Spring Cleaning

I've met them at beertable on 7th Avenue, nice couple. They have given a couple of classes there in how to homebrew.

Does cooking diner at home pay financially? As long as you count your time as worthless- it does. ;)

Posted by: southslope at February 3, 2010 4:29 PM in response to Streetlevel: DIY Beer Brewing Store in Gowanus

Is the crack occurring in the lamination or in one of the staves. Is it possible to get a clamp around the counter top? If so use a glue with type III water resistance. I would fill with a marine epoxy or a two part colored epoxy filler, as conventional PVA glues will only fill a gap of .005". We use these for repairs: http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=113

A marine epoxy such as West System will work as well. Tape-off the seams and the bottom and pour it in. The gap filling capability of epoxy is not as limited as conventional wood glue is.

Posted by: southslope at February 1, 2010 9:52 PM in response to Butcher Block

Long-leaf yellow pine has a hardness that rivals red oak. It is unlikely that it was used as a sub-floor in a brownstone. It was used extensively in Tribeca and other formerly industrial areas for floor joists that had to support a tremendous live load (cast iron machinery and the like). Your sub-floor is likely a white pine, pitch pine, or pumpkin pine (all of which are softwoods). A penetrating type of finish, like tung oil, will harden from within the pores of the wood- contributing to the overall hardness.

Posted by: southslope at January 19, 2010 7:42 PM in response to Original Pine Subfloor?

OC-65 AKA - chantilly lace. It is a popular color for cabinetry and we spray it often (but made up as a conversion varnish), so I know the formula. It is pure white with 1 drop OY (yellow) and 1/2 drop QV (indigo)- the result is a slightly warm white. I would not call it a pink, but it is not a cool colour.

Posted by: southslope at January 16, 2010 7:23 PM in response to White with a Hint of Rose

Hello Gerald.

What size pieces are you looking for? 75% of the entry doors that we make are made from reclaimed long leaf yellow pine (not the soft-wood that brownstone floor joists are made of). I have a lot of pieces 3 foot and under that end up in the wood stove. Feel free to stop by if you need smaller pieces and thiner long rips.

-southslope.woodworks
461 20th Street
Brooklyn, NY 11215
718.832.1058

Posted by: southslope at January 14, 2010 8:11 PM in response to Recycle Wood/Reclaimed Furniture

http://houseofantiquehardware.com/s.nl/it.A/id.6603/.f?partner=froog

Posted by: southslope at January 14, 2010 1:01 PM in response to Closet Dummy Door Knob

How thick? and will it need to be tempered? (most shops send that out)

Bear Glass on 20th and 7th Ave. (closest to you) is a large operation that can do it all. The price of the glass will depend on who you are. Glaziers get one price, professionals another, and retail customers...

It might be a hike but I've gotten some really good prices from Williamsburg Glass lately.

Posted by: southslope at January 13, 2010 11:16 AM in response to Cheapest Place for Glass?

Vinca,

It depends on which type of wood you have. If you have a cork floor, Osmo is great. It dosen't wear so well on other floors. It is good for vertical surfaces (that you don't walk on.)

I love tung oil, sutherland welles brand in particular. It takes a little more effort to apply it, but you have much more control over the tone (by adding dyes to the topcoats) and it penetrates the wood, hardening from within. It is very easy to re-apply and maintain, you don't need any specialized tools-just a scotchbrite pad and a rag. Tung oil leaves the wood feeling like wood not plastic- therefore my fave.

Posted by: southslope at January 9, 2010 8:55 AM in response to Wood Finishing Advice?

What dave said.

The reason that the satin is softer is due to the addition of dulling agents (like fumed silica) which are invariably softer. Therefore gloss first, followed by satin or dull.

An oil finish will look more natural, but requires a lot of time to build (sutherlandwelles.com). Osmo is an oil/wax finish that will build in two or three coats on raw wood and feels nice to the touch. It is good for paneling (light wear surface) and is easy to maintain or repair.

Posted by: southslope at January 8, 2010 11:43 AM in response to Wood Finishing Advice?

If you fancy Baldwin hardware- try precisiondoors.com.

TIP: If you order a "standard" finish you will have it tomorrow or the next day. Avoid finishes like pewter or antique satin nickel. You will have to wait for those.

Also, his prices can't be beat.

Posted by: southslope at January 5, 2010 11:38 PM in response to Exterior Door Hardware Source

If a big storm catches me by surprise- I got to Prospect Park or Owl's Head Park to ride. Never had any problems there and the runs are longer.

Posted by: southslope at December 29, 2009 9:17 PM in response to Closing Bell: Snowboarding on the Urban Slopes

Like denton said- it is the adhesive that will hold the planks to the wall, not the fasteners themselves. Use the smallest "pins" possible (like a 23 gauge pin nailer) to hold the strips of wood, until the adhesive sets. Rather than face nail the planks, put two fasteners into the tongue at 90 degree angles to each other (45 degrees to the face- a technique known as threading) and they will hold sufficiently in the drywall until the adhesive cures.

Posted by: southslope at December 29, 2009 9:00 PM in response to Help w/ Wooden Wall Finish

sutherlandwelles.com - the only tung oil I use.

The beauty of tung oil is that it is easy to maintain and it is a natural penetrating finish (unlike polyuretanes which are topical, and look like you wrapped your floor in plastic). Floors finished in tung oil look more like furniture than flooring. Personally, I like the smell of tung oil- it's quite nutty, with a hint of sage.

Posted by: southslope at December 22, 2009 8:51 PM in response to Tung Oil Finish on Pine Floor

Garrett Wade closed down the Manhattan showroom a couple of years ago. No worries there is a place 10x better which is now in Brooklyn.

Tools for working wood is on 33rd street b/t Second and Third Ave. Excellent selection of name brand tools plus they sell Festool and Gramercy tools (their own line). Joel, the owner, recently published a book about hand tools and he is always there should you happen to want to tap into his vast knowledge of woodworking tools.

toolsforworkingwood.com

Posted by: southslope at November 23, 2009 10:39 AM in response to Woodworking tool shop in NYC

tinarina- one of the properties will be occupied by the owner. The other will be sold or rented.

Posted by: southslope at November 19, 2009 6:34 PM in response to Development Watch: Turnaround at 424 Waverly Avenue

IMBY- the black paint used is from Fine paints of Europe. It is used on the door enframement, the windows, and the cornice. The doors themselves will be finished with a tung oil, as will all the wide plank (10"-16") floors.

Posted by: southslope at November 19, 2009 5:35 PM in response to Development Watch: Turnaround at 424 Waverly Avenue

Yes I am. Thanks Dave.

I am doing it for my friend Josey (owner) and it is actually two 12.5' wide row houses (424 and 426 Waverly.) The perma-stone exterior, on the before photo, was not only on the exterior of the building, but the interior walls as well. It was a good fit for the 12" deep shag carpets and mirrored ceilings that were in there before the renovation.

Posted by: southslope at November 19, 2009 4:04 PM in response to Development Watch: Turnaround at 424 Waverly Avenue

here is a link to a small album with the original tax photo and a few before shots:

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=1761281&id=53194651818

Posted by: southslope at November 19, 2009 3:36 PM in response to Development Watch: Turnaround at 424 Waverly Avenue

Wait 'till you see the new doors (they are sitting in my shop). We built them off of the tax photo- a perfect reproduction of the originals.

Posted by: southslope at November 19, 2009 3:32 PM in response to Development Watch: Turnaround at 424 Waverly Avenue

CGmodern, That is how I usually do it as well (with solid core slabs) but they don't come cheap at 8' tall.

If you need extra heavy duty barn door hardware, Greschlers on 5th avenue sells 12' lengths. I picked up a set this week for a shop project and I was surprised how inexpensive it was.

Posted by: southslope at November 18, 2009 12:42 PM in response to Plywood Sheet for a Door?

Plywood is bad for this application and solid wood edge glued is even worse.

Rosenzweig Lumber sells a product called lite ply that is made up of cross-banded basswood with 1/8" Italian poplar faces and 1/8 " between layers. The piece that I am holding in my hand is 1.5" thick that is made of three layers of basswood (3/8") thick and four layers of Italian poplar.

Because it is cross-banded (the strips of wood alternate directions) it is very stable and flat. The basswood is very light as well.

Pingpong tables are made from flake or mdf. 5x10 is a stock size in the industry- just not at home depot.

Posted by: southslope at November 18, 2009 9:51 AM in response to Plywood Sheet for a Door?

Hey, I am making the doors for that place. You've got to see the inside and side yard- HOT!

Posted by: southslope at November 13, 2009 2:15 PM in response to StreetLevel: Cortelyou Market, Wine Bar Coming Along

What type of metal is it, steel?

Tung oil works very well as it quenches the metal as it is a penetrating type of finish as is boiled linseed oil. Most polyurethanes are long-chain polymers and it is a topical finish which stays on the surface (not so good).

There are some clear lacquers formulated specifically for metal.

If it can be removed... clear powder coating an excellent finish for something that gets hot. Evernu dose this. They have an ad in the Brownstoner Directory.

Posted by: southslope at November 13, 2009 9:08 AM in response to Metal Window Frames

You have to know which type of finish was previously applied.

Finishes that are multi-component such as two part polyurethanes, epoxies, and conversion varnish need to be stripped and then reapplied as Arkady said. The active word in her post is "set" which refers to the cross-linking that takes place as that type of finish cures.

Most off the self polyurethanes, water bournes, and oils rely on a mechanical bond (from abrasion) for adhesion.

Shellac and nitrocellulose (lacquers) will re-dissolve into themselves upon contact with the previous coat.

Test an inconspicuous area before you do the whole thing.

Posted by: southslope at November 11, 2009 6:21 PM in response to Wood Countertop

I hear that southslope woodworks is alright ;)

Posted by: southslope at November 9, 2009 7:20 PM in response to Landmark Doors

Butcher block is made by laminating face strips of wood together so that the edge (quartersawn face) is the work surface. Wood is harder on the quartersawn (edge)face therefore it makes for a better work surface. Also, the wood will expand and contract more on the thickness than the width, contributing to a more stable construction. FWIW: I have been told that old school butcher blocks were made end grain to absorb the impact of a meat cleaver and produced a better cut in meat as the knife went into the fibers of the wood.

Since you are doing oak (white, I hope) a wire-brushing before finishing will produce a richer look. If you want darker, the aniline dye stain (from Sutherland Welles) is added to the topcoats of tung oil NOT to the unfinished wood.

Posted by: southslope at November 9, 2009 4:00 PM in response to Butcher Block Treatment

Tung oil. More specifically Sutherland Welles tung oil which is available at Mazzone hardware on Court Street. I believe most of their products are food-safe. Very easy to apply and maintain.

Posted by: southslope at November 9, 2009 1:49 PM in response to Butcher Block Treatment

Omar and Bella of artisticwoodcrafts are great at this type of thing. Just be sure to have it made of a durable wood (not poplar, as it is prone to fungal growth).

Posted by: southslope at November 8, 2009 7:07 PM in response to Wooden Cornice Ornaments

The rating should be stamped on the foam boards, as they differ from one type to the next. I have a piece of the pink foam here that states 2" = R10, 4" = R20 . I think that green foam is lower in value and white is way less.

Posted by: southslope at November 2, 2009 9:35 AM in response to R Value of Stucco Styrofoam?

I am most impressed that you found someone that would work with Osmo (great product). It likes to go down thin- very thin . On a large surface I would use a squeegee. Great choice.

Posted by: southslope at November 1, 2009 8:49 PM in response to Great Floor Contractor

I throw it in my wood stove. gives good heat.

Posted by: southslope at October 31, 2009 1:36 PM in response to Creative Use of Leftover Floor?

Cork- finished with Osmo. soft, sustainable, forgiving.

Posted by: southslope at October 24, 2009 7:51 PM in response to Kitchen Floors

The chalk board paint that BenMoore sells is a water borne formulation (in quarts). A more industrial version is available at Abbott Paint and Varnish but it is only sold in gallons. A quart is more than enough for a refrigerator.

I used a black primer on 1/4" MDF and then applied the chalkboard paint on the last few I made for a resturant and they work very well.

Posted by: southslope at October 24, 2009 10:03 AM in response to Blackboard Panel for Fridge

I would do two layers of 1/2" in alternating directions or one layer diagonal to avoid squeaks (from seams overlaping) with a spread of adhesive or green glue between. but i've been told that i overbuild things.

Posted by: southslope at October 22, 2009 8:41 PM in response to Installing Wood Floors

Dave is right about the foam. be sure to use the formula for doors and windows (low expansion). I use an infrared thermometer to pinpoint the spot where the heat loss is occurring. Zero International (in the Bronx) has hundreds of different types of weather stripping and sealing systems for all types of doors and windows. The catalog is online.
Personally, I like spring bronze.

Posted by: southslope at October 22, 2009 9:51 AM in response to Winterizing Cafe Windows

love the corrugated idea. How 'bout glass. You can paint the back any colour you want or go with white lami. It is the easiest to clean.

Posted by: southslope at October 19, 2009 8:42 PM in response to Kitchen Backsplash

The one that I installed on my office door works very well. In fact I had to set it back a little bit because it overcompensated the spring hinges. You could use two- or go buy an ugly closer.

Posted by: southslope at October 19, 2009 2:04 PM in response to Soft close/open for large doors

The blum dampeners also come in a screw-in and drill in version. The drill in type requires a 10mm hole which I would install in the hinge side of the door or the door stop if you have a sufficient rebate. It's the one in the middle:

http://www.hardwaresource.com/Store_ViewProducts.asp?Cat=1248

Posted by: southslope at October 16, 2009 5:48 PM in response to Soft close/open for large doors

I can vouch for HappyDaddy's windows, as I have seen them in person and they work well. I can't overemphasize the importance of weather stripping as he mentioned. In a brownstone window more heat loss occurs due to convection not conduction or radiation. An insulated glass unit will help more with preventing heat gain and reducing sound transmission. FWIW the further apart the two panes of glass are, the more efficient the unit becomes, that is why storm windows are good- basically it is a 4" thick insulated glass unit.

Posted by: southslope at October 12, 2009 4:34 PM in response to New Double Glass in Old Windows?

The best finish for a radiator is powdercoating.

Ever-Nu on 20th Street can do this for you. It may need to be sandblasted first (which they do). It can be done in any color and sheen including clear and it will last forever.

Posted by: southslope at October 6, 2009 3:45 PM in response to Radiator Paint Color Options

The square spindle?

some are threaded others are not- depends how it sets. The standard spindle is for a 1.75" door. Yours must be less. I would do what dibs said to do. If you go to a locksmith, take the lockset with you as there are three spindle sizes and several different types.

Posted by: southslope at October 1, 2009 5:08 PM in response to Replace Door Handles

14th street.

Posted by: southslope at September 27, 2009 2:44 PM in response to Painting Outdoor Bay Window

My friend Josey Delgado only paints with Fine Paints of Europe. He painted the storefront of beer table on 7th Avenue this week. His number is 917.763.3073.

Posted by: southslope at September 27, 2009 1:16 PM in response to Painting Outdoor Bay Window

"As this is a bathroom, I would suggest tempered glass for your safety."

Laminated glass is much safer than tempered- especially in a bathroom. Tempered breaks into lots of little squares which hurt when you step on them barefoot. Laminated glass stays in place if it is broken.

The side windows on most cars are tempered and the windshield is laminated. I believe that Volvo is now using laminated glass on the side windows for added safety. I saw a Volvo in Park Slope the other day with an indentation in the shape of a boot. Apparently the break in was not successful.

Posted by: southslope at July 21, 2009 5:12 PM in response to Security Bar Alternatives?

Our standard on a front entry door is an insulated glass unit comprised of 1/4" laminated glass with a 1/4" spacer and another piece of 1/4" laminated glass. Basically the equivalent of two car windshields. Very secure. If you desire more opaque glass in the bathroom- you could use white lami, which is two pieces of glass bonded to a white piece of plastic, or the chicken-wire glass. Any glazier will make this- you just need to give him direction.

Tempered is like six times stronger. The only thing I don't like about it it that it breaks in to little squares, so that "mister bad guy" doesn't hurt himself getting in.

Posted by: southslope at July 21, 2009 12:24 AM in response to Security Bar Alternatives?

You are referring to the window glass and not the sash right?

My weapon of choice would be a glass scraper. Basically a 4" wide razor blade on a handle. Scrape with the glass wet. This will lubricate it so you don't scratch the glass.

Posted by: southslope at July 20, 2009 1:00 PM in response to Removing Paint Mist from Window?

Thanks so much RH-

Posted by: greenwoodgeneral at January 21, 2010 10:55 AM in response to Original Pine Subfloor?

The West System Marine epoxy mentioned in another post has a powder thickener that can be added to help it take up gaps better, though it will harden with a whitish color. I would venture to say that sawdust can probably be added to the West System to achieve the same result whilst coloring it like the wood; you would have to check with their tech support people on that though - they are helpful.

steve

Posted by: thetinkerswagon at February 2, 2010 12:54 AM in response to Butcher Block

It's not the edge that is cracking, it's actually the middle, where two pieces of the butcher block must have been glued together. I don't know the technical terms but it's not the edge. Also, I can't remove the counter top in order to clamp it properly, so I don't think that will work. Thanks for the suggestion though. I was hoping there is some kind of filler, almost like a spackle that you can just fill it in, that exists for wooden floors.

Posted by: bodhi_brooklyn at February 2, 2010 9:17 AM in response to Butcher Block

it's possible that this is a result of dry air and shrinking in the wood. if that's the case and you fill the gap with anything rigid, there could be problems when the wood expands when humidity increases in the spring and summer.

Posted by: BHS at February 2, 2010 3:10 PM in response to Butcher Block

you can mix whit tint, ....pink color mr luis he can help contact luisenrique0571_62@hotmail.com

Posted by: luisenrique0571 at February 2, 2010 9:43 PM in response to White with a Hint of Rose

I am having the same problem as the person that has large doors but wants to close the so that it doesnt slam. You guys said to get a door closer. I have a door closer but it is a residential door closer so it doent have a latching speed-only a swing speed. So it shuts loud still. You also suggested the Blumotion slow close door device, but it is for cabinet doors. Do you think it wuold work on regular wood doors like mine? Please reply soon. Thank You!

Posted by: dantheman4 at February 6, 2010 10:40 AM in response to Soft close/open for large doors

I only use oil for trim. http://www.caseysbuilding.com

Posted by: caseysbuilding at February 8, 2010 6:19 PM in response to oil based paint