pwhite's Profile

Name:
Peter White
In Brooklyn Since:
1972
On Brownstoner Since:
2007
Location:
Brooklyn
Neighborhood:
Windsor Terrace
Abode:
House
Profession:
Sex:
Male
Age:
36
Website:

Author's Posts

May 10, 2008

Replacing Below Ground Wet Return Sections

I have sections of the wet return from my boiler that are below grade and have corroded. I am having them replaced and I have a few questions.

1) I have excavated the area in preparation for the plumber and plan on repairing the floor once the plumber is done. The existing pipe was buried in dirt and covered in a few inches of concrete. Now that I have a chance to do the job right, I am wondering what the best way of covering the new pipe will be. Should it be wrapped in some way before covering it to avoid corrosion? Should I cover it with dirt or gravel or a combination of both prior to laying the concrete over it? Any tips on doing this job right would be appreciated.

2) There is currently no way to flush the returns. Should I ask the plumber to install some sort of flush valve before it goes underground? Again, I just want to make sure that the job is done right so I don't have to revisit it.

Thanks for your help...

April 13, 2008

Boiler Glass Water Gauge Slow to React.

When I either add or remove water to my Burnham boiler, the glass water level gauge is very slow to show the actual change in the water level of the boiler. I have to come back a half hour later to see what the results are. I assume that the connection from the gauge to the boiler tank is clogged. If this is the case, are there any thoughts on how to unclog it or should I call in the experts to have a look.

Thanks for your help...

April 9, 2008

Time to replace my water heater?

I currently have a 40 Gallon Sears Kenmore water heater that was manufactured in 1996. It still works, but I am wondering if it's time to say goodbye. By the way, this should support 4 people with 2 bathrooms. What are your thoughts as to whether I should keep the old one going until it goes or preemptively replace it beforehand? In my basement, some water on the floor wouldn't spell the end of the world as the floor in the area is mostly dirt and the basement is typically pretty dry.

Given that I am not in an emergency situation, I figured it was time to look at my options. I'll throw out the possibility of tankless due to the venting requirements. I guess that leaves a traditional water heater of some sort or an indirect water heater in conjunction with my Burnham gas boiler. What is involved with converting my boiler to heat my hot water? If I decide to go the traditional water heater route, I wouldn't mind spending a little bit more for a more efficient (maybe smaller high recovery?) unit which will save some $ and have a smaller environmental footprint. I'm concerned about the environmental impact more than the cost, but cost is obviously a factor as well.

Thanks for any input.

January 8, 2008

Sewer Cleanout Grate Cover

Can anyone suggest an appropriate grate cover for the two recessed sewer cleanout "ditches" that are in the picture? One is approximately 15" x 11" and the other is approximately 16" x 11".

Thanks in advance for your help...

January 7, 2008

Sewer Caps

I have an issue in my basement where I smell a faint odor of sewage. I found it to be coming from my sewer caps. The caps are so rusted that the they can't be threaded back on. I was told to get some 4" lead caps and bang them into place. My question is whether or not this is a good idea and if so, where do I get them and what are they called?

Additionally, I was told to replace the cover of the whole area (it's sunk into the ground about 12 inches with a lip to hold the cover) with something other than the piece of plywood that is there currently with something sturdier like a metal hatch of sorts. Any ideas of what should be used for this and where to go get it?

Thanks for your help.

December 17, 2007

Historical Brooklyn Pictures?

I'm looking for historical pictures of Windsor Terrace similar to those on this site: http://brooklynpix.com

Does anyone know of any other sources of Historical Pictures of Brooklyn?

Thanks...

December 11, 2007

Radiator Air Valve Question

I have a one pipe steam heat system in a 2 story house. The upstairs is consistently about 6 degrees colder. Currently, I have Maid-o-Mist #4 air valves on the first floor and Maid-O-Mist #5 valves on the second floor. Would I benefit from installing #6, C or D valves on the second floor? Should I consider TRV's for the colder areas? Any other ideas?

I should mention that the basement mains are insulated and properly vented.

Thanks in advance...

November 26, 2007

Recycling Fluorescent Light Bulbs?

Does anyone have any information on where I can recycle fluorescent tubes? I know that I can take them out to the DSNY Special Waste Drop Off Site in Gravesend, but that's a long haul for me. Are there any other options in Brooklyn that anyone is aware of?

August 21, 2007

Thermostatic Radiator Valve

I'm interested to hear opininos from anyone who has experience with Thermostatic Radiator Valves(TRV)for s single pipe steam heat system. Also, where would one go to purchase them, what models do you recommend, and what else would I need to know before purchasing them. Here are a couple of urls that describe them and how to install them.

http://www.homeenergy.org/archive/hem.dis.anl.gov/eehem/96/960509.html

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,1638722,00.html

Thanks...

Author's Comments

Helen Van Rhyn @ Brown Harris Stevens

Posted by: pwhite at November 29, 2007 9:55 PM in response to broker rec

Interesting article, but it was written in 1996 and they speak of potential legislation changing who is liable. Have things changed since this time?

Posted by: pwhite at December 6, 2007 5:35 PM in response to Snow removal

Thanks for the reply. I did insulate and weather stripped the area leading up to the attic hatch. Previously the area in question was about 10 degrees colder so the insulation obviously helped. Also, all of the radiators do get hot.

As for the radiator sizes, I truly hope it doesn't come down to increasing the size of the radiators.

Posted by: pwhite at December 11, 2007 9:08 PM in response to Radiator Air Valve Question

Right. 4 radiators total for living space and 1 small radiator for the hallway/stairway.

I guess I'll try stepping up to a #6 upstairs, but will wit to see if Master Plvmber kicks in his 2 cents.

Thanks for the comments so far...

Posted by: pwhite at December 11, 2007 10:26 PM in response to Radiator Air Valve Question

Gotcha. I'll give that a try before doing anything more drastic.

I appreciate all of the responses...

Posted by: pwhite at December 12, 2007 10:03 AM in response to Radiator Air Valve Question

The "Attic" area is somewhat insulated, but I do realize that at some point I will need to improve on it as the layer of insulation (Blown in) is not quite as thick as I think it should be.

As for the #D Valves, can somebody point me to a local reseller in the Park Slope/Windsor Terrace area?

Thanks...

Posted by: pwhite at December 12, 2007 6:42 PM in response to Radiator Air Valve Question

Try Oasisnet.

http://www.oasisnyc.net/oasismap.htm

Posted by: pwhite at January 7, 2008 3:26 PM in response to Calculating or finding out FAR

The person who told me to do this is a Master Plumber (Not Master Plvmber)and for some reason I guess he wanted to save me some $ so he suggested that I do what I described. Unfortunately, I wasn't home at the time, so I couldn't ask him these questions directly.

After looking at it, he didn't mention that I would need to have it snaked out.

If need be, I'll call him back and ask him, but I figured I would ask here first.

I may opt to have him come back and do the job (Either replace the traps or install the lead caps), but if it is simple, I'll give it a try myself.

Posted by: pwhite at January 7, 2008 4:14 PM in response to Sewer Caps

Thanks. Fortunately, the plugs are actually unscrewed already, so it sounds like I have an easy job. I will give the "fit-all" plugs a try...

Does anyone have any suggestions on a cover to replace the plywood? A picture may help which I will post tomorrow if this is too hard to understand...

Thanks a lot again!

Posted by: pwhite at January 7, 2008 4:32 PM in response to Sewer Caps

I had plywood there and it started to rot from ground moisture I guess. Anyhow, I may try your metal bar idea.

Thanks...

Posted by: pwhite at January 9, 2008 5:24 PM in response to Sewer Cleanout Grate Cover

Responses to Author's Forum Comments

Don't you have to be super rich to use a financial planner? How much do they charge?

Posted by: guest at January 29, 2008 12:56 AM in response to financial planner?

Michael McGill at HavenRich. 718-366-3336. A little bit out of brownstone neighborhood in Ridgewood, but definitely worth it. He has done my taxes and planning for years -- definitely great honest service (less commission issues than planners at brokerages) at a good price.

Posted by: cortnyc at January 29, 2008 3:02 PM in response to financial planner?

"Interview several, at least 3-5. The whole point of personal financial planning is that there must be a good fit between planner and client. Just because a planner is good for someone else on the blog doesn't mean they will be a good fit for you."

Definitely -- I would also add that you should find out before hiring anyone how they earn fees and whether they earn fees from any investment vehicles they may offer you. While this is not uncommon, I prefer to use someone to whom I pay a service-based fee only as it minimizes any conflicts of interest in commission-based fee structures.

Posted by: cortnyc at January 29, 2008 3:04 PM in response to financial planner?

James Kibler at Eldridge Financial Planning.

Posted by: bunkerlabs at January 29, 2008 7:12 PM in response to financial planner?

Financial planners have an incentive to sell you commissioned based products.

Posted by: Ysabelle at January 30, 2008 12:53 PM in response to financial planner?

father is a mason -- you are better off with grey grout because it doesn't show stains. but if you do want to change it you should be able to dye it which is probably easiest option. just be aware that you won't get to white.

Posted by: guest at February 24, 2008 6:41 PM in response to re-grouting?

Try grout colorant or grout paint.

Take a google and look for various products and tips on application. Good luck!

Posted by: guest at February 24, 2008 9:07 PM in response to re-grouting?

I like this opossum better:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/44/138250017_240d914e39.jpg

Posted by: guest at March 11, 2008 3:44 PM in response to We need a removal service or something

HA! Brilliant! I think dssguy 99's most successful response was the "call 311" for help.

Posted by: herbnhoe at March 11, 2008 3:59 PM in response to We need a removal service or something

My pleasure, pwhite. Just know that there is no practical reason to ever turn off that top valve.
Also, as you seem to have the DIY skills to remove the bottom valve's stem, next time just use one of the gauge glass's protector rods to push through and clear that passageway.

Posted by: Master Plvmber at April 13, 2008 8:45 PM in response to Boiler Glass Water Gauge Slow to React.