southslopewoodworks's Profile

Author's Comments

Hello. I am Nathan of Southslope Woodworks. I specialize in custom brownstone doors and can replicate any existing door. I have done many doors in the neighboorhood. You can email me at nathan@southslopewoodworks.com: I will send you photos of the doors I have made. Also if you are interested in looking at the doors I can take you to look at them.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at July 14, 2006 11:37 PM in response to Recommendations for customized exterior doors

hi there,

I use a gentleman by the name of Eli on Butler St. between 3rd and 4th ave. his company name is Sign Select. He dose and excellent job with gold leaf and vinyl lettering. I have used him to do the lettering on many doors that I have made.

p.s. his number is 718.246.1144

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at July 24, 2006 8:37 PM in response to sign painter for door number

Soxco stairs. Anton is an expert in his field.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at July 28, 2006 8:27 PM in response to Stairs

Hello. I am Nathan of Southslope Woodworks. I specialize in historic reproduction of brownstone doors. I would like to email you photos of brownstone doors I have made in your neighborhood. have done many doors in the neighboorhood.
My email: nanthan@southslopewoodworks.com.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at August 1, 2006 7:15 PM in response to Exterior Bstone Front Doors

Hello. This is Nathan of southslope.woodworks. My correct email is: nathan@southslopewoodworks.com

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at August 2, 2006 12:05 PM in response to Exterior Bstone Front Doors

try graffiti free nyc. they came and removed the graffiti off my shop with chemical, then steam pressure washing, then painted all for free. Also my police prescint in park slope has an anti-graffiti unit. I have been told they remove it for free in a timely manner as this discourages graffiti artists.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at August 8, 2006 10:34 PM in response to Graffiti removal?

Is the door hanging from hardware mounted to the header (newer)or are there rollers under the door that ride on a track(older)? If it uses rollers you may need to remove the door stop then tilt the door out. If it is hanging from the top there will be a mechanisim to release the door from the rollers.
Most likely plaster has fallen behind the door. You may be able to slide a yardstick in alongside the door and move the debris to gain a few inches of opening.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at August 19, 2006 12:08 PM in response to Single Pocket door won't open fully!

Try my friend Kathy. She is a real artist. Her shop is on Long Island but she lives in Park Slope. I belive she will come to you. Lots of samples on her website. Her e-mail is: kathy@cvglassart.com

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at August 20, 2006 2:06 PM in response to Stained Glass Skylights

Hello.

I am nathan from southslope woodworks and I make custom brownstone doors. I can tell you that the price for the installation of a door will variy greatly based on the existing conditions of the window. For example: if the window casing is original, would you hang a door with a jamb inside of it (standard size)or fabricate a new jamb the same size (custom) as the existing one and join them together. The latter of the two is more involved but the result is cleaner and a larger opening.

Also the cost of a door will vary based on the species of wood, finish, glass, and hardware. 5000 is a good price for a good quality job. I love to share my knowledge of doors so if you have any more questions call my shop. 718.832.1058

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at August 30, 2006 9:03 AM in response to replacing window with door

If the plaster cracks, any door that is directly above the beam may need adjustment as well. Here is a simple test before you start: measure the door openings diagionaly then compare the numbers to see how far out of square they are. That will give you some idea of what to expect when you jack up the beam.

Posted by: southslopewoodworks at September 2, 2006 9:08 AM in response to question about sagging beams?

Responses to Author's Forum Comments

Thank you so much for your explanation. It looks like I probably should have researched this more before I got the doors but for now, priming and painting carefully will be the best way to keep the doors from rotting or warping (much). Who knew? I appreciate your sharing of your expertise. Thanks again.

Posted by: original poster at May 31, 2007 12:15 PM in response to Issue with New Front Doors

Often there is a place to attach a length of rubber tubing so that the water directed elsewhere. Or you can use a small plastic funnel, attach McGuyver-like to the bottom of the unit, then a rubber hose to that.

Posted by: tag482 at June 1, 2007 2:07 PM in response to Air conditioner dripping.....

if they tip the a/c back very slightly, the drip will prob stop. Works like magic 80% of the time. Otherwise, go to the hardware store and tell them you want one of those tubing for an a/c drain. You slide it over a little opening at bottom of a/c (pretty obvious where it is when you look) and direct the agua elsewhere. happy summer.

Posted by: at June 1, 2007 4:10 PM in response to Air conditioner dripping.....

we had the same thing happen, and we just placed a small, old hand towel on top of our A/C. So, all drips were absorbed into the towel and the dripping sound became muffled.

Posted by: anony at June 1, 2007 6:55 PM in response to Air conditioner dripping.....

OP, can you clarify "the architect is through marvin". The distribution for Marvin is based in LI, they have architectural "reps" who are basically there to assist arcfitects in specifying Marvin but they are not architects.
Marvin has roughly 45 custom profiles available, unfortunatley it will cost much more than what Southslopewoodworks mentioned, but it will be factory applied, so there is a labor savings.
We could have provided you with any profile needed that Marvin doesn't offer. Sorry if that wasn't explained to you.

__

Bill

Posted by: Bill at June 2, 2007 5:17 PM in response to brick moulding and Landmarks

can you tell me who made the new doors, and what was the approx. cost? thank you.

Posted by: chelseagirl at June 3, 2007 8:22 AM in response to Issue with New Front Doors

the poplar in use today is great to work with and a fine choice for interior trim work. however, as southslope indicated, it's a poor choice for exterior applications because it's prone to degrading when exposed to the elements. the best thing you can do for the new doors you have is to be vigilant about keeping them primed, painted, and therefore, protected.
interesting to note that old poplar (e.g. 19th century) is a phenomenal choice for exterior applications. i've seen old poplar that hasn't been painted or maintained for decades that is completely intact and stable. the difference is due to forestry practices.
lastly, you'll note that southslope employed quotations around the word carpenter. southslope is correct again in indicating that many people who would be quick to adopt that name aren't really qualified to do so. a really good carpenter could take the very damaged doors you had apart, repair and rebuild them (using salvaged wood where patching was necessary) and leave you with better doors than you could buy new.
keep paint on the ones you have and you'll be ok.

Posted by: readplays at June 4, 2007 2:34 AM in response to Issue with New Front Doors

Any profile can be replicated, and if you have a piece of the original it's even easier. Go see Amor at Heights Woodworking on 3rd avenue and 6th st.

Posted by: raphael at June 4, 2007 11:16 AM in response to brick moulding and Landmarks

fairly common after days of heavy rains in old buildings... backyard drain might need unclogging... ground gets over saturated, backyard drain can't handle the excessive runoff and water makes its way through the rear foundation wall in my building...

Posted by: bren at July 11, 2007 8:47 PM in response to Basement flooding all of a sudden

Here is your problem one of two things. 1st your 4in main drain may be a little clogged with rust dirt sand ect so now you 4in drain works as a 3 or 2 1/2 in drain and cannot handle the flow of rain we had today. 2nd you 4in drain is all clear but thhe amount of rain we had was to much for it. Its like taking a bucket of water and pouring it in a funnel, know which problem you have befor you call your plumber.

Posted by: at July 11, 2007 8:48 PM in response to Basement flooding all of a sudden