real bolierman - and he asked me if I'd ever disconnected the radiator, which I had. He also asked me if it had banged before I disconnected it (it hadn't). He sumised that the pipe had shifted below the floor and that water had settled in the pipe and can't flow out. He explained that it only takes a very little bit of trapped water to cause banging. Also, the banging in my house is in the pipes, yet sounds like it is coming from the radiator.

Steve

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at October 30, 2009 6:41 PM in response to Those Clanging Pipes

I second Classic Tile on 86th. I have recently had to match tile for small restoration jobs and both times they had what I needed. It seems they have two or three buildings on the block, so plenty of warehouse space filled with tile.

steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at October 30, 2009 6:34 PM in response to Tile Store?

You may wish to check the size if the vents on the rads that are hissing but not getting hot. If the vents are not large enough they will not bleed the cool air from the system before the floor where the thermostat is located gets warm (because it is usually closer to the boiler) and the thermostat shuts the boiler off.

The vent on the rad in the room where the thermo is located should be a #4. The vents farthest from boiler should be a a higher number or even a D. The higher numbers or D vents vent faster, getting steam to the end run before it heats the room where the thermostat is located.

Also, once the radiators are hot, the vents should not hiss. if they are hissing when the are hot, they are not closing all the way; you are releasing steam or hot air which will cause your boiler to run more than it should have to.

All of this assumes we are talking about steam heat. If you have hot water heat with gurgles in the rads, that is air trapped inside; that must be bled off.

Call me if you have any questions.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at October 30, 2009 6:12 PM in response to Hissing, But No Heat

Call me,

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com
347-813-9635

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at October 26, 2009 8:04 PM in response to Glass Insulators

Call me. I have someone (not me, i am busy) but do not want to post his number here.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com
347-813-9635

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at October 19, 2009 7:12 PM in response to Desperately seeking painter

Check out Northern Tool. I think their website is northerntool.com. I have not ordered any lights from them but they have a pretty good selection. They have been around for some time now - you may remember the name they once went by: Northern Hydraulics.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at October 17, 2009 9:41 AM in response to Security Light

Hi, I have a few good pairs of these lying aroung somewhere. I've been trying to make it my business to sell these things, you can see by my website www.thetinkersyard.com. I am not sure what value to place on them and I know what the salvage places in the city fetch for them.

give me a bell if you would like to see what i have and offer me something, I'll see what i can do

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com
www.thetinkersyard.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at October 4, 2009 9:47 PM in response to Wanted: Octagon Glass Doorknobs

my electrician recently told me that all units, even small residential units, need a permit.

At one time I managed a commercial building with several split 5 ton (2.5 ton x2) units on the roof and we had to have permits for those.

My guess is yes, but let's wait and see what some HVAC pro's say.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at October 1, 2009 8:42 PM in response to AC on the Roof

I am not an electrician, but am going to say no. We have an older three bedroom house with 100 amp service and I know that if we added the right amount of breakers for all of the outlets that we should have by current code and dedicated lines (A/C's, frig, washer/dryer, maybe microwave)where they should be by current code, we would not have enough room in the box.

Even if we did not fill the box with breakers and attempted to run everything we have here at the same time, I would say we would exceed capacity (there are two adults and a child here; think of your situation with 8 units with two adults each).

There is also something called gutter space around the breaker box. Again, i am not an electrician, but with all the wire that is going to be run in there for those 8 units, there may not be enough space for all that wire - though I think the DOB decides that on inspection.

even if the 200 is enough, now, you have no room for any expansion if someone wanted more power for something later. It happens all the time, a hot tub or some big a/c unit.

Once again I am not an electrician, but I am going to check back later to see what the pros say.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at September 21, 2009 10:11 PM in response to 200 Amps enough for 8 unit Coop?

Right, I was speaking about something for which filing was not required. I am not sure about something that has been filed for,

Sorry,

Steve

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at September 21, 2009 8:28 PM in response to Help! Legality of Extension

For trim? Ben Moore Satin Impervo (oil base). It'll look top shelf.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at September 21, 2009 7:45 PM in response to Paint for Crown Molding?

Property owners are allowed to build greenhouses and sheds up to 120 sq ft without a permit so long as they are not permanantly fixed, ie, no foundation. There is a height restriction, but I can't recall it. Also, they are not supposed to be closer than 3' to a lot line.

I hope this helps.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at September 21, 2009 7:42 PM in response to Help! Legality of Extension

If you use a piece of wood, it might be called a cleat. More likely you are looking for a piece of metal called an angle bracket; the hardware stores have them and they are often made by Stanley.

Steve

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at September 13, 2009 10:43 PM in response to Bracing a Built-In Desk?

Can you check to see if it is not 5/16" thick. A lot of these floors were made from face nailed 5/16" strips. I have a few bundles of it here - white oak - left over and can rip it down. I can get more if need be. I am not sure if I can do it within your timeframe though as I am busy.

I can help you even if what I have is not to size; I have small shop with a thickness planer and other machines.

Now that I think of it, I bought some narrow stuff from Hall Flooring in New Hyde Park about 10 years ago; you may wish to call them. You can also try Eastside on 124 st in the city.

Steve
www.thetinkersyard.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at September 9, 2009 9:52 PM in response to Help Matching Parquet

If this is simply welding bars - without any creative bends, I can do it for a reasonable price.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 30, 2009 10:13 PM in response to Pesky window bars

Probably Lacquer. Even if it is colored, it may be lacquer. Not as durable as polyurethane. You will want to know for certain what it is, but if it is lacquer, you can sand it to take the loose stuff off and take down the ridges on what remains and try a brush on lacquer. Be careful lacquer is highly flammable.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 25, 2009 9:07 PM in response to Dining Table Finish Peeling

I've done work in houses where they have worked and have always been impressed with what I have seen - and I see a lot of wood floors.

steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 25, 2009 9:03 PM in response to Varrazano Flooring

I don't really worry to much about lead exposure for myself. I am very careful around children though

Also, if you chemically strip, that lead will not become airborne which is one of the ways it is ingested. Be aware that it is illegal to sand paint of unknown makeup in this city; test kits are available at the paint stores and HD.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 24, 2009 10:03 PM in response to Stripping Moldings

Maybe try sanding some of the shellac - not all. Then, use an alcohol based sanding sealer to seal it. The alcohol based sealer with adhere to the shellac. Sand that lightly, and then use an oil base poly tinted with a dye stain. I am not talking about polyshades which I do my best not to ever use, but real poly with a Mohawk Dye Stain. Dye Stains are compatible with the poly and are available in many colors.

Feel free to call me if you have any questions about these products. If I have the time, I'll kick this around a little with you.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 24, 2009 9:54 PM in response to to strip or not to strip

try this site:

www.ljsmith.net

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 24, 2009 9:46 PM in response to Staircase "Wreath"

UPS Store by 6th and 9th Ave. Also a UPS Store on Flatbush by Prospect Place.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 24, 2009 9:41 PM in response to Internet cafe

Should not have to do any cutting. the box and bracket slip into the hole left by the light box and expand between the joists.

Be careful he is not getting in over his head in so far as old wiring. That insulation on that stuff can crumble and is often best left to the licensed guys - they have ways to deal with decaying insulation.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 24, 2009 9:38 PM in response to ceiling fan installation

Try A to Z Appliance. I have seen people buying all sorts of knobs there - and I suspect he stocks stuff that will fit older models. If he doesn't have them, I am sure he will be helpful and point you to someone that does, if he can't order them. here is their web address: www.atozapplianceparts.com

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 24, 2009 9:32 PM in response to 1960s Stove Knobs

I was waiting to see what others would say on this as I buy a lot from Dykes (and little from Lowes). I would say that Dykes tends to offer the real thing.

Steve

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 20, 2009 9:34 PM in response to Doors in Bklyn

sold. 347-813-9635.

steve

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 20, 2009 9:31 PM in response to Claw Foot Tub Available

if that has not fully gone through, it will wear in to the point that you will not see it. If you do not want to wait for it to blend in and know what kind of poly is on the floor -you can lightly rub the scratch with a 220 paper, tack the dust off, and lightly rub (not brush) some of the same poly onto it. the repair may show but may also blend in time.

the other alternatives are, as someone suggested, to rub wax into it. or, have someone screen the floor and recoat. I doubt that is necessary though.

feel free to call me if you have any questions.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 18, 2009 10:33 PM in response to Refs for Small Floor Job

I am not sure you will find someone to spray in a residence - I believe it is illegal. And to spray lacquer in a home would be very dangerous (fire).

What is on there now? what color would you like on there? I have been working with some water base urethane enamels that can be brushed on and rubbed out as though they were sprayed. The same can be done with Satin Impervo.

Feel free to take a look at my website and give me a call if you have any questions. There are many options without spraying.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 10, 2009 9:53 PM in response to Spray Painter/Enameler

Sorry, I overlooked the part about the brick behind the lath when I posted earlier. Drill the holes deep enough to accomadate any mollys and screws. Truthfully, the mollys - if they extend into the brick, should do the trick. You may have to toss the mollys and screws they provided though and get something better.

If the plaster and brick start to crumble when you drill and won't support the mollys, use some epoxy and set the mollys in the epoxy. let it harden and then go into the mollys with the screws.

again, feel free to call,

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 9, 2009 11:58 AM in response to Mounting on Plaster Wall?

If you are worried about unkeying the plaster either from age or the close proximity of the screws in the probably smallish mounting flange, consider buying or making a solid wood medalion or rossette a bit larger than the item to be mounted. mount the medalion using the mollys. Counter sink the screws if you like and plug the holes. Use longer (I would use a 2-1/2" screw if you have a 3/4" thick rossette) screws than usually come with the molly kits to be sure you are not just pulling on the plaster (it can be thick). Once mouunted, mount the guitar holder to the medalion using suitable screws.

I use a variety of similiar methods, including wood cleats, whenever I am mounting something large, heavy, or valuable and i wish to disperse the load over a larger area than the object itself. I have never had anything come down.

Call me if you have any questions or need alternatives. If I have a few minutes, I won't mind sharing what I know.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 9, 2009 11:48 AM in response to Mounting on Plaster Wall?

Absolutly yes.

It sounds like your suspicions are correct, that latex was put over oil. To do this properly, the old finish should be sanded lightly with 100 maybe 120 grit paper to allow a "mechanical bond". Then primed with an oil base primer. I have recently used a product called Styx which I was very pleased with (I've noticed that Pitchnik carries a Stxy product, though not the one I am familiar with). But Ben Moore makes an oil base undercoater that the paint stores recommend for use between unlike paints.

Feel free to call me it you have any questions, I don't mind answering questions if I have the time.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 5, 2009 8:54 AM in response to Paint Prep: Old Paint Peels Off?

after getting the paint off, use a good primer - even a rusty metal primer and a good oil base enamel over that (I use Rustoleum but Ben Moore has a good product as well as Ox-line). the combination of the two will far outlast paint alone.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 5, 2009 12:46 AM in response to Iron Grating

There are several shops along the bowery by Prince, Spring, and Kenmare that fabricate stainless products for restaurants. Try going there door-to-door as you have suggested.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at August 2, 2009 11:09 PM in response to Kitchen Renovation Work Question

What you mention in your post and what brucef mentions in his is very simple and easy to do. you do not even have to wait for the glue to dry as drilling out the dowel and putting a screw in tight with expand the dowel to hold it in place. This should take very little time.

If you have any questions, please call me as I do this ALL the time on restoration work and loose door hinges and locks.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at July 30, 2009 9:15 AM in response to Door Handle Repair - Advice?

My small, but quality oriented company installs ikea (and makes and installs other makes of cabinets):

www.thetinkerswagon.com

Steve

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at July 30, 2009 9:09 AM in response to Ikea Installers

Penatrol by Flood Paint Products

www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at July 15, 2009 10:44 PM in response to No brush strokes when painting..

Any way to get dated sattelite images. I know that some municipalities were storing these going back to the eighties just for this purpose. I am not sure what is avail for the city.

steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at July 15, 2009 10:43 PM in response to Unpermitted Extension

You know, they have kits for this at HD. It is an epoxy - probably not unlike fibreglass resin. It is probably easy to do though you may have to dig those cracks out a little with a sharp knife and then apply a mold killer and rinse and dry it very well. I imagine you would spread the stuff with a plastic appliacator and let it harden. Then rub it out a little with some really fine paper (anything from 600 to 800) with a little buffing after that with an automotive type compound. You will want to be carefull not to overrub the existing gelcoat (the white finish on the tub). About the hardest thing would be the color match.

I would bet West Marine in the city also carries this stuff for boat repair. They may also have dyes to color it. they can also tell you how to do it.

I'd almost say i could do it, but since I have not done this kind of work on a tub where color and a delicate touch count, it would not be right for me to charge someone.

steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at July 10, 2009 11:21 PM in response to Fiberglass repair needed

call (or email) me if you can't find someone to do this. There is a small firm on the south shore of Nassau County that does this - I used them several years ago for a job in Queens. They were quite reasonable and did a great job. I can't recall their name but will get it if pressed.

You may try some of the bathroom fixture retailers, I think that is how I found the contractor I used.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at July 10, 2009 10:43 PM in response to Fiberglass repair needed

Hi, I do these. I am very busy at this time, but if this can wait a little while I might be able to fit it in. My prices are reasonable.

Please see my website: www.thetinkerswagon.com

Steve

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at July 6, 2009 9:51 PM in response to Window sash repair

The scarf joint is a step in the right direction but these are generally used where the wood is supported from behind. I would use the scarf, but where joints will not hit a joist, I would use a piece of scrap beadboard behind the joint. I would glue the joint and shoot the wood to the backer with a pneumatic nailer. Maybe two brads on each side of the scarf about an inch from it.

There may be a better solution. Call Consolidated Millwork out in NJ and see if they will provide any longer lengths of the stuff. I am not sure if they supply Dykes, but they seem to be one of the big suppliers of beadboard in the NY area.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at June 26, 2009 11:54 PM in response to Beadboard Question

www.thetinekrswagon.com

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at June 24, 2009 10:15 PM in response to Wood Kitchen Cabinets

HAHA you got me laughing with that one. Believe me, your topic is way more relevant than a lot of the stuff on here; but your excuse is hilarious!

Posted by: townhouser at November 5, 2009 11:59 PM in response to Drawer Rails

i learn so much here. another interesting use for beeswax! (it's also good for getting thread to make a point to get it through the eye of a needle, esp the heavy button thread)

Posted by: CG_ups at November 6, 2009 9:15 AM in response to Drawer Rails

mopar these are metal ball bearing rails.

Posted by: bobjohn at November 6, 2009 9:42 AM in response to Drawer Rails

Oh! Well, then it's to be darn difficult to find a carpenter who can fix them.

They broke? Snapped in two? Metal?

Posted by: mopar at November 7, 2009 10:39 AM in response to Drawer Rails

the little balls fall out. so the inner rail is very loose relatively to the outer rail. I need to buy the replacement assembly. Installing is not that difficult. Than you for attention in any case.

Posted by: bobjohn at November 7, 2009 12:28 PM in response to Drawer Rails

You can buy modern tiles without the heavy price at Italian Tile. Great Selection.
http://italiantilenyc.com

Posted by: ittnyc1 at November 8, 2009 8:17 PM in response to Tile Store?

I ascertained that we each have 50 Amps in our 950 sq ft coop units (8 unit bldg). The wire to the individual boxes is 6 gauge so by changing out the breakers in these individual boxes (to 60Amp) and reconfiguring the main panel, we will instantly add 20 Amps per unit without ripping the place up and going to massive expense. I think this would make us all safer at roughly 2K bucks (including a repair to the building's ground. Anyone want to weigh in on the wisdom of such a move?

Posted by: catomatic at November 9, 2009 7:21 PM in response to 200 Amps enough for 8 unit Coop?

I found matching door knobs at charsletonhardwareco.com . They currently have a 25% sale, and they are very pleasant to deal with.

Posted by: RG at November 10, 2009 3:54 PM in response to Brass Door Hardware Needed

I think I have at least some of them - look tomorrow & I'll let you know. I'm pretty sure I have spindles & a few knobs. Might have keyhole. Doubt I have escutcheons.

Posted by: Arkady at November 10, 2009 4:29 PM in response to Brass Door Hardware Needed

If you're going the reproduction route you can go to home and stone on coney island ave and get them there...that way you can see them in person and tell if you think they look too reproduction-y

Posted by: kwar228 at November 10, 2009 5:09 PM in response to Brass Door Hardware Needed