shalman's Profile
Author's Posts
November 3, 2009
Illegal Dumping, Drugs, Rats
We are having a continuous problem with a small secluded block at the end of our street: Gregory Place between Butler and Baltic, this is right behind the Key Food on 5th Avenue. This is probably one of very few blocks in Park Slope that is quiet, secluded and non-residential, but it is adjacent right next to our block, so whatever happens there affects all of us and we have to walk past it to get to our houses.
The block is suffering from constant illegal dumping, people doing drugs, soliciting sex, dumping human and dog excrement, and all kinds of other illegal activity. I've tried calling 311 several times in regards to this and nothing came out of it. I am not sure how this situation can be resolved: it is just very unsafe on many levels. Having video cameras to catch illegal dumpers would help, but we do not know where to start to get help.
Any advice/ideas from brownstoner readers will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you.
October 28, 2009
Staining Regular Oak Floors Dark
Hello,
I want to stain my floor dark brown. I know many people had issues with achieving the right color and success depends on many things. I wonder what color stain combination worked best and is it a requirement to wipe off the stain after it is applied. Also, what do you recommend for top coat?
Thank you
September 28, 2009
Finishing Basement
I am considering turning my large basement into an apartment for some of my family members to stay in when needed.
I would like to have a small kitchen and bathroom there. How do I go about finishing the basement in a legal manner? Do I need to file with DOB for permission to install a bathroom and a kitchen? Does it take a long time? What if my contractor is my relative who may not have a license. Do I need someone licensed to sign off on the bathroom and kitchen plumbing for it be legal?
Any advice will be appreciated.
Thank you.
September 21, 2009
Outdoor Lighting
I own a 3 family house in Park Slope. My front yard is very well lit by an adjacent street lamp. Do I still need to turn on the light by my entrance door? Is it a legal requirement? If yes, what's the best solution to ensure the light is automatically turned off during day light?
Thank you.
June 30, 2009
Tri-State Window Factory
I am considering replacing windows in my house. My house is not a brownstone and is not landmarked. So I need something rather basic, but I would like windows which help with reduction of noise and are energy efficient.
I looked at Tri-State Window Factory. The salesman gave a good pitch, but I am not sure.
Any other recommendations? Anyone used Tri-State Window Factory?
Thank you.
May 19, 2009
How Much to Pay a RE Broker
I am about to start aggressively selling my house in Windsor Terrace. I posted an Open House notice on craigslist and got a decent response. I sold a house before on my own, and am pretty confident about my selling skills. However, after I posted the ad, I got contacted by a couple of real-estate agents from the top agencies claiming they have perfect buyers for me and would like an opportunity to show it to them. Given the urgency of my situation, I am considering But I don't want to do that on an exclusive basis as I might be able to sell it on my own.
I am thinking of offering the agents 3% commission. Do you think they will take it? Does my plan sound doable and reasonable?
Any pointers will be appreciated.
Thank you
April 23, 2009
Refinance Closing
I am about to run out of the my 09-day rate lock on my mortgage refinancing. The bank people messed smth up and it took them longer than expected. They promised to set up a closing within 3 days before my rate lock expires but have not done so. I am calling my mortgage officer and she is not responding. What is going happen? Am I going to lose $700 fee for locking a rate? Am I going to start all over again in this process? Why are they avoiding me, does it behoove them it to let the rate lock expire?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.
February 12, 2009
Do I Need a Permit?
Hello,
I need to fix the cracks in the facade of my brick townhouse. In addition to that, I need to fix the stoop and cornice. I am getting mixed messages from people providing me with quotes to fix the issues. Some say I need to have a DOB permit to do that and others say I dont need it.
Where can I find out this information for sure. Anyone familiar with this issue?
December 8, 2008
DOB Violation
I recently got a bunch of DOB violations. This was my first time to appear before a ECB judge and looks like I could have got out from most of them if I was only prepared.
Now I am facing with having to pay the penalty and fixing the problem. I plan to pay for the violations right away but I am not be able to fix them immediately due to some family issues. My question is how long can I wait until fixing the violations? Are there penalties for delay?
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you.
November 6, 2008
Violation Notice from DEP
I got 4 violation notices on my townhouse in WT. Someone made an anonymous complaint and an inspector showed up. I am renting my house to a woman's shelter. They very quiet and well-organized. They are certified by the city in the that location, they are up to code on everything as their every 6 months certifications shows. So the Administration from the Shelter told me that the judge will dismiss my violations once they see that this is perfectly legal and its certified by Department of Children and Family Services.
I am still worried as I never dealt with an issue like this. I am also getting all kinds of solicitations by mail from lawyers and engineers promising to remove the violations for a fee.
Any experience with the situation like this? Do I need to do before appearing before the judge? Anything that will help me correct the violations?
Thank you.
Author's Comments
Thanks everyone, all your comments are very helpful.
The instructions by Longstreet sound unorthodox and the easiest? Do they really work? Longstreet, do you happened to have pictures?
Thank you.
Posted by: shalman at October 28, 2009 5:14 PM in response to Staining Regular Oak Floors Dark
I got corrugated metal sheet that you can glue on. Looks great with my IKEA -- cheap and easy. Have had that for 3 years and I can attest to its durability and ease of use.
They have different versions -- with dots, plain, lines, etc.
http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/lg_display.cfm/catalog/2009_master/page/379
Posted by: shalman at October 19, 2009 7:36 PM in response to Kitchen Backsplash
My basement has windows although very small ones. What does below grade mean?
Thank you, Dave.
Posted by: shalman at September 28, 2009 5:00 PM in response to Finishing Basement
Thank you, everyone, for very helpful suggestions. The energy saving lamp with light sensor sounds perfect!
Posted by: shalman at September 21, 2009 5:52 PM in response to Outdoor Lighting
I will do so. Thank you for the great tips.
Posted by: shalman at May 19, 2009 12:32 PM in response to How Much to Pay a RE Broker
I decided not to put inside pics as what's there currently is not very nice. The house is being currently occupied with very large family with many kids and its a mess. And I point that out in the ad saying the house requires interior renovation. However, the walls are very solid and the floors are wood and the ceilings are high although there is not much original details left. People have to come in and decide if they can take on the project of renovating it. Also, the house is more spacious on the inside than it looks on the outside.
Posted by: shalman at May 19, 2009 12:25 PM in response to How Much to Pay a RE Broker
The house is Vanderbilt Street between East 2nd and MacDonald Avenue. Here is the link to the craigslist posting:
http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/reo/1172468164.html
Does the price sound about right? If anyone is interested, please contact me at vanderbilthouse@gmail.com.
Thank you everyone for the tips.
Posted by: shalman at May 19, 2009 12:14 PM in response to How Much to Pay a RE Broker
I found Muhamed is fairly good and reasonably priced. I had him redo my house facade. His number is 917-855-5459.
Posted by: shalman at April 14, 2009 3:30 PM in response to Exterior House Painter needed
I have the same issue and I also bought them in Red Hook garden center. I spent over $800 on various plants and there are a few large bushes and trees which look dead. I was just hoping maybe its too early in the season for them to have any sign of life. I am waiting for them to come back to life...
How can I avoid this in the future?
Posted by: shalman at April 9, 2009 10:53 AM in response to My Plants Are Dead
Interesting to see these timely comments about Nick as he is about to start working on my facade as well. Heard many good things about him. I live in the neighborhood as well.
Posted by: shalman at February 25, 2009 1:53 PM in response to contractor feedback
Vinca, and everyone else, thank you so much for very helpful answers.
Posted by: shalman at February 12, 2009 4:45 PM in response to Do I Need a Permit?
Thank you for the tips. I believe my building is not landmarked and it is in Windsor Terrace.
Posted by: shalman at February 12, 2009 3:25 PM in response to Do I Need a Permit?
What is a masculine counterpart to the expression for "women of ill repute"?
Posted by: shalman at January 14, 2009 5:48 PM in response to Quote of the Day
What concerns me the most is that the poor Mexican family who lost their bread-winner and did not get compensated a bit either by the sub-contractor or the contractor. It is heartbreaking to listen to the details of the ordeal the family is going through after they lost their loved one. And yet, after paying a pittance of a fine (even with fines they are supposed to gross over 40 million after the completion of construction), no one was forced or felt any moral obligation to help the family...
The brownstoner community should try and change that. Those bastards need to pay up. And people should boycott that building...
Posted by: shalman at November 19, 2008 10:02 AM in response to The Ghosts of 525 Clinton
Thank you, Steve, for very helpful suggestion.
Posted by: shalman at September 25, 2008 10:44 AM in response to Reasonably Priced Pavers?
It can be gas. Call up Key Span and they will show up within an hour and give you an idea. Its free.
Posted by: shalman at September 25, 2008 10:17 AM in response to weird smell- closing soon
I recommend Muhammed. He is a little bit difficult to understand but he is very reasonable and is very hardworking and does great job with facades. He gave me great price and did wonderful job. His number is 917-855-5459. Say Emilia recommended.
Posted by: shalman at September 17, 2008 10:07 AM in response to Looking for facade contractor
I would recommend Muhammed -- he loves his job, extremely reasonable and I love what he did for the exterior of my brownstone. His number is 917-855-5459. Say Emilia recommended.
Posted by: shalman at August 11, 2008 4:42 PM in response to need exterior mason recs
I would use Muhammed, he is excellent, has great crew, extremely reasonable and nice. His number is 917-855-5459. Say Emilia recommended
Posted by: shalman at August 4, 2008 9:04 AM in response to Painter and Landscaper Needed
I used this guy, he was very reasonable and great to work with. But you have to make sure you closely supervise just like with anyone else, but he is very agreeable and great to work with. His name is Evan and his number is 646-523-8279. Say Emilia recommended.
Posted by: shalman at September 5, 2007 9:35 AM in response to Help! Painter, Flooring Person Needed ASAP!
I am on Butler between 4th and 5th Avenues.
Posted by: shalman at August 31, 2007 2:42 PM in response to Do I need Flood Insurance
Thank you everyone for your advice. However, I would not have called the police if it was not warranted. First, the people are refusing to do anythiing about it -- although she is a home stay mom and can do the practice during the time when we are not home. When we make several attempts to try and reason with them, their father got very angry and almost violent and prompted to call the police. The paino playing is indeed very loud and it is EVERY day for an hour after we come home. I can't get any rest after work in my own house.
Again, if they could just hear us out and try and smth about it, I don't think I would have been this frustrated. But these people are unapproachable and they don't make any attempt to help the situation. I guess the only thing we can do now is to soundproof the wall. Thank you, CrownGardener for the helpful tip.
Posted by: shalman at August 31, 2007 2:40 PM in response to Piano Playing Noise Daily from Neighbors
Responses to Author's Forum Comments
The "interest" can come in the artwork on the walls and maybe an interesting bowl, glassware, red espresso maker, etc.
Posted by: mopar at October 20, 2009 12:09 PM in response to Kitchen Backsplash
There are many shades of "white" available -- cream, off white, grayish white, bright white, etc.
Posted by: mopar at October 20, 2009 12:11 PM in response to Kitchen Backsplash
We're in the progress of doing an inexpensive kitchen where we specified a great, graphic wallpaper (just at the backsplash, everything else painted) that will get covered with clear glass.
Can't wait until it's finished to see it!
Posted by: JimHill at October 20, 2009 4:06 PM in response to Kitchen Backsplash
JimHill, will you post a photo on Forum when you do finish that backsplash? Sounds cool and I'd love to see it!
Posted by: traditionalmod at October 21, 2009 9:41 AM in response to Kitchen Backsplash
I'd be happy to. Job's going slowly, so it could be a while.
Posted by: JimHill at October 21, 2009 11:17 AM in response to Kitchen Backsplash
I agree it sounds unorthodox. Regular linseed oil isn’t a particularly fast dryer. With only a cup of turps and pint of stain, the majority of the mix was pure oil. If it was brushed on and not wiped off, it will perform perhaps less like a stain and more like a toner glaze with a thin barrier film on the wood? Usually, stain is vigorously buffed off the floor so as not to leave a film coat, but just so it penetrates the wood pores and seals them (even when straight oil is used as a final finish for furniture, it is applied and wiped off…oil isn’t a varnish and doesn’t harden like a film finish). If you can’t get as dark as you want, try reformulating the stain and/or water popping the floor.
The point of wiping off the stain, particularly for a water base topcoat, is you want the stain to penetrate, color, and also seal the wood….that is, to prevent the waterbase finish from soaking into the wood and from raising the grain. However, traditionally, you do not want a thick oil film layer on the floor as that can create adhesion issues for the waterbase topcoat…check with the manufacturer if they recommend that. Long term durability will be the acid test.
Also, plain linseed oil isn’t a particularly fast dryer. Make certain the stain is dry before a waterbase top coat is used. You do not want the oil/solvents off gassing underneath of a dried/drying water base topcoat. Again, it could lead to compatibility adhesion issues. Time will be the true test: if it works, it works.
If you are experimenting, best to consult with the technical department/chemists of the brand of top coat you are using.
A Leonardo DaVinci masterpiece, The Last Supper started peeling apart and falling off the wall not long after it was painted…he was experimenting with a new technique, but apparently he didn’t do enough testing for bonding issues before committing.
Posted by: Oxygen at October 28, 2009 5:52 PM in response to Staining Regular Oak Floors Dark
Unorthodox as it may sound of course there are a few precautions in finishing a floor yourself if that's what you are still thinking. The floor I finished this way was new white oak flooring. Yes, the proportion of linseed oil to the other ingredients seems like a lot, but I did not soak the newly sanded floor with it, I applied it very, very sparingly which is why the color had to be what I wanted the first time. I did a dozen color tests before I was happy. I did not flow it on thick like I was painting woodwork. It was more like a wipe application. I did let it dry for a few days to a week, I had that option, I didn't need to walk on it that day. So now, I gather that was the most important thing to do was to let it dry throughly, which it did. I didn't get any cloudy, milky, hazy spots when I applied the water based finish.
The water based finish worked great. Again, a nice thin painterly layer, twice, like the product recommended, not a glob it all on in an hour, I took my time. I did it last summer and the only defect I can find so far is where my son's toy truck made a nice scratch, so yes its not like iron.
I decided to do this after seeing cape cod floors that get a lot of sand abrasion and asked some flooring guys there how they prefer to finish them, that's where I got the Linseed oil and turpentine recipe, very of the earth, blah, blah, blah.
Their final finish was wax though, which needed to be reapplied every other year, which I did not want to have to do. I did ask them (4 different floor people) about sealing in the oil and turps and they all said as long as it was really dry, it should be okay.
So that was their opinion.
I'm not trying to sell you on my method, it seems to have worked for me and several people now have asked me about it when they see the floors - Will it last a hundred years? was it correct?, will it chemically breakdown over time? I don't know.
My advise really is ask a floor expert what you should do, not a blogger. Oxygen's information sounds solid. I'm not a professional floor person, just a talented amateur who has an interest in doing things myself because I can't really afford to pay the extortionist prices trades people are charging these days. I'm sure they are worth it but, I just can't do it so I have to use plan "B" most of the time.
I also don't think a picture on a monitor will give you the information that is the most value to you in order to make the kind of decision you need to make before embarking on a project that you will see for a long time to come. If you make a mistake, its a big one. I'm not trying to hide anything, I just think you should consult the flooring experts.
Posted by: Longstreet at October 29, 2009 6:17 AM in response to Staining Regular Oak Floors Dark
Stain may not be the right product. For dark, rich, vibrant floors evocative of 19th Century use an aniline dye. These dyes, though dark and potent, are very transparent thus allowing the grain to shine through. An experienced flooring contractor, such as Norwegian Wood, will be very familiar with this type of application. Ed Kopel Architects, PC
Posted by: edkopel at October 29, 2009 9:18 AM in response to Staining Regular Oak Floors Dark
Any thoughts about what to do with old pine floors from the 1890s? The floor guy told me they will be very light with water-based polyurethane. I was planning to stain them a medium to dark brown walnut type color.
But now that I'm reading these posts I'm wondering if that's a good idea. Is it tacky to stain old pine floorboards? The house is full of very dark (painted) woodwork, so I think light floors will look very weird.
Probably originally the house had wall to wall carpets and linoleum.
Thanks!
Posted by: mopar at October 30, 2009 1:48 PM in response to Staining Regular Oak Floors Dark
Also, I'm sure you already know this because everyone does, but don't leave oil soaked rags balled up, make sure the room has plenty of ventilation and don't smoke. The Daily News had a story in the last six months about some guy who created a fireball by not ventilating the basement unit he was refinishing.
Posted by: serpentor at October 30, 2009 2:02 PM in response to Staining Regular Oak Floors Dark
Slopefarm (and everyone else), the advice is really appreciated! I will share our experience after this process comes to some kind of conclusion.
Thanks again!
Posted by: shalman at November 3, 2009 3:29 PM in response to Illegal Dumping, Drugs, Rats