pig three's Profile
- pig three
- Brooklyn
- Male
Author's Posts
October 26, 2009
Add an Air Vent? Round Two...
Posted this question yesterday and decided to repost tonight looking for a little more input. My apologies if it is not of interest.
Decided to go ahead and change out old cast iron radiators with cast iron convectors on my one pipe steam system (earlier post "standard vs convector). Have finished six of ten (the back of the house). New supply valves and new air vents. I realize it's not the most ideal heating system, but I have not spent much making the changes and the results have been better than expected. The question I have now is about adding an air vent at the top of a 1.25" supply riser. It supplies two radiators on the second floor. My thought is to have the bulk of the air released there so the air vents on the radiators only have to vent the smaller sections of reduced 1" supply pipe. Good /bad idea? Would it make any difference? In addition to increasing the speed of steam to the radiators, I would like to minimize the sound of the air release as those two radiators are in a bedroom. Additionally, the air vents on the radiators are the correct size for the location of the radiators according to manufacturer suggestion.
Earlier comments:
COMMENTS
Of course it's a good idea. I hope you have a "T" at that bend though. I have something similar. The only problem was a constant wet spot on the ceiling above the escaping steam. I finally busted out the plaster above the vent.
Posted by: modsquad at October 25, 2009 12:06 PM
what a complete waste of money
Posted by: eman1234 at October 25, 2009 10:31 PM
eman1234,
do you say it is a waste of money because there would be no benefit? The cost of the proper domestic steam fitting is roughly $8. Air valve roughly $15. Would take about 1.5 hours to complete the job. Drill and tap would be cheaper and quicker, but I prefer to do it the other way. So, if I obtain the benefit I'm looking for as stated in the OP, the $25 spent would be worth it to me.
Posted by: pig three at October 26, 2009 2:32 PM
October 25, 2009
Add Air Vent?
Decided to go ahead and change out old cast iron radiators with cast iron convectors on my one pipe steam system (earlier post "standard vs convector). Have finished six of ten (the back of the house). New supply valves and new air vents. I realize it's not the most ideal heating system, but I have not spent much making the changes and the results have been better than expected. The question I have now is about adding an air vent at the top of a 1.25" supply riser. It supplies two radiators on the second floor. My thought is to have the bulk of the air released there so the air vents on the radiators only have to vent the smaller sections of reduced 1" supply pipe. Good /bad idea? Would it make any difference? In addition to increasing the speed of steam to the radiators, I would like to minimize the sound of the air release as those two radiators are in a bedroom. Additionally, the air vents on the radiators are the correct size for the location of the radiators according to manufacturer suggestion.
October 13, 2009
Convector vs Standard
Considering changing my standard cast iron radiators out for older cast iron convector radiators. I have a one pipe steam system with two supply lines - one to the front of the house, one to the rear. The convector radiators require a shorter fire time from the boiler to heat up, but also cool faster and call for more heat faster than the standard iron radiators. Will there be enough time between firings for the steam to condensate and drain before meeting new steam (causing the banging and knocking in the pipes)? Is this not even a consideration? Any advise, pros/cons welcome. I'm sure there are other factors related to my system to consider...
August 12, 2009
Iron entry doors
Trying this one again. Offering these iron entry doors for sale. There is also an iron transom. The rough measurements are 4' x 9' . Including the frame adds a few inches. Each door is roughly 2' x 7'. There is also an additional hinged frame that can accommodate glass inside each door frame. Currently there is plexi-glass there. It can be unscrewed and removed or replaced with glass. Entertaining offers. Can post info or email go67racing@mac.com if interested. Thanks.
July 26, 2009
Iron entry doors
Offering these iron entry doors for sale. There is also an iron transom. I will post a photo of it in another form. The rough measurements are 4' x 9' . Including the frame adds a few inches. Each door is roughly 2' x 7'. There is also an additional hinged frame that can accommodate glass inside each door frame. Currently there is plexi-glass there. It can be unscrewed and removed or replaced with glass. Entertaining offers. Can post info or email go67racing@mac.com if interested. Thanks.
June 3, 2009
Cast iron double sink
Selling this cast iron porcelain sink with the original cast iron front support legs. Sink is in decent shape. Only did a quick clean. There are some stains from what looks like paint cans left in the deep basin. I have had good results cleaning other old porcelain sinks and tubs with "bar keepers friend". There is also a small chip in the porcelain in the front left corner. Asking what I paid, $200. OBO also applies, as I need to clear out my shop space. Thanks for looking.
April 13, 2009
Stair rail, newel and spindles
Second post on this offer. Had a buyer. Then not. 60 spindles, hand rail with right return, newel. Mahogany or walnut. Spindles sold as a lot. $225 for everything. Spindles $100. Rail $100. Newel $75. Removed from 1880 row house in Brooklyn. Thanks. More pictures available. Good condition (dusty in picture) Painted.
January 29, 2009
Stair rail, newel and spindles
60 spindles. Right return on the rail. Mahogany or walnut. Removed during renovation. No reasonable offer refused. Post your email and I will contact you. Thanks for your interest.
December 8, 2008
Steam pipe replacement
I have a steam heating system. On the parlor floor and on the floor above there are two vertical steam pipes that are capped near the ceiling and have a steam valve. I want to replace these with radiators. My question is are these used for saving floor space and less heat to the area, or are they essential for proper return to the system?
November 4, 2008
Barack Hussein Obama
I have been told this is how the ballot was printed in Crown Heights at ps 161. There were now middle names where I voted. Anyone else see his middle name on the ballot?
Author's Comments
Hope you do not ride the subway. Do a lead test on the air quality after an express train passes the station without stopping. Probably more lead than in your apt. Ass pest toast too!
Posted by: pig three at November 9, 2009 5:29 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?
If they can axe (sharp, handled tool) through the locked front door, they can axe through a locked roof hatch...
Posted by: pig three at November 9, 2009 5:23 PM in response to Fire Dept Inspection
Too many potential variables to assume you need a bigger chimney or it will cost a mountain of money. May even be fairly simple. What exactly do you want. Open wood burning? Cast iron insert? Do some reasearch off this site. Figure out what you want first and then have a pro tell you if it is possible.
Posted by: pig three at November 6, 2009 8:45 PM in response to Restoring Bricked-in Fireplace?
Thanks Brooklyn Plumber and SteamMan. Seltzers on me anytime!
The supply line and two convectors in question are the farthest from the boiler. I meant speed the steam in the sense of it not being slowed down by air pressure resistance.
Sometimes the air coming out of these convector air valves seems to surge then back off, and then surge again. Is this normal? The convectors closer to the boiler (but on the same floor) do not seem to do this.
SteamMan, I think I would prefer to tackle taking apart old pipe than attempt the volume of air in the pipe equation...
Posted by: pig three at October 26, 2009 10:40 PM in response to Add an Air Vent? Round Two...
...like I said eman. The replacements heat quicker and more efficiently. And they look better.
r e a d i n g c o m p r e h e n s i o n.
Thanks again.
Posted by: pig three at October 26, 2009 9:30 PM in response to Add an Air Vent? Round Two...
The existing radiators were a mixed bag. Not sure they were the correct size for the house to begin with. I have gutted the house and have made larger open spaces throughout. Have seen the Arco cast iron convectors from the 30's/40's? left exposed in commercial spaces and lofts in tribecca. Fond of the look. Was able to salvage the ten that I need for about $20 each. All of the existing supply valves and air valves were leaking, shot, or cheap crap, so need to replace either way. With half the house finish, it already heats quicker and more evenly. I'm learning and trying to tweak the system. My post was what I thought was logical, but I was looking for a professional or someone with good knowledge of steam systems to second the idea or let me know if adding the vent just below a vented radiator could cause some other problems.
eman, why do you always start with the most negative end? and with all due respect MP, is eman you alter ego? Brother? maybe i'm crazy...
Thanks anyway.
Posted by: pig three at October 26, 2009 7:45 PM in response to Add an Air Vent? Round Two...
eman1234,
do you say it is a waste of money because there would be no benefit? The cost of the proper domestic steam fitting is roughly $8. Air valve roughly $15. Would take about 1.5 hours to complete the job. Drill and tap would be cheaper and quicker, but I prefer to do it the other way. So, if I obtain the benefit I'm looking for as stated in the OP, the $25 spent would be worth it to me.
Posted by: pig three at October 26, 2009 2:32 PM in response to Add Air Vent?
put a sub meter on his water line to document his actual usage compared to the whole. Done in small mixed use buildings for billing purposes. Easier to prove than photos...
Posted by: pig three at October 23, 2009 9:00 PM in response to Tenant Leaving Water On
tired of back peddling eman1234? Always with the fear, what gives? and please quit posting links on a topic that you found from Google!
Posted by: pig three at October 19, 2009 11:23 PM in response to ISO: Inexpensive gas furnace
Hi,
Did a ss liner myself servicing the boiler and water heater. Used Rockford. Seemed to have the best price on the proper gauge liner I needed. There is a good mason supply for fire bricks and refractory cement on 2nd ave and 13th or 15th. Sorry, cannot remember the name. It is on the corner. Looking to do my fireplaces and the little research on dampers resulted in a supply store on staten island. Have not been yet. There is a great book, the forgotten art of building good fireplaces.
Posted by: pig three at October 17, 2009 12:52 AM in response to Chimney and fireplaces
Hi,
Did a ss liner myself servicing the boiler and water heater. Used Rockford. Seemed to have the best price on the proper gauge liner I needed. There is a good mason supply for fire bricks and refractory cement on 2nd ave and 13th or 15th. Sorry, cannot remember the name. It is on the corner. Looking to do my fireplaces and the little research on dampers resulted in a supply store on staten island. Have not been yet. There is a great book, the forgotten art of building good fireplaces.
Posted by: pig three at October 17, 2009 12:52 AM in response to Chimney and fireplaces
The radiator that came with the house were never correct for the space. I have changed almost everything in the house. The heating system is about the only thing that worked (sort of). So a new heating system fell below new electric and plumbing(as far as budget). I really like lhe look of the old cast iron Arco convector radiators left exposed (similiar to a photo on your gallery page MP). I was able to salvage several from a tear down up in Larchmont. So, trying to have better heating in newly defined spaces with existing system (until I can afford MP to insall an amazing new one) and have radiators more in line with the style of the home. Additionally, the Arco radiators are cast iron but do heat faster and cool faster than the other traditional cast iron radiators I have. Your welcome to come over for a demo. Any info or advise appreciated.
Posted by: pig three at October 13, 2009 11:50 PM in response to Convector vs Standard
steamedup,
If you have any other of the Arco type pictured that you want to unload, please let me know.
Posted by: pig three at October 9, 2009 11:16 PM in response to EDR for Convector radiator?
modsquad,
thanks! I was having a bummer night until i read your response. hahahehe snort hahahehe.
loftydreams, Only a couple decades late on the idea. Maybe you could find a former Fire house??
Industrial building... 30% down, 25 to 30k for the environmental. If you can handle that, then the red tape starts.
Posted by: pig three at October 8, 2009 10:46 PM in response to Find Old-style Wburg Loft?
MP,
Do you service Bed-Stuy? More specifically Macon and Stuyvesant Ave area?
Thanks
Posted by: pig three at September 30, 2009 3:17 PM in response to Time to Think About Your Boiler Again
"looking to serve their own professional interests by attempting to diminish the qualifications of ..."
60designers, is that not what you just did with your post?
For the record, I have had experience with architects. Like others mentioned, very few have hands on knowledge. Fewer with original design skills.
Another thing I know for sure, if an architect is not necessary for the project and is removed from the total cost, the total cost will be significantly cheaper. Free consultation or not!
FWIW, I enjoy your honest straight forward approach with most of your post here on BS. Some other "professionals" like to instill fear in first timers or others looking for a little knowledge on a subject.
Posted by: pig three at September 28, 2009 2:11 PM in response to 1st Time Renovation Advice?
plus the post asked "where to start". Starting with an architect is the most expensive way to start and may not even be necessary.
Posted by: pig three at September 26, 2009 6:45 PM in response to 1st Time Renovation Advice?
sorry denton, without details he cannot be spot on. The whole project can probably take place without an architect. But without knowing the specifics, we do not know for sure.
Posted by: pig three at September 26, 2009 6:43 PM in response to 1st Time Renovation Advice?
Oh, and thanks pattunia! every where you look eman1234 is giving the most expensive, and often unnecessary advise.
Posted by: pig three at September 26, 2009 7:43 AM in response to 1st Time Renovation Advice?
some fixtures can be moved without an architect, legally! Start with figuring out what you want. Look at magazines, books... Have a sense of direction before you consult anyone.
Posted by: pig three at September 26, 2009 7:40 AM in response to 1st Time Renovation Advice?
eman1234,
thanks for sharing your personal experience. the suggestion was for the person who wrote the post. Not everyone is an idiot and full of fear. the tools needed could be rented for far less than $250. or, could be borrowed from a friendly neighbor for free. or, lots of contractors selling tools because of the economic downturn. might be why you are so bitter. your services not in high demand lately?
Btw, check these out.
http://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/1359139668.html
http://newyork.craigslist.org/brk/tls/1389873958.html
saw zall $40
pipe wrench $18
personal sense of accomplishment, ...priceless
Posted by: pig three at September 24, 2009 4:46 PM in response to Radiator Valve Rec?
It would only be financed by the stim bill if it involved union employees
Posted by: pig three at September 24, 2009 4:14 PM in response to Closing Bell: Burlesque in the Slope
Make two relief cuts near the base of the valve with a sawz all. Careful not to cut into the threads of the supply pipe. You also need a nice size pipe wrench. If you have two pipe wrenches and there is enough of the supply pipe exposed below the base of the valve, you can apply torque in the opposite direction to reduce the possibility of unscrewing the supply pipe. Usually not necessary unless recently installed. Take your wife on a date or buy yourself a beer (or some tools) with the savings.
Posted by: pig three at September 23, 2009 8:52 PM in response to Radiator Valve Rec?
bobjohn,
I had the same questions when i wanted to replace the windows on my 1880 brick. Ultimately it is not necessary, but depends on they type of windows you are installing. Weather brick or brownstone, the inner two layers of brick were a larger opening. This provided space for the counter weights that were used with original wood windows. Unless you are land marked or doing some historical restoration, they are not necessary. Wood expands and contracts with the change of weather more that steel or aluminum. Wood failure is the most common problem with windows. I removed all the wood framing and created a brick window box by making the whole window opening flush with the outermost layer. In the case of my house, brick. I installed the new windows directly to the brick. I filled the channels of the windows with a poly-foam insulation. Np-1 seal on the exterior. Been through a winter and summer with no problems. Surprisingly the window openings were level, plumb and square. I gained six inches in width. I did the work myself. I did not need a permit for my class of building.
Posted by: pig three at September 21, 2009 8:51 PM in response to Basement Windows in Brick Wall
ps.
I should also say I am not anti bike. Thinks they are great. Just anti obnoxious sense of entitlement that I see and hear from so many bikers.
Posted by: pig three at September 10, 2009 11:46 AM in response to Possible Perils of the Sands Street Bike Path
bfarwell,
You bring up some good points, but they don't stand alone.
The economic cycle of our city and country are just a little more complicated than your elementary model of A+B=C.
How long can city, state and the federal government continue to subsidize the pay role and pensions of the labor unions with tax dollars?
Bikers pay tax. What would be your estimate of the percentage of bikers tax dollars contributing to the overall cost of the bike lanes?
The city is not ticketing bikers for fineable infractions. No money for the city there. Less cars is good for all! Less income for the city there. Fewer tickets, fewer traffic agents. Layoffs? Unemployment?
Less crowed subways? Lower revenue for the MTA. Services cut? Layoffs?
Bikers make the demand that cars stay out of their bike lanes... why don't bikes stay out of car lanes?? Bikers say drivers are lazy and don't pay attention. Bikers do? Not all bikers are a holes... Are all drivers a holes?
As far as stats, lets pay attention to the Driver bias media and send each other the report on driver/biker related accidents. Keep tabs so to speak from this point on?
And...IMO if you really want to save the world - go buy an electric car (help lower tax dollars needed to keep the auto industry afloat), set up your bike so you can generate the electric need to charge your car (no additional drain on the overtaxed electric grid) Bonus (less of a need for nuclear power plants or fossil fuel run power plans). Drive to work (clean air... your exhales are recycled a bit in the car). Get some tickets (revenue for the city) Let them pile up and get towed. Take a taxi or subway to get your car out (revenue and tax, revenue and tax). Now there are fewer bikes. Less need for bike lanes. City uses union labor to change all the roads back. More jobs, more money, less tax subsidy.
Now I know my economic model is not spot on, but it is closer to reality than yours.
One more thing. I think you might be a poopie face?
"Because they're parked in my lane. Because a pedestrian steps out into the lane talking on the phone and not paying attention."
Me,me, me, My,my,my. Why are you so entitled?
Posted by: pig three at September 10, 2009 11:44 AM in response to Possible Perils of the Sands Street Bike Path
Oh yeah,
Has anyone figured out how many tax dollars were spent creating all these new bike lanes?
Just wondering.
Posted by: pig three at September 9, 2009 8:33 PM in response to Possible Perils of the Sands Street Bike Path
Randi,
Bikers may not kill drivers by their selfishness and disregard for the laws and rules of the road... Statistically, most bikers killed by drivers are killed by their own negligence.
Now the driver must live with the fact that they have killed someone. I bet they are real happy about it.
Perhaps they should sue that idiots estate for pain and suffering...
Cars have to live with a$$hol@ bikers. Only fair for bikers...
Posted by: pig three at September 9, 2009 8:26 PM in response to Possible Perils of the Sands Street Bike Path
howrealnyc,
Did you become a broker during the boom?
Posted by: pig three at August 31, 2009 10:49 PM in response to FSBO - Dealing with Buyer Broker
Everyone needs to do more research in regard to burning wood. It is less harmful, if used correctly, than natural gas and coal. I would build a wood fireplace instead of gas.
Posted by: pig three at August 13, 2009 5:20 PM in response to Outdoor Fireplaces?
"Bar Keepers Friend" works great on getting out rust stains on porcelain.
Posted by: pig three at August 12, 2009 6:57 PM in response to Re-Enameling Tub?
The old porcelain must be sandblasted off to the metal. New porcelain baked on for a proper restoration. Cannot be done at your house. Rough estimate is $1500. Don't think there is anyone doing this in the New York area. I think there is a place in Ohio. Also remember seeing an old post for someone selling one that had the porcelain redone on B'stoner. Search tub for sale. Remembering "porcelain industries"??? Not sure where they are.
Posted by: pig three at August 11, 2009 8:18 PM in response to Re-Enameling Tub?
There was a six family that was converted to condos last year that included freestanding wood burning stoves. All units sold quickly. Think it is legal. If the flu to be used is a straight run, could be a pretty simple job. DIY.
Posted by: pig three at July 21, 2009 10:25 PM in response to Woodburning Stove Installation
Where is the photo?
Posted by: pig three at July 13, 2009 5:58 PM in response to What kind of radiator is this?
Make sure you check and fully understand the future property tax on the building. There are some new condos in the SS that face a $2000.00 a month (not year) tax bill! The condo/tax topic has been mentioned on the blog in the past as well.
Posted by: pig three at July 6, 2009 8:02 AM in response to New Condos in South Slope
Chosen,
Never mind... just figured it out.
Posted by: pig three at July 1, 2009 10:33 PM in response to Empire Blvd now has just 1 lane
tlocane,
You might have the answer to this one... any idea how many tax dollars were spent creating all these bike lanes?
Posted by: pig three at July 1, 2009 10:26 PM in response to Empire Blvd now has just 1 lane
Chosen,
What is your profession? Curious because you are providing us with your "professional opinion".
Posted by: pig three at July 1, 2009 10:22 PM in response to Empire Blvd now has just 1 lane
Check out the June 15 post about the same topic and plumber
Posted by: pig three at July 1, 2009 8:38 PM in response to plumbing
How many gas meters and electric meters? DOB classification is not always correct. Taxation has no bearing.
Posted by: pig three at July 1, 2009 8:31 PM in response to Not a 3 family
Is there someone keeping stats on the car/bike/ped accident rate?
Posted by: pig three at June 30, 2009 10:31 PM in response to Empire Blvd now has just 1 lane
Smokychimp,
You are an architect. I have respect for your posts in the past and probably will continue into the future. Please describe how a property owner can general contract work to his/her property without a GC license or HIC license. I'm sure we can agree that is legal? I'm not attempting to advise how to have work done illegally. I'm pointing out it is possible to do work to your property in a legal manner without using someone who is licensed by the DCA. I'm sure we could also agree the many types of work can be legally done to a single family home without permits from the DOB. All the information is there for anyone willing to take the time. Peace to all.
Posted by: pig three at June 14, 2009 6:25 PM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs
Slick,
I'm do not dispute what you specifically wrote. A contract is a contract is a contract. No matter what, where, who... they all rely heavily on "the language" used. Deep pockets make the most enforceable contract almost impossible to enforce.
Posted by: pig three at June 14, 2009 3:18 PM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs
bugleg,
You drank the coolaid and/or are one of the ingredients. A business contract only need willing parties to sign an agreement. It happens every day without DCA and is perfectly legal. Answer this question. Can someone obtain liability insurance for doing say sheetrock work and painting? The answer is yes. Do they need a license from the DCA to get that coverage? No. humm..? The DOB is the only one that matters when a home owner want to do work on their home. The DCA only provides information for someone who does not know where to begin when looking to hire someone to do work. I think there is more than one puzzle. Your puzzle just has big and few pieces. Some people prefer the more advanced models.
Posted by: pig three at June 14, 2009 2:00 PM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs
Denton,
I think the confusion here was what the DCA was trying to achieve. If you have anyone doing work for you other than electrical or plumbing, they are an "artist" and work alone. You were never at risk of anything. Doing some cosmetic brick work does not require a permit. Also, since your house's intended use is a one family, there is a world of work that "you" can perform without permits that would be required of a multi-family.
Posted by: pig three at June 14, 2009 12:57 PM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs
Let me say this - language is the key when navigating any bureaucracy. Look at the recent post to fighting a Dept of Sanitation summons. Or, since this post originated from Denton, look at his comment on the "open staircase" issue that keeps coming up on this form. Circumstances and key variables all play a role. Denton's open stairs were signed off as acceptable by an inspector because, although recognized by the DOB as a legal two family, his intended use and layout of his house is a one family. Stairs perfectly legal. Not legal if they were in a common hall used by a tenant. Denton's post here was about the DCA and how the person came to do the work for him. Not a business soliciting themselves to do work. If the DCA had a legal leg or any sort of authority over a home owner, they would not have to pretend to be someone looking for a contractor. Language is key. The inspector said "as long as your happy and not paying". Only half correct. The grey area here is the truck present with the business name on the side. In the course of doing work on one's house, as a home owner you can be the general contractor. You do not, by law, have to have a GC license. When obtaining a permit you do not need to submit a license. Again, with the exception of electrical and plumbing, you can hire anyone else to do all of the other work. There are insurance and liability issues involved, but that is another post. I'll address the IRS and architect comment shortly. Skipping ahead to the hiring of someone to build say a brick wall. Not once are you ever required to contact, consult or apply for anything from the DCA. Let's say my neighbor is a brick mason. I see him build a brick wall. I ask him to build my brick wall. We strike a deal. If the wall is a load bearing wall, an inspector from the DOB, repeat, DOB will inspect at the appropriate time. He could care less who built the wall as long as it complies with code. Now, you could hire someone without a license to GC your job for you. Here again, language is key. When dealing with the DOB, they are not the GC but the owners representative. Same insurance and liability issues apply. Now about the IRS. Comparing the IRS to the DCA is like comparing the Police with Traffic agents. But since is was brought up by bugleg, I will respond. Everyone has to pay taxes. Who prepares your tax return and how much you have to pay is a different story. Does a CPA, by law, have to prepare your return? No. If you use a CPA to prepare your taxes is there a guarantee that they will be done correctly and so you pay as few taxes as legally possible? No. Depending on language used, a specific deduction might be acceptable in some cases and not in others. So, the IRS had no relevance to this post. But it provided a good lead into the architect comment. Any person with reading comprehension skills and computer skill can design and prepare architectural drawings. So, in some cases, your average high school student. An engineer could consult or review the plans and provide the appropriate seal. Fee involved of course. So, if you think that an architect is required by law to do everything involved with home renovation, then yes you are a rube. For those who want to, by law, there is a choice. All the answers are at the DOB. Language is the key. Don't be afraid. Lastly, If you are looking to hire someone to do work for you, you are never required to consult the DCA. You may choose to, but it is a choice. And, someone licensed by the DCA does not guarantee that they will do quality work. There is no inspection or regulation of the work itself. They only provide a place to make a complaint. Their main concern is that business with employees are paying the appropriate amount to the workman comp insurance fund, that employees or owners of business are paying child support if owed, and protecting the consumer from fraud. In that order and that is it.
Posted by: pig three at June 14, 2009 12:34 PM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs
eman1234,
What am I wrong about? Please be more specific.
Here is what the DCA's priorities are:
1. That businesses that have employees are paying into the workman's comp fund.
2. That those employees are paying child support if any is owed
3. Protecting the public from fraud
Period. In that order.
They do not regulate work, quality of work or have any say over who gets hired to do the work.
...but someone told me, so it must be true...
Posted by: pig three at June 14, 2009 8:18 AM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs
Wrong. Show me the law. Go to the DOB. ASK. DCA has no authority over who you hire. I can have an artisan come do a home renovation of several thing that do not require a City permit and could easily run a 100k. No license required. I could have my friend change my windows on my single family. No permit required. No license required. Really. Trades are not required by law to be regulated by the DCA. Lemming.
Posted by: pig three at June 13, 2009 9:26 PM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs
According to who??? ParkslopePS. Once again, it is not required by law. Do your research. The Dept of consumer affairs issues the contractors licenses. The DOB suggests everyone use a licensed contractors to protect them against fraud. Licenses are required by law for regulated work... plumbing and electrical.
Posted by: pig three at June 13, 2009 7:36 PM in response to Visit from Consumer Affairs
Responses to Author's Forum Comments
CG, the scuttle shouldn't be padlocked because it is a alternate way to the roof if the Dirtbags house is on fire. They didn't leave you paperwork because it is a pain in the !@# for everyone involved. The Bloomberg Admin. see's fire inspections and fines as an untapped revenue stream, people get your homes in order.
Posted by: Grumpy at November 10, 2009 11:46 AM in response to Fire Dept Inspection
After the fatal fire in Queens this weekend, the fire prevention group went out looking for more illegal apartments. If you live in a basement apartment, there must be a secondary means of egress and the windows must be openable a certain distance above ground. If the apartment doesn't meet code, you will be vacated. People get hostile when that happens, but it's better than burning to death.
Posted by: oshma at November 10, 2009 11:47 AM in response to Fire Dept Inspection
Two means of egress, the definition of basement is 50% of the space must be above curb level. Otherwise it is a cellar. But even if you meet the above criteria that doesn't mean you are in a legal inhabitable space. There are zoning regs, certificates of occupancy and other rules.
Posted by: Grumpy at November 10, 2009 12:16 PM in response to Fire Dept Inspection
The FD has the local firehouse doing inspections and civilian inspectors, the civilian inspectors are stricter then the firemen, they will write a summons. The firemen are looking for things that will endanger their lives and yours. Imagine them crawling around your,hot smoke filled hallway and apt. looking for your unconscious body. They don't want to get hung up on the bike in the hall, fall through the missing step on the fire escape. They want to be able to vent the hallway of the toxic smoke by gaining access to the roof and opening the scuttle, bulkhead door or hallway skylight.
Posted by: Grumpy at November 10, 2009 12:31 PM in response to Fire Dept Inspection
I've used my shop vac for this kind of thing with HEPA filter, and vacuum bag. Plus I wear a lead paint/asbestos level respirator, cover my hair, wash all clothes worn immediately after, etc, and shower right away. Depending on the way your apt is configured, it might be possible to get an extension for the hose on your vac and have the vac itself outside so that the exhaust isn't blowing the paint dust around inside.
Another option, depending on how much dust there is, is to get the dust wet/damp and clean it up with wet rags/towels/paper towels, which would then be thrown away. That might be simpler and stir up less dust. The respirator & protective clothing & washing would have to be done still.
Posted by: BHS at November 10, 2009 1:45 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?
You are better off buying a HEPA vaccuum. they run anywhere from $600 and up. Wouldn't be a bad idea finding a good used one from a lead abatement contractor who got out of the business.
Lead dust is super dangerous, more dangerous than the chips of paint. Most contractors do not use proper methods for demo, cleanup, sanding etc. I would advise people on this forum who use contractors ( especially the cheap, fast good ones-- do they exist ? ) if they know how to work with lead paint. I guarantee you most do not, yet they are working all over Brooklyn and putting people in harms way with their methods.
Posted by: Springs at November 10, 2009 1:52 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?
I'd like to add that no matter which kind of vacuum etc you choose for getting rid of most of the dust, you should get some microfiber towels (I got a bunch from solventfreepaint.com) and dust everything with a damp microfiber cloth. Then go back over everything a week or so later after any remaining dust has settled. Make sure you get the tops of door trim, tops of shelves, etc.
Posted by: BHS at November 10, 2009 2:00 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?
So then where can you rent a real HEPA vacuum? $600 is a lot.
Also, if the above is true, then every apartment I've ever lived in has lead dust all over the place. At my last coop, they were fixing leaks and creating plaster dust every day.
Posted by: mopar at November 10, 2009 7:55 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?
I bought a great little HEPA vacuum at an asbestos remediation supply house in greenpoint for $400. Great little vac, we use it for everything.
Posted by: cottontop at November 10, 2009 9:37 PM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?
http://www.health.state.ny.us/environmental/lead/leadbroc.htm
Posted by: Springs at November 11, 2009 1:12 AM in response to HEPA Vacuum Rental?

love it, Denton!
Posted by: pig three at November 20, 2009 7:33 PM in response to severe dammage by tenants