Try what Bob Marvin suggested first as shellac likely the original finish which is easily dissolved in alcohol.
If unsuccessful proceed to paint thinner, then strippers followed by lacquer thinner with course steel wool. Use mechanical removal techniques (steel wool and scrapers) in conjunction with chemical agents.

The problem with most strippers today is the waxes used to keep them in a gel form on the surface, they cause problems for most types of finishes used to top-coat. Clean very very throughly with lacquer thinner after stripping.

Once you discover which method of removal works best- hire day laborers to do it.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at July 20, 2007 8:48 PM in response to Help Removing Wood Finish (type unknown - not paint) from woodwork - options other than stripping?

If you would like some coarse sawdust (from solid woods)to absorb the water until you resolve the problem- e-mail me. (I have been saving it for a local gardens composting program, and it is really starting to build up.)

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at July 11, 2007 8:19 PM in response to Basement flooding all of a sudden

white oak. very hard, readily available.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at July 8, 2007 9:37 PM in response to Best wood species for Radiant Heat?

Are the moldings in question round or arched on top or are they all straight pieces? As long as they are all straight you can have them milled at Adriatic Wood or Dimension Lumber.

I suggest taking a piece of the existing profile with you. Dimension has several thousand profiles in their molder knife library. If they don't already have the exact knife you need , one will need to be cut for about $200. They will give you a price per linear foot in any species you want. BTW Adriatic doesn't carry clear Eastern White Pine.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at June 2, 2007 12:53 PM in response to brick moulding and Landmarks

Last season I bought a foam pad with a magnetic backing that totally deadens the noise of the drip. I bought it a Greshlers Hardware on 5th ave. It was large enough to cut for two units.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at June 1, 2007 1:43 PM in response to Air conditioner dripping.....

The north and south components are called stiles and the east and west parts are called rails. Stiles should be made using stave core construction if it is a hardwood door. Most softwoods, like Spanish cedar, are stable enough to make solid stiles.

A stave core is made up of strips of softwood (eastern white pine or basswood)with the grain turned in alternating directions (like a butcher block) for stability. Hardwood lumber is then re-sawn into 1/4" thick skins and laminated to the core. If you google "stave core" will find some illustrations.

It is not possible to attach veneer properly after the door is assembled as this step is done in a press.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at May 31, 2007 11:21 AM in response to Issue with New Front Doors

Poplar is prone to fungus growth and should not be used in damp areas. A good primer/paint will keep the moisture content in check. The most vulnerable part of the door and most often neglected is the bottom. For some reason "carpenters" enjoy trimming the bottom of the door and neglecting to seal it as well as the rest of the door. Perhaps this is because no one will ever look at the bottom of the door.

If the door is over 80" and is a solid core it will probably warp. If he built a stave core-it will be straight for the next 100 years (that is how the old ones were made).

It would be best to remove the hinges and hardware before applying finish to seal every part of the door. Prime your door with a linseed oil based primer followed by several top coats of a high-quality oil based paint. finepaintsofeurope.com

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at May 31, 2007 1:28 AM in response to Issue with New Front Doors

UV is brutal. Be sure the product you use to finish the doors is made for exterior wood. UV inhibitors are essential. It will say something about this on the can.
If you plan on staining get a pigmented stain (deeper tones protect better, as they have more pigments to refract light before it reaches the wood) followed by a yacht or marine varnish. Gloss coat first followed by you choice of sheen on top. If you go with paint- spend a lot on it (you get what you pay for). The cost of the product is negligible compared to the time you put into it.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at May 30, 2007 9:33 PM in response to stripping exterior door

I agree with the above poster. consolidant followed with epoxy is the proper way to restore rot in windows. If you want the difinitive guide to window restoration, check out a book called 'working windows'. Even if you don't DIY you will know what needs to be done.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at May 25, 2007 12:16 AM in response to Wood Window Repair & Tune-up

Charleston Hardware makes very nice reproductions. Their hardware is made for the Baldwin mortise lock body (which are also nice locksets), that they sell separately.

If your present Multi Lock cylinder is for a mortise lock, simply unscrew it and install on your new mortise lock. If the Multi Lock cylinder is for a rim lock (a separate lock, surface mounted on the interior of the door) you will have to have a mortise lock cylinder made at any Multi Lock dealer. You will need the card that came with the original lock.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at May 18, 2007 10:26 PM in response to Hardware for new front doors

When you say pine- do you know which species? There are about 20 species of trees called pine.

If it is reclaimed it is likely that it is long leaf yellow pine (aka southern yellow pine) which is old growth. This means the rings will be closer together producing a wood harder than harvested red oak. Search for "Janka Hardness Scale" to compare different species of wood.

Also, the way it is sawn will affect how hard the face is. Quartersawn much stronger than flat sawn.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at May 11, 2007 11:25 AM in response to Floor decision Pine vs Oak

Dykes Lumber sells a 5/16" x 2" red oak strip. It is easiest to stack them 12 high on a chop saw with a stop, so that each cut yields 12 pieces. If you are looking for a larger quantity or a different thickness, you could have it milled to your specifications (size and species) by Adriatic Wood or Dimension Lumber(both are in Brooklyn and both deliver.)

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at May 5, 2007 1:16 PM in response to Parquet Floors

If they are kitchen cabinets- use a degreaser such as soilax (available at Janovic) Then spray a primer such as Killz. If it is a open grained wood such as red oak, you may want to use a grain filler. Avoid lacquer based products around water.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at May 2, 2007 3:52 PM in response to Painting stained wood

Tempered glass is much stronger than regular plate glass, but shatters into small non-sharp pieces (so the burglar dosen't get hurt). This is what is used on the side windows of a car. Most glazers do not have a tempering machine in their shop and the glass will be sent out to be tempered.

Laminated or safety glass consists of two pieces of glass laminated to a sheet of clear plastic. This is what the windshield of a car is made of. It is very hard to break through. All glazers have this in stock.

If you have ¾” a laminated/insulated unit can be made to replace the existing (or in this case missing) glass.

On an existing door you will be limited on the thickness of the glass you can use. 1/4" is the most common.

MEGA Glass on Bergen and 5th could do it for you same day. However, he is closed most Mondays.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at April 29, 2007 6:47 PM in response to Advice on Securing Front Door Glass

The type of weather stripping you are looking for is called "spring-bronze". Go to springbronze.com. You should find what you are looking for.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at April 19, 2007 11:16 AM in response to weather stripping

tools for working wood on W20th. No classes, but you may find what you are looking for.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at April 13, 2007 11:37 AM in response to Woodworking classes?

Price is not bad, but not great for around town. Also, quantity affects price.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at April 13, 2007 10:35 AM in response to Quartersawn oak floors

When ordering this species it is expected that some will be rift and some will be quartered. Few yards will separate the two as they have very similar characteristics. There is no price difference between rift and quartered.

Personally- I prefer rift sawn to quarter sawn.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at April 13, 2007 10:04 AM in response to Quartersawn oak floors

Eli @ Sign Select. His shop is on 9th street b/t 2nd and 3rd ave.

If you want gold leaf done he will have to come to you and do it on site. Or he can cut gold foil and and put a black outline around it and give it to you to install yourself for much less. Have the size of the numbers and the font selected before you call him.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at April 7, 2007 11:01 AM in response to stenciling house numbers

Are you sure they are plated? Old hardware is usually solid brass. Hold a magnet up to it, if it sticks - it is plated. Platers usually have a minimum run price of $250 - $300. If it is solid call mark at

http://fieldenterprise.com/main.htm

They specialize in polishing old hardware.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at April 4, 2007 12:08 PM in response to replating hardware?

I am assuming that these are exterior doors. The lack of finish causes the wood to oxidize and appear lighter than the finished wood. You must finish the door with a marine varnish that has UV inhibitors. Spar varnish is easy to get. You can seal it with a gloss and top coat it with a satin.

Most door problems begin on the bottom rail because the door was undercut and never sealed, allowing moisture to wick its way up into the door. Old doors were made with hide glue, which has no water resistance and will de-laminate when exposed to moisture. To avoid future problems- remove the door and seal the underside too.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at April 4, 2007 9:39 AM in response to Best Product for Sealing Oak Doors?

Generally a door is fabricated to accommodate a multi-point lock by the maker. Few locksmiths know how to install a multi-point lock or cremone bolts.

Window Palace on Macdonald Avenue has a large showroom featuring dozens of the major manufacturers doors on display (not just photos in catalogs).

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at April 3, 2007 10:59 PM in response to French Doors to Garden -Security?

On an exterior out swing door one or two of the hinges need to have a non-rising pin (NRP). It looks no different than any other hinge when closed. When open a set screw is visible that releases the pin.

You need to use laminated or tempered glass in a door. Laminated or safety glass is two pieces of 1/8" glass laminated onto a plastic sheet- just like your cars windshield. I would use an insulated glass unit made of two laminated pieces of glass. It would take a very long time to break through that unit and is quieter!

Multi-point locks (which engage at the sill, head and strike)provide the best security. Cremone bolts are also very good for security because no hardware is installed on the exterior of the door.

If wood is laminated properly it will not warp.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at April 2, 2007 3:44 PM in response to French Doors to Garden -Security?

Check the track for obstructions inside the walls. Lift the door and set the sheaves (the wheels under the door)on the track. If the door continues to derail itself it may be because the bottom rail is warped. You can use washers b/t the sheaves and the door to compensate for a sagging floor.

Sheaves and track are made by Hettich.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at March 21, 2007 10:03 AM in response to pocket doors

Miguel Locksmith. On 4th Ave and Bergen I think.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at March 19, 2007 6:32 PM in response to Boerum Hill Area Locksmith

Many doors 2" and thicker were made this way. This is my personal favorite method of construction.
Imagine replacing the flat or raised panel with a paneled cabinet door. Most 1850's to 1890's doors are made this way. If The door is from the 30's it was probably made with an applied molding molding inside of the stiles and rails that appears to be a panel inside a panel.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at March 16, 2007 12:14 PM in response to Need to match old doors

How old is the door? Is the glass held in with glazing putty on the outside? or is there a wooden glazing stop?
BTW, The difference between muttons and mullions are that muttons visually separate glazed areas, where mullions structurally separate them. Newer doors use muttons over a single pane of glass and are not as strong but easier to replace.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at March 15, 2007 8:31 PM in response to Warped mullions on French door

What is the size of the doorway? I have an original set collecting dust in the back of my shop. If they fit you can have them. Need to be stripped, 4 panel, 32" x 96" x 2".

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at March 12, 2007 5:10 PM in response to Custom-made pocket doors?

I think- no, because you wouldn't have a chemical bond. You can always check with these guys:

http://www.sutherlandwelles.com

they may have a formulation that works.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at March 5, 2007 7:28 PM in response to Buffing and Finishing Wood Floors

Actually, all finishes begin as a gloss finish which is the strongest. Fumed silica is added to create a semi-gloss, satin, or matte finish. Silica is very soft, therefore weakens the finish. The gloss should be applied for the first two coats followed by a top coat in the sheen of your choice.

Poly really isn't that good of a finish, just an easy one to apply. Look into the polymerized tung oils made by Sutherland Wells. These are more traditional finishes. They penetrate the wood and harden from the inside.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at March 5, 2007 3:33 PM in response to Finish for wood floors?

Each type of sink has its place.

Undermount sinks are the sleekest. Easy to clean but require more skill to template, fabricate counter,and install. Also they eat up more space in the sink cabinet since they add the thickness of the countertop material to the depth of the basin (the good ones are 10").

Self rimming sinks are not as sexy, but may be the only choice for an under-sink dishwasher or if the countertop material needs to be concealed, such as Formica or a sloppy concrete countertop fabrication.

Vessel sinks work well in a powder room.

Apron front sinks are most often used in a country kitchen. They are big and heavy requiring a custom sink cabinet to be fabricated. They can be installed proud of the counter, flush with , or undermounted.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at March 2, 2007 9:12 PM in response to Under or Over

Try this:

adriaticwood.com

much closer to you and free delivery.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at February 23, 2007 10:22 AM in response to Hardwood Lumber in Brooklyn

DYKES LUMBER on 6th Street sells maple butcher block.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at February 22, 2007 2:10 PM in response to Looking for butcher's block

The molding (window casing) dose not have to be removed. Sash weights are accessible through the pocket cover or in the worst-case scenario with a hole saw after removing the parting bead. It doesn’t require any specialized tools, just know how. Check into a book called "working windows" by Terry Meany and sashchain.com or sashweight.com (same site)

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at February 10, 2007 8:18 PM in response to Fixing old windows with broken weights

"snowflake-pattern", sounds like glue-chip glass. If that is what it is, it was originaly made by making abrasions on the glass and spreading animal hide glue across the surface. As the glue dried it would chip off the surface of the glass leaving a snowflake like pattern (totaly random). Most glazers have it. Try Mega Glass on Bergen and 5th.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at February 7, 2007 11:41 PM in response to Transom Glass

The drawers you desire are called "metal box" or "metabox" drawers. It is attached to the drawer face and also serves as the drawer slide. Several hardware manufacturers make these parts usually in 2" increments. Look at Hafele and Blum.
BTW, Hafele sells almost every piece of hardware that IKEA uses.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at February 4, 2007 5:37 PM in response to akurum shelves

Not sure if they have a minimum order but, LIBERTY CEDAR in Rhode Island delivers to the Hamptons twice each week (everything is cedar there). They have quartersawn old growth 24 footers if you need.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at November 14, 2006 9:41 PM in response to where to buy cedar

Try to determine what type of finish was used on your woodwork. If it was an oil finish, it may need ocasional fortification with the same type of oil such as linseed or tung. Murphys oil soap is more of detergent than an oil. Avoid anything with silicones or waxes as it will cause refinishing nightmares.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at November 7, 2006 9:42 PM in response to Requesting Advice on the Care of Wood Details

I use chop sticks (bamboo)because they are hard and shutters are only made of soft wood. Use a sharp knife to sharpen them to a point then pound them in with a hammer and cut them off, predrill a hole with a drill bit just a little smaller than the shank of the screw that will be inserted. another alternative is two part epoxy stick (looks like a hot dog) nead the two parts together and pack into holes, in five minutes it will be hard as a rock. again i would pre-drill a hole before inserting a screw.( a pre-drilled hole is ALWAYS stronger than an undrilled hole.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at November 6, 2006 11:02 PM in response to Shutters with stripped screw holes

GLASS
Look into safety glass (also known as lami). That is similar to what a car winshield is made of - a sheet of plastic sandwiched between two pieces of glass. Even better an insulated glass unit composed of safety on both inside and out. This is more expensive but is the most secure option and prevents noise transfer best.

HARDWARE
A cremone bolt is a two point locking system for double doors that dosen't have any hardware on the outside of the door. Baldwin makes one as well as Omnia.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at November 1, 2006 6:05 PM in response to Windowed back door and safety

strip the doors to sharpen the details. You can then determine the original finish based on the species of the wood. If it is mahagony or black walnut it was probably varinshed. If it is pine it may have been a paint grade door. Paint the doors for the highest UV protection.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at October 27, 2006 9:34 PM in response to To paint or strip?

Sign Select, located on 9th street b/t 2nd and 3rd ave. can do gold leaf lettering. As an alternative he can cut gold foil vinyl letters in any font you desire.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at October 22, 2006 9:31 AM in response to Sign Writers?

What size is your door?

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at October 15, 2006 8:48 PM in response to exterior door

Sounds like you are in the market for a mortise lockset. Measure the size of the mortise to determine the size of the body. The body should be a little smaller than the mortise in the door. Also measure the distance from the edge of the door to center of the holes for the spindle. This will range from 2" to 3" this measurement is called backset.

You can order one here:
http://houseofantiquehardware.com

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at October 12, 2006 7:26 PM in response to Need new lock for old vesitbule doors

oil finishes are nice, but take more time. Try Sutherland Wells polymerized tung oils and stains.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at October 7, 2006 10:42 AM in response to Wood - No Poly Please!

Abbott is where the professionals go. Trust me.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at October 3, 2006 9:09 PM in response to Peel away

I use Mega glass and sash exclusively. Freddie really knows a lot about glass (he has 30 years experience). Ask him what he thinks you need, he won't lie to you.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at October 1, 2006 12:54 AM in response to MEGA GLASS

There is a product called zip-wall which consists of two extendable spring loaded poles that will hold a sheet of plastic from floor to ceiling. They also sell a zipper for the plastic that serves as a passage way. Shop vac makes an air cleaner for about $100 which could be run continously.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at September 24, 2006 9:06 PM in response to Dust Control

Rick is right. Lead is only a problem if it is injested(stomach). If inhaled (lungs) it is less of a problem as it will disipate. That is why chemical stripping is the only approved method of removing lead based paints. A tank is preferable. Try Degamba.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at September 20, 2006 11:25 PM in response to Furniture stripper for lead paint?

Dykes lumber on sixth street can get custom sized slabs fairly quickly. The stock species would be birch. If you changed to anything else they will sock it to you.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at September 15, 2006 12:09 AM in response to Closet Doors?!?

if they tip the a/c back very slightly, the drip will prob stop. Works like magic 80% of the time. Otherwise, go to the hardware store and tell them you want one of those tubing for an a/c drain. You slide it over a little opening at bottom of a/c (pretty obvious where it is when you look) and direct the agua elsewhere. happy summer.

Posted by: at June 1, 2007 4:10 PM in response to Air conditioner dripping.....

we had the same thing happen, and we just placed a small, old hand towel on top of our A/C. So, all drips were absorbed into the towel and the dripping sound became muffled.

Posted by: anony at June 1, 2007 6:55 PM in response to Air conditioner dripping.....

OP, can you clarify "the architect is through marvin". The distribution for Marvin is based in LI, they have architectural "reps" who are basically there to assist arcfitects in specifying Marvin but they are not architects.
Marvin has roughly 45 custom profiles available, unfortunatley it will cost much more than what Southslopewoodworks mentioned, but it will be factory applied, so there is a labor savings.
We could have provided you with any profile needed that Marvin doesn't offer. Sorry if that wasn't explained to you.

__

Bill

Posted by: Bill at June 2, 2007 5:17 PM in response to brick moulding and Landmarks

can you tell me who made the new doors, and what was the approx. cost? thank you.

Posted by: chelseagirl at June 3, 2007 8:22 AM in response to Issue with New Front Doors

the poplar in use today is great to work with and a fine choice for interior trim work. however, as southslope indicated, it's a poor choice for exterior applications because it's prone to degrading when exposed to the elements. the best thing you can do for the new doors you have is to be vigilant about keeping them primed, painted, and therefore, protected.
interesting to note that old poplar (e.g. 19th century) is a phenomenal choice for exterior applications. i've seen old poplar that hasn't been painted or maintained for decades that is completely intact and stable. the difference is due to forestry practices.
lastly, you'll note that southslope employed quotations around the word carpenter. southslope is correct again in indicating that many people who would be quick to adopt that name aren't really qualified to do so. a really good carpenter could take the very damaged doors you had apart, repair and rebuild them (using salvaged wood where patching was necessary) and leave you with better doors than you could buy new.
keep paint on the ones you have and you'll be ok.

Posted by: readplays at June 4, 2007 2:34 AM in response to Issue with New Front Doors

Any profile can be replicated, and if you have a piece of the original it's even easier. Go see Amor at Heights Woodworking on 3rd avenue and 6th st.

Posted by: raphael at June 4, 2007 11:16 AM in response to brick moulding and Landmarks

fairly common after days of heavy rains in old buildings... backyard drain might need unclogging... ground gets over saturated, backyard drain can't handle the excessive runoff and water makes its way through the rear foundation wall in my building...

Posted by: bren at July 11, 2007 8:47 PM in response to Basement flooding all of a sudden

Here is your problem one of two things. 1st your 4in main drain may be a little clogged with rust dirt sand ect so now you 4in drain works as a 3 or 2 1/2 in drain and cannot handle the flow of rain we had today. 2nd you 4in drain is all clear but thhe amount of rain we had was to much for it. Its like taking a bucket of water and pouring it in a funnel, know which problem you have befor you call your plumber.

Posted by: at July 11, 2007 8:48 PM in response to Basement flooding all of a sudden

John, I am poster from 7:16pm. Turns out our plumber was in the area last night and so he came by. We are going to have a drain installed in the concrete in our backyard. (We have a small patio that extends about 8 feet along the entire back of the house. The drain will be attached to a pipe that runs into the basement and connects to the sewer line. We are also checking the pipes that run under our extension. This connects to our gutter. (But we could not see any evidence of backup in this pipe but are having it checked just to be sure)

Posted by: at July 12, 2007 9:32 AM in response to Basement flooding all of a sudden

Who is your plumber? Is there anyone in particular whom people recommend for this sort of "investigative" plumbing? We have back-up and gutter problems - is a plumber the one to solve the whole thing? Thanks!

Posted by: anon at July 12, 2007 11:10 AM in response to Basement flooding all of a sudden