Thank you to everybody who contributed to this thread. I genuinely feel like I learned something about inflation's effect on home owners and their mortgages.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at September 17, 2009 1:07 AM in response to Pay Back Mortage or Not?

Hi KG,

I can recommend Jeremy Shannon of Prospect Architecture. His specialty is eco-friendly renovation projects. He's also a Brownstoner advertiser so his contact info should be in his ad along the right edge of the forum.

I haven't completed a reno project with him but I have seen a lot of his projects in progress and after completion while working on cable installations. He definitely does great work.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at July 8, 2009 3:05 PM in response to Architect Recommendation

The problem you are describing is in the network connection between the netgear and the PC. So far we don't know and can't test if the internet connection is also down. It might or might not be. There is no way to know so far. So lets remove the local wireless network from the equation to narrow down the location of the fault.

Start by plugging in a network cable from one of the ports on the back of the netgear (labeled 1,2,3 or 4) to the network port on the PC. After you've made this change and given your PC a few minutes to configured its IP address, open a web browser and try to go to nytimes.com. Can you access the internet?

Post your answer so that we can all follow along at home.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at April 4, 2009 3:05 PM in response to No Wireless Internet Connection

SJ,

BobJohn explained the theory very well. Its the same theory as DSL over phone lines, --use different frequencies then what's already being used.

My issue with powerline networking is that you have to attach the internal components of your PC to your power lines. In case of a power surge-- your PC's motherboard and some components are toast. In normal networking, the only connection to your motherboard is via the power supply which absorbs many surges without any damage at all. With PowerLine, there is no way to protect against this since power line networking depends on an unbroken copper cable running to your PC's networking card.

In some cases it might a convenient workaround, but its not a good "plan A".

Posted by: thecomputerguy at March 17, 2009 10:42 AM in response to running network cable in wall

I do this kind of work professional so I'm writing from real-world experience.

There are several different ways to get around running this cable. Don't use them. Just run the cable so that you'll have a reliable system today and in the future.

To answer your specific questions:
- do I need to put conduit for the part of the run where the network cable is inside of the wall?
No you don't HAVE to.

- can I put network cable and power cable in the same conduits?
No. Its very bad for the quality of the signal in your data cable. If you are running power to power the access point, just look for an access point that uses "PoE" which means that the energy needed to power the access point is carried in the ethernet cable. This is possible because there are several unused copper wires in every data cable. You'll also need a POE injector to add the energy to the cable at the other end.

- do I need to call inspectors to look at my setup after I finish? (this is a bit silly).
No. But only because the city hasn't written low-voltage rules yet.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at March 16, 2009 12:10 PM in response to running network cable in wall

To me, it sounds like the sellers might be aware of serious issues and wants to avoid taking a hit on the sale price.

Ask yourself how badly you want this house. If you really want it, then invest the $1500 so that you can make an educated bid.

BTW, I did this for a couple of houses when I was looking. I don't think it was so expensive.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at January 14, 2009 5:51 AM in response to pre-purchase inspection

Renomandru,

Its a really bad idea to not file a job that involves your (probably shared) foundation. Its almost impossible to know what you are going to find when you start digging.

The main issues:
1. You should have the right insurance for something this risky. If you don't file and tell the insurance company ahead of time, you probably won't be covered if you damage your neighbor's homes.

2. The kinds of damage that can happen cannot be repaired easily and might not be repairable at all.

3. What eman1234 said.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at January 9, 2009 12:03 AM in response to Estimates for Cellar Renovations

I can recommend from first hand experience:

Joseph Pasaturo
AVT Enterprises - Engineers and Consultants
718 720 5088
www.avtinspect.com

They did three inspections for me back in 2005 and helped me run away from one place that was very badly built. They explained everything as they went and answered questions post-inspection quickly.

They are not the cheapest and that's a good thing for a structural engineer.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at December 22, 2008 12:49 PM in response to structural engineer

When I installed my three unit mailbox, the rules and regulations were in the box.

I just looked on the bommer website and it looks like the rules have changed since I installed my box in 2005.

Try these links:

https://www.bommer.com/ps/Default.asp?MyPage=Vertical%20Mailbox%20Units

https://www.bommer.com/ps/Default.asp?MyPage=Postal%20Specialties

Posted by: thecomputerguy at December 5, 2008 3:46 PM in response to USPS policy on interior mailbox installation

Mamaday,

Hi. I'm Victor and I run Diadian LLC, an IT support company. I can help you complete the installation of your satellite equipment. I've done complete data/voice/video installations for other Brownstoners and I'm sure I can help you complete your project.

You can reach me at victor@diadian.com. You can also search the forum for my past posts.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at October 29, 2008 9:28 AM in response to TV/Satellite/Cable Technician

Wow! All you need is a few F-jacks installed on the end of a couple of cables? That takes the cake for smallest job ever. :)

If you are not too far from me and we can meet in the evening after another job, I'll take care of it for you. I'm in Bed-Stuy and I often do jobs in Park Slope.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at October 17, 2008 3:45 PM in response to Coaxial cable

Splenda,

A couple of questions and some suggestions:

Are you saying that the cable modem doesn't have an ethernet jack? If it doesn't, then you might have a USB-only cable modem and you'll have to ask them for a modem that has an ethernet jack.

You said that you have cabling wiring behind the walls? Do you also have telephone or network/cat5e wires behind the walls? Do you have a cat5e cable that goes from near where the modem is right now to a location on the middle floor? If so, then you can connect the ethernet jack on the modem to that cable and then connect a router on the middle floor to that cable and that would give you a strong connection through the floor above and below.

As for a particular router, I'd go with a WRVS4400N from Linksys. Its not the cheapest router, but its not as disposable as most of the home routers.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at October 13, 2008 4:37 PM in response to Extended range wireless router?

I just wanted to add that parkslopemom's suggestion on the wifi extenders is a good idea and that their placement is key. They don't work well if they are not receiving a strong consistent signal. In other words, you have to place one on the first or second floor, not on the third floor. Don't try to use two on the same wireless network (one on the first and another on the second).

Posted by: thecomputerguy at October 13, 2008 10:21 AM in response to Extended range wireless router?

Splenda,

Regardless of the construction of your home, I would advise you that any signal you receive on the third floor will be frustrating to use since it will come in and go out too often. Consumer radios are just not designed to work reliably in the situation you describe. You should look for a way to get the router or access point into a location in the center of where you plan to use your computers.

There might be a good reason to leave the cable modem in the basement but that doesn't mean that you can't have a router or an "access point" higher up in the building. The access point or router is usually connected to the cable modem by a single cat5e cable, so if you have such a cable running between the basement and the location that you want to use the laptops in, you can use that cable to connect the two devices.

Its hard to know what your options are without more information on how the house is wired and how many apartments are in the building. Do all the telephone, LAN, and cable TV wires in the house run down to the basement? How many telephone extensions in the house? What about the TV's? Where are they located? Are the cables in the house inside the walls or are they just stapled to the walls?

If you'd like to try to bring the router upstairs (and leave the cable modem in the basement) post some more details on the existing wiring and I'll see if I can help.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at October 13, 2008 10:06 AM in response to Extended range wireless router?

Denton,

I run a one-man IT consulting business here in Brooklyn. I serve mostly small business and sophisticated home networks.

I've completed a few residential jobs (for other Brownstoners) similar to yours and quite a few commercial wiring jobs. Please email me at victor@diadian.com.

I'm able to help you plan your cable layout, specify materials and complete the actual connections. I can also give you realistic materials estimates if you don't already have them.

I don't want to leave my phone number in a public forum, so please email me at victor@diadian.com for details.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at October 12, 2008 12:20 PM in response to Looking for network consultant

I find it interesting too.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at September 12, 2008 12:36 PM in response to Bird Blog: Week 17

Awesome! So it looks like this is legit! Thanks for your help.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at August 29, 2008 5:10 PM in response to Is it legal to attach hallway lights to an exterior sunlight sensor

Thanks Bklyn Fire Alarm Guy. That was a big help.

My staircase is wooden and sprinkled. Its the only way up to the second and third floors. There is a skylight at the top and a window in the door at the bottom. It seems like I won't be allowed to install the sensor because the stair case would count as a "fire stair".

BFAG, can I bother you to explain what a "fire stair" is? I tried to look it up (Section 15-10) but I got lost after the second page in that section.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at August 29, 2008 4:41 PM in response to Is it legal to attach hallway lights to an exterior sunlight sensor

Guest 11:23pm, I was thinking about you guys when I saw the station closed. I started thinking that who ever has already bought into the buildings across the street are going to be thrilled!

Even though I live around the corner and own a car, I'm glad to see this station go. I hardly ever used that station. Maybe three times in the three years that I've lived in the area. It was an eyesore and served as a default hanging out spot for cars with loud radios.

I thumbed through the PDFs on the DOB website and saw that it is probably not going to be affordable, but that it is using the "quality housing" standards. So this will probably not be a pink monster and instead might actually be a welcome first sight, as you leave the subway station.

There's another large steel framed building going up on Myrtle near this lot. Its also on Myrtle but between Marcy and Nostrand, about 100' West from Myrtle and Marcy. I talked to a guy behind the construction fence and he told me that it was going to be rentals.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at May 31, 2008 9:08 AM in response to New Residential Development at Marcy and Myrtle

Kiddo,

Are you for real or are you just screwing around to see how many people respond?

I ask because the power system inside the computer is controlled by a digital circuit that should have been damaged by the short that tripped your power breaker. Usually a power event this large would have damaged the motherboard or at least damaged the power supply.

So either, you are VERY lucky or just fooling around.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at May 10, 2008 6:31 PM in response to Why did our USB port explode? - Anxiety about wiring

Try Angie Cordero of CCRS Management 212-979-1387. I've worked with her company for three years and found her to be very effective.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at April 28, 2008 6:48 AM in response to Coop Management Company needed!

BrookBry,

I haven't used them but I've seen their work in various stages since I have done cabling work on two of the houses that they designed and managed.

One was over the top and the other had clean lines with good materials and quality workmanship.

They are well worth taking to.

Prospect Architecture, Jeremy & Carla Shannon
www.prospectarchitecture.com.

If I'm not mistaken, they are advertisers on Brownstoner.com

Posted by: thecomputerguy at April 14, 2008 1:55 PM in response to Design/Build Recommendations

Its not so easy. There is no such thing as a single router that can reach all ten units in a NYC building. Regardless of the construction of the building, no single router is going to work well.

I've installed data networks, both wired and wifi in about a hundred homes and businesses, so I know what I'm talking about.

If you have to do this wirelessly, you can do it using multiple radios (one on each floor). There are still issues that can come up such as: incompatible laptops (yes it happens), low signal or no signal to some rooms, privacy and guarantees of service etc.

Your better and cheaper option would be to run armored cat5e cable into a closet in each apartment or some easy to access and hidden location inside each apartment and then have the tenant setup their own router at that location.

And forget about doing it cheap. Netgear routers and other home routers have the power to route traffic for about 4 computers and no more. You will need a real firewall and you will need a connection to the internet with at least 1 fixed IP per unit.

Don't forget that each you also have to setup rules regarding porn, tenants trying to host web servers or ftp servers or file sharing servers and what is allowed to be on those web servers, ftp servers or file sharing servers. And of course, bandwidth usage.

All in, you are looking at over 5k to do it wired. (3k for firewall + switch, 2k and up for wiring + patch panel)

For wireless you are looking at over $6500. 3k for firewall, 1500 for four wireless radios and 2k for wiring through the hallway.

Plus monthly internet service (20Mb) of about $250.00 (if you are lucky).

The reason you need a serious firewall is not for stopping intruders but more for monitoring what is being done on the network and enforcing bandwidth limits and rules (no incoming connections etc.).

Posted by: thecomputerguy at March 3, 2008 10:35 AM in response to Coop-wide Broadband?

6:17, thanks for confirming my thought on movement in the subfloor.

I've been looking locally for new thresholds for this project so that I can plan accurately but I haven't had any luck. Everything I found is too small and rises to its highest peak in the center. I need them to rise on one edge.

Perhaps this project should start with finding the right thresholds first.

Do you know how much space I should have between the bottom of the door and the top of the threshold? Its a modern 36" fire rated metal exterior door.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at February 21, 2008 9:27 PM in response to Seeking advice on a new tile floor

6:08, I'm surprised that I have to break the tongue and grove connection. I thought that the tongue and grove would actually be strong, if it exists.

I can imagine breaking that connection by running a circular saw along the joint with only 3/4" of the blade exposed. Once that's done, I would be left with a gap that would get wider and narrower with humdity. Should I put some material in this gap?

I like your idea of caulking around the subfloor and putting a membrane on top of the subfloor. I wouldn't have thought of that.

Posted by: thecomputerguy at February 21, 2008 9:12 PM in response to Seeking advice on a new tile floor

it brings me to the next question:

I have old gas 3/4" pipe running to the second floor. It is disconnected in the basement. Can I cut it on 2nd floor and use as conduit?

Posted by: bobjohn at March 16, 2009 3:50 PM in response to running network cable in wall

Bobjohn,

You've gotten good advice from thecomputerguy and firealarmguy. I do question the need for conduit for low-voltage cabling in the basement. I do not believe that is necessary. And if you can get a snake through the disconnected gas pipe, I would go for it. I suspect, however, that you will have some 90 degree angles along the way that would make it near impossible to snake.

Also, running Cat5, 5e, or 6 alongside power used to be taboo, but BICSI changed its strict stance on installation standards years ago. While NYC electrical code may not allow sharing of conduit, I suspect it would work technically as long as the current through the adjacent power cables is not too great.

Lastly, don't discount the use of WLAN AP's/repeaters to get the job done if you can't get the cable up and down without ripping open walls. Performance should be more than acceptable.

Posted by: renomandru at March 16, 2009 4:13 PM in response to running network cable in wall

I know it's a lot simpler to use wireless and if a booster can eliminate distance problems. Running cable in this day is silly, unless you're the one recommending it or you need mega-bandwidth. And using a licensed (aka expensive) person to install it is even sillier.

As for the gas line as a conduit, what is your worry? Of course you can use it.

Posted by: cmu at March 16, 2009 4:33 PM in response to running network cable in wall

I was faced with this same issue not so long ago.

Solution for me was Internet Over Power Line. Working very well. Much simplier than ripping open the walls. Speed is rated at 200Mb/s. Nots sure I am getting that but throughput has been much higher than wireless and reliability is WAY better.

I used Linksys.

Posted by: phripley at March 16, 2009 9:21 PM in response to running network cable in wall

call me if you would like someone to pull the wires and terminate. I do this all the time.

this stuff does not have to be in conduit.

Steve
www.thetinkerswagon.com
347-813-9635

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at March 16, 2009 10:39 PM in response to running network cable in wall

oh well. I got the second router and reconfigured the first NetGear into access point. Interestingly the new router works much better and I can connect to it from any point of the house. It is NetGear RangeMax N. I got it for $34. I hope all this microwave energy will not fry my balls.

Now I do not really need to run the cable and setup access point. :)

Thanks everybody for help and opinions.

Posted by: bobjohn at March 17, 2009 9:17 AM in response to running network cable in wall

SJ,

BobJohn explained the theory very well. Its the same theory as DSL over phone lines, --use different frequencies then what's already being used.

My issue with powerline networking is that you have to attach the internal components of your PC to your power lines. In case of a power surge-- your PC's motherboard and some components are toast. In normal networking, the only connection to your motherboard is via the power supply which absorbs many surges without any damage at all. With PowerLine, there is no way to protect against this since power line networking depends on an unbroken copper cable running to your PC's networking card.

In some cases it might a convenient workaround, but its not a good "plan A".

Posted by: thecomputerguy at March 17, 2009 10:42 AM in response to running network cable in wall

Hi I still don't have access to the internet and it wasn't until today that I was able to go to the library to retrieve these messages. There does't seem to be a problem with the Time Warner modem, for all lights ae one.
thecomputerguy I really don't know much about computers, so when you mentioned that I should start by plugging in a network cable from one of the ports on the back of the netgear to network port on the Pc I'm lost. There are 2 things plugged in the netgear one clip-in in the yellow and another (roundo)?

Posted by: Giovanna at April 6, 2009 9:47 AM in response to No Wireless Internet Connection

I guess it will be hard for Giovanna to run between library and home for each litle bit of advice. Maybe you can call me (646-522-5935) and I will try to help. Otherwise call Timewarner and they will walk you though the setup. Besides they can look at the state of your connection from their side.

Posted by: bobjohn at April 6, 2009 10:31 AM in response to No Wireless Internet Connection

I am working on a project with Gitta Robinson. She is located in Dumbo. Works with her husband. Very easy to work with and fees are reasonable.

Posted by: viscede at July 8, 2009 8:55 PM in response to Architect Recommendation