Bessie2, Thanks. Was it Thorocoat or Thoroseal that you purchased at the HD in Manhattan? I'm looking for Thorocoat.

Posted by: pwhite at November 16, 2009 10:46 AM in response to Thorocoat by the Gallon?

Or maybe an equivalent type paint that comes in gallon sizes?

Posted by: pwhite at November 15, 2009 6:47 PM in response to Thorocoat by the Gallon?

42 Bergen St
Brooklyn, NY 11201-6302
Phone: (718) 875-1362

Posted by: pwhite at November 13, 2009 1:52 PM in response to Vinny's Ironworkers-Need Tel #

Cmu, You can only use a common neutral if the circuits that they are supporting are on opposite phases. This way, the current cancels each other out rather than adding up.

Posted by: pwhite at November 13, 2009 1:47 PM in response to Weird 2-Phase Wiring

I used to live in this building, and I think there are a few sponsor owned apartments left that are rentals. Other than that, I believe you can sublet with board approval for a period of time (e.e. Not indefinitely).

It really was a great building with great neighbors. The doorman and Super are really nice and helpful. I only left because I wanted to leave Park Slope and move into a bigger space.

Posted by: pwhite at November 10, 2009 4:50 PM in response to 209 Lincoln Place

I have a two family and I occupy the entire building. I have two meters, and two bills. No commercial status. I have another friend with the same situation as me and no commercial status. It seems rather odd unless you actually have commercial space.

Posted by: pwhite at October 16, 2009 9:49 AM in response to ConEdison & two meter building

I called 311 a few years ago when I had the same question. I was told that metal paint cans can be RECYCLED as long as the paint is dried out. Also, here's an excerpt of what can be recycled as quoted from the Department of Sanitation page on nyc.gov...

"metal cans (soup, pet food, empty aerosol cans, dried-out paint cans, etc.)"

Put them in clear bags, and put them out with your recycling over the course of time. Don't waste your money on a rubbish removal service.

Posted by: pwhite at August 3, 2009 3:19 PM in response to Getting Rid of Basement Stuff

Mod Squad, who do you use?

Posted by: pwhite at May 21, 2009 8:24 AM in response to How to hire a building inspector

This is a timely post. I am about to demolish my porch, steps, and front yard, and in order to file with the DOB I am told by the expediter that I will need an asbestos report as a prerequisite to filing. I'm told that this will cost anywhere between $350-$450. Does that sound right? I'm thinking its a bit much given that the steps are brick, porch is plywood over wood joists, and the yard sidewalk is concrete. It seems like all thats involved is a 15 minute visual inspection, a couple of pictures, and a two page report. Thanks for any insight. What would you charge for something like this?

Posted by: pwhite at May 20, 2009 8:35 PM in response to How to hire a building inspector

Have it checked out if you are not qualified to do it yourself. It was likely installed using a telescopic light fixture bracket that is not rated for the weight of a fan. They sell brackets that are rated for use with a fan. Better yet, for a truly rock solid installation, it should be fixed directly to wooden supports connected to the ceiling joists. I have a friend who had one fall on her head while it was spinning due to a poor installation. It's not something that you want to play around with.

Posted by: pwhite at May 1, 2009 4:44 PM in response to Fan Safety?

The lot pictured above is on Prospect Avenue near Greenwood Avenue. They have been working on the foundation recently, so I don't think this particular project is on hold.

Posted by: pwhite at April 1, 2009 3:57 PM in response to Abandoned Projects Mar Brooklyn Landscape

I recently had them over to look at a job and I told them that since I wasn't told about this $39.95 fee on the phone, I didn't intend to pay it. They proceeded with their inspection anyhow. This is how they attempt to discover "problems" that they then try to scare you into hiring them to fix. It seems to be a scam that people who don't know what they are talking about fall into. Additionally, their quote for the job which in their estimation would have taken them less than 1 day to complete was over $5K. Thats a pretty good payback on less than a days worth of work for 2 guys.

I am looking elsewhere...

Posted by: pwhite at March 28, 2009 9:49 AM in response to Electrical

I never use the search engine on this site . I perform a Google Advanced Aearch. I enter my search terms in the "all these words:" field, and type www.brownstoner.com in the "Search within a site or domain:" field. Works like a charm...

Posted by: pwhite at February 19, 2009 11:30 AM in response to Brownstoner Search..............

A neighbor of mine had a mother and two babies living on his porch overhang in Windsor Terrace. I have personally seen several rummaging through the trash in front of my house.

Posted by: pwhite at November 14, 2008 9:50 AM in response to Raccoons Take Clinton Hill

Since the name "Park Slope" literally means something like the area sloping down from the Park, I am going with Union Street to 15th Street. The Western border is a totally different conversation…

Posted by: pwhite at November 10, 2008 4:52 PM in response to Closing Bell: Where Does Park Slope End?

Be careful. At closing, you probably signed a form telling them where to send your bills. I didn't realize this, but for some silly reason, whoever filled out the form, listed my old address and the bills were sent there. As a result, I got hit with late charges. I would call the Department of Finance, and make sure that they have the correct address. Don't assume that they will just send the bills to your new address...

Posted by: pwhite at September 9, 2008 8:29 PM in response to Brooklyn Water and Sewage

I actually have them in a ceiling fan with four fixtures and once they warm up, the light is adequate to light up a 12 x 12 room. I believe that they are 4 watts each. I know that they have 8 watt bulbs now, but I haven't been able to find them in candelabra bases. Anyhow, god luck...

Posted by: pwhite at August 25, 2008 8:25 AM in response to Comments on dimmable CFLs

Although they are very expensive ($10-$12/bulb), Cold Cathode bulbs(CCFL) can be dimmed reliably. I have tried Litetronics, and TCP CCFL bulbs. I have had very good results dimming the Litetronics bulbs, but not so good results with the TCP. None of them have failed yet, and I have had 8 of them in use for about 1 year.

This guy has a lot to say about them...

http://home.tx.rr.com/gep2/ccathode.html

Posted by: pwhite at August 24, 2008 9:46 PM in response to Comments on dimmable CFLs

We had a very good experience with Shea Moving last August.

http://www.sheamoving.com/

Posted by: pwhite at August 11, 2008 11:42 AM in response to Moving Company recommendations?

11:13... I have lived in Brooklyn my whole life and there have always been mosquitos in the Summer.

Posted by: pwhite at August 7, 2008 9:56 AM in response to screen doors to garden??

http://www.acepartyrental.com/

Posted by: pwhite at July 18, 2008 9:18 AM in response to canopy tent for block party

It returns the wrong address. As a result, my water bill was sent to the wrong address and my account has become delinquent. I know it's not the biggest deal in the world, but would like to get it resolved.

Posted by: pwhite at June 10, 2008 12:10 PM in response to New York City BIS Data Incorrect

Try: http://www.brooklynpix.com/

This person apparantly has a very large archive of historical photos in his house somewhere on Long Island. When I spoke to him on the phone, he was willing to let me come over and look through his photos. If you find something, he has a dark room and can make a copy of any of his pictures from negatives.

Posted by: pwhite at May 28, 2008 10:56 AM in response to historic photos

Just in case anyone wants to know what type of screw head this is, it's called a "Tri-Groove" head. McMaster-Carr does indeed have them.

Posted by: pwhite at May 17, 2008 6:43 PM in response to What type of screw is this?

Thanks for the comments. I don't mind ordering them online. Is there a name for this type of screw?

I'll go down to Greshlers with a picture if I can't find a place to order it from.

Thanks again...

Posted by: pwhite at May 17, 2008 6:08 PM in response to What type of screw is this?

The entire wet return is made of steel, so I would assume thats what he will put back. MOst of the wet return is indeed above ground and in good shape. This section is burried since it is in front of a door and would be a trip hazzard.

Thanks for your help...

Posted by: pwhite at May 11, 2008 9:24 AM in response to Replacing Below Ground Wet Return Sections

I would try an iron worker. I would think that these are custom. Get a few bids as the prices from these guys tend to vary quite a bit and what you are doing is a pretty standard job.

Posted by: pwhite at May 10, 2008 7:35 PM in response to Tree Pit

Good point about not needing to close the top valve. I figured I would shut it off so I could isolate the bottom valve to prove out that it was the one that was clogged.

You know I searched for about 5 mintutes looking for something the right diameter to poke through that valve and it never occurred to me to use the metal rods that were staring me in the face. I guess that's why you are the pro and I'm just a DIY'er.

Thanks again...

Posted by: pwhite at April 13, 2008 10:14 PM in response to Boiler Glass Water Gauge Slow to React.

OP Here... Thanks for this great info. I did this and the water was still not flowing. What I noticed is that when the top valve was in the open position, water flowed into the glass tube and out the opening in the bottom (Yeah, it must have been flooded since I had no indication of where the water level was). However, when the bottom valve was open and the top closed nothing would flow. I assumed that the bottom valve was clogged somehow so I removed the valve stem. I then grabbed a piece of electical wire and jammed it into the valve and broke through some crud that was blocking the flow of water and water is flowing. I just thought I would post a follow-up in case anyone else encounters this same problem.

Thanks again Master Plvmber. Your contribution to this forum is greatly appreciated.

Posted by: pwhite at April 13, 2008 8:18 PM in response to Boiler Glass Water Gauge Slow to React.

Check out Google Sketchup. I haven't tried it yet, but it looks pretty powerful.

http://sketchup.google.com/

Posted by: pwhite at April 13, 2008 11:13 AM in response to floor plan software

There is a Dremel Rotary Tool Attachment that makes the job pretty easy provided your tile spacing isn't too narrow...

Posted by: pwhite at February 24, 2008 9:15 AM in response to re-grouting?

I have been using Gerstein Fisher and Associates for about 10 years and love them.

http://www.gersteinfisher.com

Posted by: pwhite at January 28, 2008 1:35 PM in response to financial planner?

I had plywood there and it started to rot from ground moisture I guess. Anyhow, I may try your metal bar idea.

Thanks...

Posted by: pwhite at January 9, 2008 5:24 PM in response to Sewer Cleanout Grate Cover

Thanks. Fortunately, the plugs are actually unscrewed already, so it sounds like I have an easy job. I will give the "fit-all" plugs a try...

Does anyone have any suggestions on a cover to replace the plywood? A picture may help which I will post tomorrow if this is too hard to understand...

Thanks a lot again!

Posted by: pwhite at January 7, 2008 4:32 PM in response to Sewer Caps

The person who told me to do this is a Master Plumber (Not Master Plvmber)and for some reason I guess he wanted to save me some $ so he suggested that I do what I described. Unfortunately, I wasn't home at the time, so I couldn't ask him these questions directly.

After looking at it, he didn't mention that I would need to have it snaked out.

If need be, I'll call him back and ask him, but I figured I would ask here first.

I may opt to have him come back and do the job (Either replace the traps or install the lead caps), but if it is simple, I'll give it a try myself.

Posted by: pwhite at January 7, 2008 4:14 PM in response to Sewer Caps

Try Oasisnet.

http://www.oasisnyc.net/oasismap.htm

Posted by: pwhite at January 7, 2008 3:26 PM in response to Calculating or finding out FAR

The "Attic" area is somewhat insulated, but I do realize that at some point I will need to improve on it as the layer of insulation (Blown in) is not quite as thick as I think it should be.

As for the #D Valves, can somebody point me to a local reseller in the Park Slope/Windsor Terrace area?

Thanks...

Posted by: pwhite at December 12, 2007 6:42 PM in response to Radiator Air Valve Question

Gotcha. I'll give that a try before doing anything more drastic.

I appreciate all of the responses...

Posted by: pwhite at December 12, 2007 10:03 AM in response to Radiator Air Valve Question

Right. 4 radiators total for living space and 1 small radiator for the hallway/stairway.

I guess I'll try stepping up to a #6 upstairs, but will wit to see if Master Plvmber kicks in his 2 cents.

Thanks for the comments so far...

Posted by: pwhite at December 11, 2007 10:26 PM in response to Radiator Air Valve Question

Thanks for the reply. I did insulate and weather stripped the area leading up to the attic hatch. Previously the area in question was about 10 degrees colder so the insulation obviously helped. Also, all of the radiators do get hot.

As for the radiator sizes, I truly hope it doesn't come down to increasing the size of the radiators.

Posted by: pwhite at December 11, 2007 9:08 PM in response to Radiator Air Valve Question

Interesting article, but it was written in 1996 and they speak of potential legislation changing who is liable. Have things changed since this time?

Posted by: pwhite at December 6, 2007 5:35 PM in response to Snow removal

Helen Van Rhyn @ Brown Harris Stevens

Posted by: pwhite at November 29, 2007 9:55 PM in response to broker rec

Mod Squad, who do you use?

Posted by: pwhite at May 21, 2009 8:24 AM in response to How to hire a building inspector

Richard Perry did our home inspection, and he was great. Incredibly thorough, reasonably priced, took plenty of time to answer my questions (and I tend to grill people), and wrote up a report we're working from on our reno. Can't recommend him highly enough.

Posted by: UnprotectedWrecks at May 21, 2009 12:23 PM in response to How to hire a building inspector

To say who I am after writing that article would be disingenuous. I'm out there with everyone else, so find me and vet me.

Posted by: an inspector at May 21, 2009 7:46 PM in response to How to hire a building inspector

Contact information for Richard Perry, please!

Posted by: longtimefirsttime at June 3, 2009 10:16 AM in response to How to hire a building inspector

I have a building w/ 2 residential tenants & 1 commercial w/ 3 meters. I've temporarily taken over one apt. bill when the place was empty while I did refurbishing but have never run into what you describe.

Posted by: Arkady at October 16, 2009 10:06 AM in response to ConEdison & two meter building

I have 2 fam with 2 meters in my name, because heater and basement are connected to tenant's meter. Just realized...how would I know if I'm setup as a commercial client?

Posted by: cmu at October 16, 2009 10:35 AM in response to ConEdison & two meter building

cmu - The bill states the category.

Posted by: Arkady at October 16, 2009 10:44 AM in response to ConEdison & two meter building

I've ran into the same situation, plus they also asked me for a security deposit of $75.00 (which was returned after I closed the account). I think it's a new thing that they recently started because when we first bought the building I transferred the apartments into my name and ConEd did not charge me a commercial rate. But recently when a tenant moved out they did.

You should probably do what petebklyn suggested and save yourself the headache.

Posted by: nako at October 16, 2009 11:19 AM in response to ConEdison & two meter building

Con Ed's policy is to charge an empty apartment meter at "small non-residential" rate. This is the same rate you pay for common areas (assuming that service is on a separate meter), but less than the commercial rate. For an empty apartment, Con Ed will "offer" to remove the meter, and then have you pay for reinstallation. Also not a good idea when you want to turn on lights while showing the apartment. You can probably transfer the service to your name without problem under the guise of being the new tenant...I've never tried that. Turn your two bills over and compare the actual charges. I think you'll find that the difference overall is minimal, and the whole issue will disappear as soon you have a new tenant.

Posted by: vinca at October 16, 2009 11:45 AM in response to ConEdison & two meter building

Thanks everyone. We're not planning on keeping the additional floor for ourselves and I agree that this problem will go away when the new tennant moves in.

We may just change to one meter and make this go away that way but this just seemed plain wrong to me but I guess not.

Posted by: 10thStreetReno at October 16, 2009 12:45 PM in response to ConEdison & two meter building