We had exactly the same sentiments. We wanted to keep the southern yellow pine light. I first tried a tung-oil based finish. Don't know what I was thinking. So orange I had to sand it all off. Duh. And it was OIL, which meant sanding down deeper.

We settled on a a water-based finish with a hardener (2-part mix as Steve described), satin finish. It did darken the would a bit, but no orange. And it has held up well. I am not sure if I'll have the confidence to use it on the kitchen floors, but everywhere else, yes.

Good luck.

Posted by: renomandru at November 1, 2009 7:09 AM in response to Urethane

Zuffy is right, although with many manufacturers of jacks and patch panels the insulation displacement caps alone will suffice without the need for a punch-down tool.

Leviton, Amp, Hubbel, Seimon, and many other reputable manufacturers of jacks and patch panels are readily available at suppliers like Lendy's Electric or over the Internet. The jacks and caps for cable terminations are color-coded, so that a handy person can easily do it. $5-10 materials per termination at each end would cover it.

And $1400 for simply terminating these cables is CRAZY. If they have to still cut boxes into the walls for a flush jack, then that might be another hour per location, but still, it sounds your contractor is taking you for a ride.

I used to manage large-scale cabling projects (2000+ drops), so feel free to contact me for free advice. andru3 at gmail.com

Posted by: renomandru at October 30, 2009 1:20 AM in response to Brownstone Ethernet Network

And another recommendation for Brooklyn Insulation. Super fast, friendly, a good value.

There is simply no consensus on the need for roof vents, Dave. That is especially true with cellulose, which can absorb and release moisture much better than the fiberglass that Federal Conservation uses. I found Brooklyn Insulation to be about less than 2/3 the cost of Federal, who would have insisted on cutting holes in the roof and vents.

Posted by: renomandru at October 12, 2009 8:49 AM in response to Blown In Insulation

CH2007, you are absolutely right to be asking these questions, and I do think you can educate yourself on-line pretty well about the dangers of not doing showers right.

The link provided by CMU is a good start, but I would argue that most licensed and insured contractors still do it the old fashioned way (from scratch a lead liner w/ mud/metal mesh,thinset and tile).

I too, would argue against the lead liner and consider newer-age liner or pan materials. Pre-formed (including slope, drain cut-out, etc.) is the way to go if your shower pan and drain placement conforms to those offered by the manufacturers. On the link from CMU, you will see an add from Schluter, which is the system I used, although I had to form my own pan. The membranes and drain systems they provide convinced me.

And while Wonderboard is an ideal backer for tiles on shower walls and bathroom floors, a shower pan area that is prone to constant moisture and that will eventually get under tiles when grout fails needs special attention. I would ask your contractors what they are doing to guard against this.

I would also pay a lot of attention to the slope of the floor in the areas that will get wet, including the sloping of the floor under the liner if you use a liner instead of a pre-formed pan. This floor should be pre-sloped before the liner is installed, so that any water that gets through to the liner will also drain towards the weep holes that come with conventional drains.

However, what you are describing sounds like it might be something different in that there will be no shower curb. Will the shower water drain into a drain more central to the bathroom? If so, consider carefully.

Posted by: renomandru at October 3, 2009 1:28 PM in response to Shower Advice Needed Urgently

My roof did not have as much height as yours, so I decided to insulate without venting, since there would have been minimal space for air to flow above the insulation.

I also had Federated come to check out my house but came to believe that they put in the vents in part to give themselves a big hole to work with when pumping in the insulation. Think twice about allowing them to cut big holes that could a source of future roof leaks.

I decided to go with Brooklyn Insulation, who works primarily with cellulose. They were excellent, fast, and less expensive. http://www.brooklyninsulation.com/

By the way, it appears that cellulose can handle crawl space moisture much better than fiberglass, which helped convince me that the venting was not necessary.

I would still like to get a "whole house" fan to vent hot air from the house through the crawl space, but that is a future project.

Posted by: renomandru at August 25, 2009 11:56 AM in response to Attic Insulation & Venting

How's it coming? Purdy makes nice brushes.

We used what the call the "estate emulsion" for the walls, which is basically very flat. This one has all the clay. We used the "water based eggshell" for the woodwork. Contemplating an oil-based paint for the doors themselves, but haven't gotten to them yet.

Posted by: renomandru at August 6, 2009 11:28 PM in response to Paint Prep: Old Paint Peels Off?

You can definitely get premixed mortar at HD or Lowes. About 6 dollars a bag, and the sand in it is finer than what you would normally get if you mix it yourself and therefore the mortar mix is easier to use. I would personally try to apply the new mortar to the old rough opening without the tin ducts in the way (1842 described what they are perfectly). Also, use bricks to fill in the bulk of the opening, not just the mortar. For standard mortar, you will have about 15-20 minutes to use it, so masterbuilder is right, mix smallish batches. And don't worry about compatibility with the existing bricks and mortar. Just make sure it is clean before you add the new mortar. Misting the existing mortar and breaks will help the new mortar dry out too quickly, which can be important.

A small trowel and a hammer to break up bricks and the pan masterbuilder described (you can use an empty bucket, too) should be enough. It is not difficult work if it doesn't have to look good.

Good luck!

Posted by: renomandru at August 6, 2009 11:21 PM in response to Brick Wall Restoration

Namahs,

With the sewer pipes exposed, now would be the time to consider replacement if they are original pipes. Even if the look solid on the outside, cast iron pipes (I assume that is what you have based on age) corrode from the inside over time. The walls of old pipes can be quite thin, so that they will not survive even an attempt to cut them.

Most plumbers will do this, although there are companies like Main Man and others that specialize in sewer and water main work.

If you can afford it (rough guess 1500-2000 if they don't have to do any excavating and concrete work, then I think it is worth the peace of mind. Perhaps you can get an agreement to get a credit for the video inspection if the plumber does the replacement work. I did not bother with the inspection and just replaced.

Posted by: renomandru at August 6, 2009 11:09 PM in response to Sewer Line Replacement

Hi Oxygen,

I believe Steve is correct in that latex paint was put directly on top of oil. Happens all the time, but the bond is poor, as you discovered.

The doors and frames will need an oil-base primer, after which you can apply a finish coat (likely two) of latex or oil. If latex, you will want an eggshell or semi-gloss on woodwork. Some manufacturers have variants on that theme. Sanding need only be light, just to roughen up the surface a bit.

Although oil-base primers are more difficult to clean up after and are fumier (VOC's), they provide superior stain hiding and bonding performance over latex-based primers, which should only be used on new drywall or knot-free wood. I have had excellent luck with the high-hide version of Bins (avoid Kilz). Available at HD.

If you are doing this yourself, get the right brushes for the right paint.

Posted by: renomandru at August 5, 2009 6:13 PM in response to Paint Prep: Old Paint Peels Off?

BHS,

Only free remnants in the sample pots, mind you! I think I have Dimity and Pointing in pots. If interested, post your contact info.

Posted by: renomandru at August 5, 2009 6:00 PM in response to Paint Scheme Ideas w/Molding?

If you can afford to splurge a little bit, check out Farrow and Ball paints. They have two retail stores in Manhattan and sell only historical colors. Their most basic flat wall paint is made with clay and has a ton of pigments.

The names like "Dead Salmon" just kill me. They also sell little sample pots, as some Benjamin Moore dealers also do. We had a tough time deciding and ended up with 20+ little pots. If you find some Farrow and Ball paints you like, we might even have what you want. Free.

Good luck.

Posted by: renomandru at August 4, 2009 10:51 PM in response to Paint Scheme Ideas w/Molding?

Hi,

You are about where we were 6 months ago. A few thoughts. Benjamin Moore and others have on-line tools to help you visualize different combinations, but none of the options will be as elaborate as you have. A bit of caution. With so much detail, you may be tempted to go crazy with accent colors. Resist the impulse. Let the detail speak for itself in understated ways. The architectural detail of the recessed panels will catch light in different ways and call attention to itself all by itself.

With a 9' ceiling, go for a bright, flat ceiling paint, to give a much height effect as possible. After that, use only two colors. And you want contrast, but not necessarily too much. You would be amazed about how closely related colors can still provide ample contrast.

Your decision may boil down to light trim/darker walls or light walls, darker trim. Unless your rooms are grand and absolutely flooded with light, I would go with light walls and perhaps even lighter trim. Darker walls with bold colors can be overwhelming,difficult to match with furniture, artwork, those colorful oriental rugs, and plain claustrophobia-inducing.

Resist to the temptation to paint picture moulding and other panel moulding their own color. They get the color of the adjacent panel/wall. Remember, you want tasteful, understated elegance, not a Gingerbread house.

Posted by: renomandru at August 3, 2009 7:10 PM in response to Paint Scheme Ideas w/Molding?

They started 4xs a week thing on my Sunset Park block a year ago, but I figured it had to do with trying to keep non-resident cars from camping out here, which commuters do since I live near the 36th St. Express stop.

I think it tends to favor residents, so I don't mind and am usually able to work time things so I only move the car twise a week (unless HD calls).

I am disgusted by the use of the street as communal litter box, although it is the passerbys and that do the littering, so maybe the frequent cleaning is still necessary. What's with that? I know I wasn't raised that way.

Posted by: renomandru at July 29, 2009 11:31 PM in response to Sunset Park Alt Side Parking

I wouldn't bet on no asbestos inside. I had an ancient boiler abated, took a sledge hammer to it, and found what I believe to be asbestos inside the walls. Fortunately, it stayed wet during the demo and I was able to dispose of it safely.

If it was constructed in cast iron sections the most were, it will come apart easily enough with a sledge. Just protect yourself from the shrapnel with sturdy jeans, eyewear. A sawzall will come in handy for the pipes connecting to it.

Many will gladly take the metal of your hand. Check craig's list if you don't have the means of carting it off yourself.

It cost me about $0 to get rid of a 2000 lb monster.

Posted by: renomandru at July 21, 2009 11:04 PM in response to Removing Old Boiler?

I can recommend a very talented German handyman who did work on my house and have referred him on to three others. He can do just about anything and is a real bargain in NYC. He does not market himself and goes strictly by word of mouth. Send your contact information if you would like more to andru3 at gmail.com.

Posted by: renomandru at July 8, 2009 6:06 PM in response to Handyman required

I second WCK. Paul is honest and fair, and his guys do good work. If you want a lot of hand-holding and a fancy front-office and don't mind paying for it, I'm sure some of the others will take it. If you want no-nonsense, competent work at a fair price, these guys are good.

I believe my house took him more time than he estimated, but he never once complained and the cost of changes were fair, too.

Paul is kind of old school. I think he prefers a simple contract followed by verbal communications and a handshake over lots of paperwork. I have come to really respect him over the work he did on my gut reno over the past 14 months.

Posted by: renomandru at June 22, 2009 7:16 PM in response to Pro electrician for- major job

Give Paul from WCK Electric a call. His guys do good work and he will give you a fair price.

He came recommended by others on Brownstoner and his team did a good job for me. And his price was competitive.

Posted by: renomandru at June 9, 2009 1:43 PM in response to Need New Breaker Box and Service

I second dental picks. But first use liquid, paste-type paint remover to soften it up first. Try a green scrubber first while wet(like those used for pots and pans), not steel wool. Steel wool can discolor the wood.

Then sand lightly. 120 to start is good.

Posted by: renomandru at May 28, 2009 7:05 PM in response to Best way to finish???

Dave's price is a good estimate. I found materials for an a powder-coated, aluminum deck with grating to allow light through, similar dimensions, for around 10-11K. Iron would be similar. Labor to instal including footings, figure another 5K. Architect, expediter, another 5-8K. Budget 25-30K.

Posted by: renomandru at May 18, 2009 5:13 PM in response to Cost For a New Deck

I do not believe that code requires steel. However, wood structures have to be 3' from each property line, which makes a wood deck awfully narrow for a typical townhouse. And it does have to be filed.

Posted by: renomandru at May 10, 2009 11:23 PM in response to Decks and the DOB?

Zinsser High Hide Cover-Stain® Oil Base Primer

I found this did a much better job than the Zinsser BIN shellac-based primer at avoiding bleed-through from whatever paint/stain was on there before.

Also, stay away from KILZ. Inferior, in my opinion.

Posted by: renomandru at April 29, 2009 10:56 PM in response to Tin Ceiling Restoration

I scraped and chipped all the loose paint I could get off on three bedrooms, but it was a major pain. It probably took me at least 3 days per room to prep. Once it was done, only about half of the paint was gone. The rest of it still had a good bond. After priming with the best oil-based primer I could find, and painting with flat latex ceiling paint with deep nap rollers, the results look good.

By the time I got to the bathroom, however, which was the worst, I just ripped off and replaced the tin ceiling with identical stock still available.

I'm not sure there are any easy answers. I probably should have given PeelAway a better chance at success, but found that it did not penetrate the paint well and just made me smear the paint around.

You also can't apply a lot of force on the tin ceiling without denting it.

I check back to see if others had a better solution than mine.

Posted by: renomandru at April 28, 2009 4:19 PM in response to Tin Ceiling Restoration

Midas on 4th Ave (around 27th Street) is solid. Rich, the manager/owner is honest and his guys are good. For brakes and exhaust systems, you can trust them.

Posted by: renomandru at April 27, 2009 10:44 AM in response to recommend a car mechanic please.

I used Tigerfoam for the cavities between brick and interior walls. Used 1 1/2 and 2" hole saw every few feet and bought plastic tubes from HD to fit on the nozzle ends. You have to patch the holes afterwards. It is a bit messy, but it worked pretty well and I'm glad I did it myself.

The company is based in NJ. I picked the canisters pairs up myself to save the transport cost. They were also easy to do business with.

Check it out.

http://www.tigerfoam.com/index.php

Posted by: renomandru at April 21, 2009 10:33 PM in response to Foam insulation systems

I agonized over the same decision for a while, and contemplated the costs of having somebody do it professionally, and just did it myself.

I would assume the tiles contain asbestos. This type did well into the 70's and perhaps even beyond. However, it is not considered "friable" asbestos, so the risk is minimal.

You will inevitably break these tiles into shards trying to remove them, so keeping them wet will help keep down the minimal amounts of asbestos that get released into the air when they break. I experimented with various scrapers and stiff putty knives. If the adhesive is holding very well, this could be quite a chore. I might experiment with heat to soften up the the adhesive. (Somebody is going to blast me for that).

Regarding the adhesive, you can find good, even non-toxic solvents that will soften it up and allow you to mop it up. Let me know if you need a name. Have got some at home.

Posted by: renomandru at April 21, 2009 3:24 PM in response to Asbestos and Linoleum Flooring

I bought a house at auction at 27 but was able to "break into" into it through an unlocked door before the auction to see it prior to bidding. This was in the aftermath of the last major RE bust in the days of the Resolution Trust Corporation.

If you know the place was habitable (not a derelict shell), are not relying on conventional financing, know you can handle a worst-case scenario both financially and renovation experience-wise, and know the market, I think it is worth considering, even if you do not have access to in property.

The "pros" do it all the time.

But this is not a gamble worth taking if you don't know what you are doing. Many first-time buyers in the RTC auction days got in way over their heads, buying properties off of Polaroids, not realizing that the interior had been gutted (no heating system, no stairs, no bathrooms....).

Do as much research on the property as you can and be careful. If you take part in the auction, set a limit first and don't let emotion carry you away. Better to go back home with your earnest money intact than to lose it because you can't get the financing together or have to walk away because you realize it was a mistake.

Posted by: renomandru at April 9, 2009 9:53 PM in response to Housing Auction

This is not standard plumbing work. Replacing a water main requires jackhammers, high pressure equipment to blow a path for the new main, and cement work to patch the holes they will have to create.

I also had a good experience with Main Man. I paid 2500 + 250 to replace the valve at the main. Water main was on my side of the street. It took a while for them to get back to pave the hole in the street, but overall the responsiveness, coordination and service was very good.

Posted by: renomandru at April 6, 2009 2:52 PM in response to Replace street supply water pipe

I did exactly that. 8x12' room with a 4x24 belt sander bought used from a woman who bought it used to sand her kitchen floor. And I used two different random orbital sanders (one with a point to get into the corners) that I had for other projects anyways. Cheap ones, and they have held up fine.

I had some really worn boards that I did not trust the brute machines to finesse the floor, anyway.

Also, a drum sander in a tight space is like using a toilet brush in your mouth. No room to maneuver. Sorry about the analogy.

I am pleased with the results. If you have a feel for wood and when to step up to a finer grit, you should be fine. I did use the hand-held orbital sander with 120 grit for the whole floor to finish it off.

I just couldn't justify the hassle and expense of renting the professional equipment, which I have used for larger surfaces.

Posted by: renomandru at March 28, 2009 9:46 AM in response to Sanding floor in small room

Master Plumber, why the Basement or Cellar question (besides obvious legal use differences?

Bobjohn, I assume you are either talking about an existing earth floor or a slab you will remove. I am planning to do exactly the same thing. Assuming your foundation goes down far enough to avoid underpinnings, you are talking about removing going down 11-12 inches to do it right and keep the ceiling height the same.

Vapor barrier optional, depending on dampness of the soil and depth relative to grade, then 3-4" gravel, then foam board insulation (guessing 2"), then 3-4' of slab, in which you imbed the aluminum PEX for radiant heat.

The finished floor is your choice once you have confidence that dampness will not be a problem. I think most engineered wood flooring works well with radiant heat, but will likely use tile myself.

There was a previous post to estimate the cost of excavation and slab work. I found it helpful.

Posted by: renomandru at March 27, 2009 1:14 PM in response to finished basement floor

Price seems reasonable, but given the fact that it is on top of a roof, the structural portion may not need to be as beefy as a traditional deck. Much of the cost is in fabricating the spiral staircase.

You are benefitting from much lower steel prices than a year ago.

For wood decking, I believe you have to be 3' from adjoining property, which gives metal a distinct advantage (not nearly as flammable).

We are going with aluminum framing and aluminum grating (check out Ohio Gratings or http://www.mcnichols.com). No rust, and water goes through the grating. I think metal can be quite attractive and the maintenance factor should not be overlooked.

Posted by: renomandru at March 26, 2009 2:38 PM in response to Cost for a 10X12 metal deck with

You probably had a survey done when you bought the place. I have a similar issue with my backyard and to my dismay found that the worst fence is clearly shown on my side of the property line. The little string of x's is the fence.

Now if I can convince him that it was a shared fence that is now simply falling into my property......

Posted by: renomandru at March 18, 2009 6:44 PM in response to Is this my fence???

Bobjohn,

You've gotten good advice from thecomputerguy and firealarmguy. I do question the need for conduit for low-voltage cabling in the basement. I do not believe that is necessary. And if you can get a snake through the disconnected gas pipe, I would go for it. I suspect, however, that you will have some 90 degree angles along the way that would make it near impossible to snake.

Also, running Cat5, 5e, or 6 alongside power used to be taboo, but BICSI changed its strict stance on installation standards years ago. While NYC electrical code may not allow sharing of conduit, I suspect it would work technically as long as the current through the adjacent power cables is not too great.

Lastly, don't discount the use of WLAN AP's/repeaters to get the job done if you can't get the cable up and down without ripping open walls. Performance should be more than acceptable.

Posted by: renomandru at March 16, 2009 4:13 PM in response to running network cable in wall

Vanburenproud,

I have to say I have enjoyed and generally respect your balanced input over the past couple of years, but I think challenging the OP to justify removing a tree borders on self-righteousness and meddling. It is all too easy to talk disapprovingly of "killing" a tree when it is somebody else's. And I'm sorry, the word "killing", while technically accurate, is provocative in this context.

If the OP is fair game, let's put this into context, shall we?

Pious environmental admonitions, here we go. Do we all research the source and means of "killing" of the wood in our furniture, flooring, plywood, framing, etc? No contributors to South American deforestation there, right folks? Do we all use public transportation even when it is inconvenient? Those of us who own cars, did we resist the tempation to upgrade to that more powerful engine? Do we recycle everything we possibly can? Do we all use smart power strips and LED or at least CFL-based lights? Do we religiously power down all unused appliances? Ever set the heat to more than 68% F? All Energy Star-rated appliances, right? We buy our groceries in bulk wherever possible, avoiding unnecessary packaging, right? We return our plastic bags to the grocery stores to force them to recycle or issue recylable paper. We lobby NYC to authorize the recycling of more types of plastic. We all switched to "green" providers of electricity years ago of course happily paying the premium. We don't ditch printers and monitors and TV's after 5 years of productive use but are proud to extend their life to 10+ years. We recycle all of our toner cartridges, right? We actively ride share. We use only the water we actually need. We don't buy bottled water because NYC water is just fine, thank you. And we buy green toilet paper even if it sucks and it breaks at the most inopportune time.

If you can say yes to all the above, you are probably from Europe or have been picked on all of your life for your commitment to the cause.

I'm sorry, but it is just so fashionable to defend a poor tree on this forum, but practicing real environmentalism is an afterthought for most, I'm convinced. Less hypocrisy and more intellectual honesty folks. CO2 reduction, indeed.

Posted by: renomandru at March 10, 2009 6:33 PM in response to tree removal in bklyn

Putnamdenizen, I think CMU's word "kill" justifies a certain defensiveness. It is a loaded word, to say the least. Not particularly "polite" either, I would say.

I would have ignored the slightly provocative challenge, and have no axe to grind with CMU, but I, too, find the rush to judgement by some of our community unfortunate.

Do we have to submit an environmental impact statement for public scrutiny every time we ask for a contractor recommendation? Steel fabricator you say, why not use bamboo, aluminum, fiberglass? Oil-based paints or floor finish, oh horrors, think of the VOC's. Day laborers, think of the exploitation. And the displaced American workers. Let's not forget that it is our obligation to let everyone else project their own shortcomings and environmental shortcomings on our modest little projects.

I suspect most of us would be exposed as hypocritical. Hiding behind our relative anonymity.

I'm with you on this one, brooklynjennie.

Posted by: renomandru at March 10, 2009 3:27 PM in response to tree removal in bklyn

I've got a bunch, but they are 110-year old clay bricks. Not sure that is what you want. I will check back to see if you are interested. Would have to pick them up in Sunset Park, though.

Posted by: renomandru at March 9, 2009 11:50 PM in response to need bricks

I had a good experience with Samudaworth Tree Service. I liked going with a seemed to be a smaller company than the usual suspects in Brooklyn. They returned my calls promptly, were on-time, and the fee to remove two decent sized trees, one tree limb, and a large shrub was reasonable.

They were fast and cleaned up well. A positive experience all in all. In looking up their contact information, I found their phone numbers in a Craig's list listing.

(917) 902 2165
(718) 619 2430

Posted by: renomandru at March 9, 2009 11:47 PM in response to tree removal in bklyn

Hmmmm, I think this is possible if all of your wiring comes together in the basement at the transformer, and maybe even if it doesn't. I am guardedly optimistic that you can do this with the wiring you have, but you need to understand the basic circuit mechanics you are trying to duplicate. Does the voltage supplied by the existing transformer match what your new bell needs, by the way? Do you have a voltmeter by chance? Did each of the original bells ring differently depending on which "push" rang them? I really think you are missing something simple here.

I would would stick with it until you figure it out and not give into getting an electrician.

If I weren't going away for the weekend, I would swing by. Two DYI'ers are better than I.

Posted by: renomandru at March 5, 2009 12:00 AM in response to 2-station door bell

Seems like a relatively straight-forward task. Pick the doorbell you want, pick the buttons you want, and just wire them to the transformer so that either button will create a complete circuit(not in series as tried, but in parallel, similar to a 3-way light switch). The first drawing found at this link should work.

http://www.bobvila.com/BBS/Two_doorbells_on_one_transformer-Electrical-1-F6383.html

Posted by: renomandru at March 4, 2009 6:35 PM in response to 2-station door bell

Smoky, this helps.

I guess the key is to define the street grade. And either an architect or PE can do this in the permit application. But it is important to know that the DOB will not come out and do this, so I have some influence over those providing the certification and can jointly strategize.

Thanks!

Posted by: renomandru at March 3, 2009 5:17 PM in response to Basement Quandry

Thanks, Vinca. I had see your useful posts with these links before.

I was just hoping to hear what the best tactical approach is. I do have an architect and a structural engineer lined up, but I think this is probably a very gray area. So far I have not gotten any good answers from them on how best to proceed. I was hoping to hear some strategies from somebody who knows how to work this delicate issue.

Posted by: renomandru at March 3, 2009 2:55 PM in response to Basement Quandry

I once had a racoon mama and litter in my attic. I place a boom box about 5 feet away with ample volume, and they were gone within a day.

If this proves to be impractical because of overly sensitive neighbors, I would wait for a nice, warm day when any self-respecting squirrel is out foraging and block their return. Saturday is supposed to be warm but rainy.

The Ridgid SeeSnake (seriously) might be the perfect tool to see if tykes got left behind while the grownups are out.

Posted by: renomandru at March 2, 2009 8:01 PM in response to squirrels in the ceiling

Check out this recent posting.

I found it helpful.

http://www.brownstoner.com/forum/archives/2009/01/estimates_for_c.php#comments

Posted by: renomandru at February 27, 2009 12:51 PM in response to Finished basement: cost/ideas?

I know an excellent handyman for this work. He tiled our bathroom very nicely and has done a few hundred bathrooms back in Germany. Spoke with him last week and he sounded pretty busy, but he is fast, good, and priced fairly. Drop me a line and I will get you in contact with him.

andru3@gmail.com

Posted by: renomandru at February 23, 2009 1:50 PM in response to Looking for help in laying tile

You will want a grinder used to sharpen fine tools that works at lower speeds. The key may be keeping the metal wet as you grind.

I found a little metal shop that works exclusively with stainless steel. They repaired perfectly(grinding and spot-welding) a broken stainless steel handle on my GE Monogram fridge for $10. The replacement handle would have cost around $400.

As my Chinese was poor, I had to use my hands to describe to the worker in the shop what I wanted. The owner, who showed up later, speaks English.

If you have a car, the shop is close to 3rd Ave on 38th St. right by Costco. It's worth a try. I just love these little metal and marble shops in this area that still think that $10 is a fair price for a simple job.

Posted by: renomandru at February 21, 2009 9:26 AM in response to Where to get a sink reshaped?

You'll need an Ethernet switch (many home office routers such as those with integrated WLAN AP functionality have multiple integrated switched Ethernet ports) as eman1234 says. However, they are quite inexpensive. The closest thing you can do to splitting with 4-pair Cat. 5/5e/6 wiring is to terminate two pairs on one jack and two pairs on another jack RJ-45 for Ethernet or RJ-11/12 for standard telephone connections although the former will work for telephones, too.) It does not meet EIA/TIA specs, but will work fine for the distances you are talking about. The standard is based on a max of 90 meters plus 10 meters of patch cords per connection, so you will be fine if you decide to cheat and run two connections within one cable.

However, if you do not have enough pairs or cables where you need them, there is no problem in using an Ethernet Switch as an active repeater. This is how large corporate networks are built.

In terms of terminating the cables you have, if you are not easily intimidated, you can do this yourself. Hubbel, Leviton, and many others make face-plates with snap in RJ-45 connectors on the back that have color-coded insulation displacement connections that require no tools except something to cut off the outside cable insulation and excess wire. A small wire cutter and screwdriver to mount the faceplate may be all you need.

10 years ago I would have swung by and done all of this for you in about an hour, but have gotten too busy with my own renovations. But drop me a line and perhaps I can give you some tips.

andru3@hotmail.com

Posted by: renomandru at February 17, 2009 6:29 PM in response to cat 5 connections

You're getting a lot of good advice here. We just spent about 80 hours to strip 70 linear feet of 100+ year old woodwork in on room, and then turned around and repainted it.

Why? Because the many layers of underlying paint, including cheap latex, would have been a bad base for new paint.

We used oil primer and a light-colored paint from Farrow and Ball for the woodwork and slightly darker paint for the walls and love the look. Very elegant.

Varnished wood is highly overrated, IMO, and replacing old molding with new stock close with to achieve a look similar to what you have will be dangerous to your walls and expensive.

If you have time on your hands, limited funds and be trusted to work with sharp profile scrapers and a tool like the the Silent Paint Remover (infrared), you can do this yourself. With any luck, you will find varnish as the first layer, and your paint, all 20 layers, will come off in one sheet.

Posted by: renomandru at February 17, 2009 2:54 PM in response to Restore or Replace?

Molly,

The duct for fresh air to the furnace/boiler is the same as the duct to the room. Master Plumber explained it well.

But I am as frustrated as you. Getting a straight answer is obviously not easy, even from the pros posting here, and I am confronted with a similar situation.

The answer is complex depending on the use of your basement space, whether or not your make-up or combustion air is coming exclusively from the outside or perhaps also partially from the surrounding basement space, how air-tight your basement is, the BTU ratings of your equipment, and even potentially the exhaust duct sizes you currently have. I am afraid that the NYC Fuel Code, which seems to govern this, at least for natural gas-fired equipment, is not consistnent or clear in this regard.

I did not find 144 sq. inches anywhere, but I would conclude that 1 square inch per 3000 BTU (remember to reduce available air for elbows, louvres should cover you, even if the aggregate area of the existing "duct connectors" exceeds that. NYC is just trying to cover its ass. Get the ratings of your equipment and do the math. I need to do the same tonight.

Here is the text and link, including the rules for the multple configurations, for what I found:

http://www.ci.nyc.ny.us/html/dob/downloads/pdf/fuel_code.pdf

304.6.2 One-permanent-opening method. One permanent opening, commencing within 12 inches (305 mm) of the top of the enclosure, shall be provided. The equipment shall have clearances of at least 1 inch (25 mm) from the sides and back and 6 inches (152 mm) from the front of the appliance. The opening shall directly communicate with the outdoors or through a vertical or horizontal duct to the outdoors or spaces that freely communicate with the outdoors [see Figure 304.6.2] and shall have a minimum free area of 1 square inch per 3,000 Btu/h (734 mm²/kW) of the total input rating of all equipment located in the enclosure, and not less than the sum of the areas of all vent connectors in the space.

Posted by: renomandru at February 12, 2009 6:44 PM in response to Dimensions of fresh-air vent

I'm with eman1234. 100 Amps is a lot and you don't add all of your circuit breaker ratings and compare it to your main breaker rating to see if you have capacity.

It is the maximum draw of your appliances, light fixtures, etc., that determine what your service needs to be. There are on-line calculators/estimators that may give you an idea of how you stand. Unless you have an electric range, central A/C, an electric dryer, and a bunch of other equipment running in parallel, a couple of fridges, you are probably not even close to 100 Amp.

Posted by: renomandru at February 10, 2009 11:10 PM in response to Electrical Conundrum

If you are asking the question, you may not have the experience or "wood sense" to do this correctly. However, you don't have to be a pro to do this well. As long as it is not latex, and it should not be on the floor, a drum sander is the way to go, starting with 30x to get the paint off and moving up to finer grit in stages.

You can really mess up your floor quickly, however, by going against the grain, leaving the drum on the floor while stationary instead of feathering when you stop, using too coarse a grit at the wrong time, not removing enough dust before you finish, etc. Plus you will need edgers and then need to refinish, which is also an art.

With good common sense, reading up on technique, and picking the brain of somebody who has done it before, you can do it. If these are rough planks, I would risk it. If the flooring is valuable, find somebody to learn from and tread carefully.

Good luck.

Posted by: renomandru at February 10, 2009 11:01 PM in response to Removing Paint from Wood Floors

SenotorStreet,

This IS about a landmarked street. OP is asking since this is the first time in this situation.

The links seems appropriate.

Posted by: renomandru at February 7, 2009 9:48 AM in response to Is a permit needed to re-roof?

If the floor is coming up....DO IT!! It's something that you defintely don't want to be dealing with in the future, especially if you've just put down a new floor. Figure it into your budget and try to save somewhere else if that's what it takes. A collapsed sewer can cause sewage back-ups, floods and a lot more of a problem if you have to try and replace sections at a time underground. A video inspectin may help, but might not always be able to tell you how thin piping is. It can spot a crack or a hole, but the best way to see is to uncover a section of the piping while you are doing your work and have the piping looked at. An experienced Plumber should be able to tell you weather or not the piping is in need of replacement. After 80+ years underground, it probably is. Good Luck!!

Posted by: Brooklyn Plumber at August 7, 2009 10:41 PM in response to Sewer Line Replacement

I also used Federal Conservation, with fiberglass fill. For an 18 foot wide, typical townhouse, they put in two mushroom vents. One at each end of the roof, with tons of roofing cement to waterproof around the hole they cut out.

In retrospect, I think they overfilled. They filled the attic space FULL up to the underside of flat roof, instead of filling it to just few inches below the joists. Now I'm worried there's no space under for the hot air to migrate to the mushrooms, but the guy did say that the heat would dissipate through the fibers and find it's way out.

Electric fan would probably help, but I didn't have the stomach for putting in another device.

Posted by: vicki_vale at August 25, 2009 7:05 PM in response to Attic Insulation & Venting

Hulu has a show where all they do is DIY bathroom renovations:

http://www.hulu.com/bathroom-renovations

I remember an episode where they mixed concrete for a shower floor. They had a plastic protection layer under the concrete. I think it's the "family bath expansion" series of episodes.

Posted by: bkrules at October 3, 2009 2:48 PM in response to Shower Advice Needed Urgently

There are still many buildings in Manhattan that I work in that require field-fabricated lead pans on all new and replacement shower installations. The truth is that, like anything else, if exposed to enough water, they can wear away over time and leak. But they shouldn't see much water if the tile work is done well and maintained. There are boatloads of 50-plus-year lead pan shower installations still in use all over the city.

The other option is to use a pvc or vinyl liner, which is much easier to work with but hasn't got the history that lead does.

Using either material, the installation will require riding up a minimum of 12" on the shower walls. That means you'll haver to make inside corners with your lining.
Those are the weakest points of the pan. If you're going to DIY it, make sure you have this part figured out before you begin. Many career plumbers can't get this right. It can be very difficult.

Make sure you're using a drain assembly compatible with the installation. It should have a clamping ring with channels to deal with any water that might get through the tile to reach the drain.

Posted by: Master Plvmber at October 3, 2009 2:49 PM in response to Shower Advice Needed Urgently

also remember that when you cast the floor over the shower liner, you have to pitch the floor down to the drain in all locations..or you will have puddles everywhere, with the accompanying problems from standing water

Posted by: eman1234 at October 3, 2009 6:46 PM in response to Shower Advice Needed Urgently

Install a rubber membrane over the subfloor being careful to fold up the corners and fun it up the wall several inches (the wonderboard on the wall will cover the nail heads and the top of the membrane. - keep the wonderboard a quarter of an inch off the floor).

have a professional lay a mud bed over the membrane properly sloped toward the drain.

install the wall wonderboard.

Lat tile in thinset - floor first - then walls.

Posted by: SenatorStreet at October 4, 2009 9:12 AM in response to Shower Advice Needed Urgently

There's a new technology out that uses a material that is cut to fit and then the joints are taped similar to wallboard joints. It works so well that you could run the water right on top of it without tile!!!

It's an orange color material and you can find it on the This Old House website somewhere. It's also been featured on Ask this Old House.

Otherwise get a prefab copper or rubber liner installed PROFESSIONALLY.

Posted by: daveinbedstuy at October 5, 2009 8:13 AM in response to Shower Advice Needed Urgently

I bought one of those rather expensive shower bases recently Home Depot sells that are meant to be tiled over. It was made of a plastic membrane and was much lighter than I'd expected. It hasn't leaked so far . . . time will tell.

Posted by: IronBalls at October 6, 2009 4:03 PM in response to Shower Advice Needed Urgently

I bought one of those rather expensive shower bases recently Home Depot sells that are meant to be tiled over. It was made of a plastic membrane and was much lighter than I'd expected. It hasn't leaked so far . . . time will tell.

Posted by: IronBalls at October 6, 2009 4:03 PM in response to Shower Advice Needed Urgently

Just curious, you guys see a noticeable difference in heat bills as a result? Does it also slow heat absorption in summer or is that just wishful thinking on my part??

Posted by: Johnny at October 12, 2009 12:40 PM in response to Blown In Insulation